Has anyone removed the metal tab bar that runs between the points? I am DCC and trying to make the switch better. Here is what I have done so far. I cut the frog with my motor tool (to isolate it on both ends) now I just need to figure out how to make the section between the points and the frog come alive. Has anyone tried to remove the metal bars and glue them using ACC back to the original throwbar?
Yes, I have. In fact, there was a recent article in Model Railroader or RMC that discribed how to make the Walthers switch "DCC friendly". Try and find the article but here is what I did. First I drilled out the rivets at the pivot and the one attached to the throw bar so that the points can be removed. Remove the metal tabs at the points and the jumper under the pivot. The jumper under the pivot can be cut if you don't want to try to extract it. Then I unsoldered the metal pieces between the two point rails. To reinstall the switch, I then soldered 1/2 of a rail joiner on each rail. Diverging from the magazine article, I soldered a length of fine wire to each rail and inserted it through a hole in the roadbed. I didn't use a jumper between the frog rails and the point rails as the magazine article did. I just couldn't get it to flex when I tried it. Then you will need a PC board rr tie. Insert for switch throw and solder each of the point rails to it. Drill a hole for your switch machine and you are done. It takes practice and patience to accomplish. It is also easier to do before installation but I did mine while they were already installed. If you have any questions about what I said please post again. David
