Hi, My whole layout IS my programing track as I only have now 3 DCC locos. When I " use Program track " I merely remove the other two from tracks. But, is it OK to have one or both remain on rails by running them past power-routing switches and flip switch points to isolate them ? In this situation only one rail is cold. Is this adequate to keep them from being accidently reprogramed when I program the other ?
that would work but as yoho said, I wouldn't trust myself on that. I always use program on the main with my NCE powercab. Keeps the other engines running and I can immediately test my programming.
I agree, if the locos are sound, and you know they go silent immediately when you throw the turnouts throwbars, then they won't get reprogrammed. However, there is a high likelihood you'll forget something one time and you'll have at least one other loco whose settings you need to restore. What I did was to simply isolate on small stretch of track by powering the layout through a DPST. In my case, I kept a diner car set-out track at my depot, literally eight inches from my belly-button at the front of the yard section, isolated from the turnout to the bumper. It's power comes off the input terminals on the DPST. The outputs from my DCC system go around the same terminals, naturally, and the outputs of the switch go to the 'rest-of-the-layout'. When the switch powers everything, the toggle is thrown one way. If I want to stop power to the rest of the layout, but keep my 'programming track' powered, I merely have to throw the toggle. That way, I can used Paged Mode to programme an address, which Digitrax says is the preferred way. From there, I flip the toggle and can drive the newly addressed loco out onto the layout across the gap at the turnout.
I program on the main with a Digitrax Empire builder. I usually either remove the other locos or make sure they are in an engine service area so I can isolate them with DPST toggles and the tracks there are double gapped. Sometimes you may forget as I did and then had 25 locos all with the same address. I would isolate a section of track with a DPDT toggle switch powering it from the DCC buss to shut down the main line with the exception of the programming track, making sure the section is gapped on both rails.
Thanks for assurance on this ! With 3 locos It's no biggie if I do forget . But as I finally got the chuff rates 98% correct and very nice roll-off (CV 117 is a big factor with this.. Adding 150+ to it makes loco REALLY 'dig in' and creep. More so it seems to remove those pesky 2 silent 360% driver revs at roll-off (SS 1 or 2). Also, through this and CVs 209, 210, 212 + Ballistic tracking rate at 6 or 7 my steam seem to 'feel' really heavy trying to get over inertia. I will soon write ALL these values down in case I do screw one up ! Problem I have with ' Prog. on the Main ' is not being able to read values we are wanting to alter. Also, (NCE/3 Bachs) many times don't even take when I do use POM. I know because, just for the halibut I'll use POM, stop engine and do read value using 'use Prog. Trk'. and same CV has in fact not changed. The worst of this is CV116 (chuff rate) doesn't change as should, so as to be able to match rate whilst moving..I always have to guestimate change using 'UPT' (loco stopped now), then throttle up again to see if it now looks good. Get me ?.... Thanks, Mark
The only time that you need a programming track is when you change the address of a Locomotive. Most DCC systems (the good ones) allow you to adjust CV values on the main (ops mode). Since you are doing it on a loco that has already had an address change any CV changes will only will only go to the loco you are adjusting CV's on, as long as your system allows for the Ops mode programming. I adjust the chuff rate on my loco with it moving as the change begins as soon as I press the enter button (Digitrax DT 400r). Use a pencil and paper to write down your CV values and the changes you make. Maybe you have to enable the programming on the main feature or your system does not really allow it.
Well, unless we misunderstand one another I am saying that on mine (NCE/2 Bach Tsunami steam, 1 Bach Tsunami RS3) I don't seem to be able TO change chuff rate (116) whilst rolling via POM. It doesn't take. So I have to stop to change rate ! I'll give it another trial to make sure I AM correct...and if I'm wrong or right I'll report back...Thanks, Mark
No misunderstanding here. I can adjust CV values in OP's mode while the loco's are moving. Chuff rate, Chuff volume, speed CV's can all be adjusted while in motion. Is that the only loco that you are having problems with?
I only ever adjust chuff rate, and I own several different makes and variations of sound decoders, on the fly. That's the only reasonable way to see if your smallest adjustments work to synchronize the effect for the most part. Note that a cold locomotive that has not moved in several hours will have a chuff rate slightly off. It should return to your synchrony as it warms up.
Thanks once more Crandell . You've been very helpful. Forgot to retry 116/POM yesterday to see if I am incorrect about it not 'taking' unless stopped or in UPT, also stopped (of course)...Funny, looking back about 2-3 years ago during first experiences with my new PowerCab I couldn't make head nor tail of the manual and all the different levels of programing in the throttle or what they meant. One very early horror for me was not knowing I'd deleted engine address (like 1908) and having engine then not budge until I called it 3 again ! This took a LONG time to sink in (months) !! Now I see others going through this "My engine just stopped and won't roll !!". I know so much now and never panic any longer. Nothing is gonna fry or melt from a bogus programming , another initial fear I (we) have. I will say though, I can't speak for other makes, but NCE does seem a tad too delicately built.. The throttle wheels get faulty on both PCab and O6 type cabs. Plus I'd liked to have seen them built with aluminum casings, not (I think) styrene and have main screws run entirely through using a nut and bolt. I've stripped 3-4 plastic stanchions and thus have blue duct tape across bottom from front to back...Mark
