This is Jim's blog entry that contains "airbrushing acrylics." http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/blog.php?b=340 This is an excellent tutorial. The only item I would like to comment on is when using enamels (Floquil, etc) on plastics. Jim says "I gave the shell a few light passes and left it in my workshop for 24 hours to cure. This is important! Floquil enamels will "Dry" in 10 minutes or so, but they require 24 hours to "Cure". If you rush and spray other coats over the enamel during its cure time, you may get bubbles in your finish. You can't see it, but when an enamel cures, it develops a skin, the skin is microscopically porous and alows the solvents to escape and evaporate. After a minimum of 24 hours you can go onto the next step." I have found that enamels on some plastics require much longer curing time. As much as a week to 10 days in some cases. I use the "sniff" test. If it still smells like the enamel I figure it isn't cured. Some plastics even feel softer during the curing time although the present day Floquils indicate they are safe for plastic. I primed two plastic items two days ago using Floquil primer. This morning they still had the enamel odor so I plan to hold off painting until the odor is completely gone to be certain that the Floquil is cured. If this is "overkill" I'd rather it be than to have to strip and start over. Ben
Wow, I just had this problem yesterday with Polly S Scale clumping when this thinner was used. I thought I was going crazy. Blue windshield washer fluid huh... Works for me, I will give it a try.
Chris: I always use blue windshield wiper solution. I especially like to use it in washes for weathering. It has a small amount of alcohol in it.
Acrylic versus solvent I don't want to hijack the thread, but maybe we can bend it for a post or two. Basically, this thread talks about how to spray acrylics for best results. And pix of your works show great skills and tremendous results. But sounds like acrylics require lots of tricks - mixing distilled water with alcohol, tweaking with alcohol, compensating with different PSIs... Does anyone beside me still use Floquil? I know that Diosol is getting harder to get, will kill you if you don't use it right, etc. Anyone like Floquil? Scott
I only use acrylics; I was never successful with Floquil. I don't really change acrylic formulations once I find what works for me. I disagree with some of the acrylic techniques in this thread, but I think my differences are personal and a result of my basement, spraying conditions, equipment used, etc. As for others I know who like Floquil, one person says that acrylics are junk and never should be used by real modelers. Sort of harsh, I think. Of course, he has never tried acrylics, so...? For the MMRs (Master Model Railroaders - see NMRA website) in my club, all of them use Floquil but one. They are comfortable with it and it does a good job for them. They, too, have not tried acrylics and see no need to try them as long as Floquil is working. Seems reasonable to me. I certainly have no idea how many modelers perfer one or the other. I didn't know that diosol was hard to obtain.
Floquil and Diosol thinner I should correct myself: I can't find anyone who will sell me a gallon, quart or pint of Diosol as in years past - mail order or my LHS, which has to order just about anything. I assume this is because of changing restrictions on the transport of hazardous materials. It seems that a one-ounce bottle is about all you can buy, and the price is rediculous - what I used to pay for a pint. I agree with what I think flash is saying - there are guys who do terrific work with acrylics, others with Floquil. It's probably just a matter of the materials and tools you've been using for years. Scott
Fix it! Well yeah! Several posters within this thread say they've experienced clumping paint. Wouldn't it be reasonable for the vendor to fix his product? I know - 'buyer beware' - but should it be necessary to experiment with BWWS ("summer blend", "winter blend"), ammonia, and alcohol? Scott
I guess I need to hold on to my quart of diosol and not use it for anything but thinning the floquil enamel I have left. I don't have any problems with Floquil, I just don't like the smell. I thought I was the only one using the stuff, so I figured I would try the acrylics. Actually, they sprayed pretty well.
BWWF= blue windshield washer fluid, what everyone recommends to thin polly s scale acrylics and model flex too i guess.
Do you thin the blue windshield wiper fluid to its windshield worthy strength first, or do you use it full strength? I am keenly interested since I am about to shoot a couple locos with PollyScale paints using my Badger 155 Anthem airbrush. Thanks, Adam
I use it full strength. (One gallon is 99 cents at Walmart.) I don't know if the mixture varies by region.
You just answered my question right there. I didn't know if it was the premix 1 gallon kind or the stuff you're supposed to mix up yourself that usually comes in smaller bottles. I will try that on a test piece first. Thanks, Adam
I mix 2/3 paint 1/3 bwwf thinner today, and I worked ok. A little thin for me so I might thin a little less next time.
Adam, good idea on the test piece(s). You might also ask Powersteamguy Bob for any tips - he's painted and published several nice locos and was very helpful to me. Scott
