Use of foam on layouts

I'm getting real close to starting an N-scale layout, and was about to go out and buy the lumber for the benchwork. Then I started to read through some threads about using foam. Some suggest that the foam be put on top of the benchwork, while others suggest that it be incorporated as part of benchwork. But most agree that it's great to work with. So now I'm putting on the brakes to investigate this further.

I have seen the new riser system, and scenic ridge, but don't have the $$$ to invest in those systems. But many are suggesting the use of foam that is utlized in building materials. Where can I go to find more information on using foam in a layout? Has anyone used foam and how?

Thanks from someone who doesn't want to delay too much longer, but also wants to do it right.

 

Some don't like the foam with powered turnouts as the switch machine isn't held as strongly as with wood. Others will slot the area and put wood in part of the foam ( a small square or rectangle of wood) to more securely hold the switch machine.

With the risers of Woodland Scenic, if they get too high and you want an electrical turnout, they can be a challenge for the switch machine.... height problems. Imagine foam on the bottom, then 4 or 5 inches of rise... a long way for secure switch machines to throw the turnout. Many prefer shorter reaches for their switch machines.

 

I have used foam for most of the layouts I have done. For one reason or another it has always been 1" thick. I have put an entire sheet of foam onto plywood, also onto a door, and currently have 1'x4' frames of 2"x3" lumber.

My experiences have been positive, make sure you use latex based adhesives, like liquid nails for projects.

I found that the easiest way to make grades was cookie cutter with the plywood under the foam. This method also "wasted" a lot of foam as I put a full layer of foam down then cut the rises. You can laminate layers of foam then cut grades into them with surform tools.

For making landforms foam is good, I do not use a hot cutter, but prefer to use surform and knives to shape it. The obvious negative is the mess. It is easy to shape the land contours.

When laminating layers I use a few drywall screws thru the top layer and into the second layer. This makes the foam a lot less fidgety. Once dry, I remove the screws and add layers as required.

I used cork roadbed glued to the foam with elmers yellow glue, which holds fairly well.

Good luck

kirk

 

re: Mounting switches with foam - Peco switch machines mount to, and underneath, the turnout itelf. Just cut a cavity in the foam for it to fit into!

re: Grades - Is anyone familiar with the "spline" method of making grades. An equivalent way using foam would be to cut the profile out of foam. Use foam thick enough to secure the roadbed to on its edge.

 

I built my new self layout using blue Dow Board, as it is called in my area, western OK. One thing I have noticed is that the liquid nails works real well with it. I made a hot wire cutter from plans in an old Model Railroader, but used a battery adapter instead of a soldering unit. Works good, makes mucho smoke and stink! Windows open, fumes toxic, I understand.
I do a flatland railroad so I can't help with the grades problems, and I opted to use push-pull fascia turnout throws with my new walk-around throttle.
I also use a lot of weight on a piece of foam while it is sticking-my favorite is an alternating haystack block of 4 firebricks per , oh 2 square feet or so. Let it set 24 hours, no matter the instructions on the tube.
I also cut small blocks of foam board and glue inside the bases of my structures and pin them down with dowel rod, rather than gluing them. Makes moving them a lot easier.
Most fo these ideas are from mags I have read or here, or other sources, so no attempt at original ideas.
And, oh, yeah. Don't do the bonehead thing I did the first time and forget to peel the plastic film off the foam before you try to glue it down-it's on both sides!

Foam it on!

[ 16 February 2002, 06:54: Message edited by: Graphite ]

 

I have used foamboard on my layout for the past several years now, and find it very easy to work with. I use LIQUID NAILS for adhesive between foam pieces. Make sure that you use LATEX BASE ONLY, the PETROLEUM BASED type will eat foamboard up, sort of a chemical meltdown. This is not pretty, and makes one @%&$"* of a mess! Take my word on this!!
As for the type of foamboard, I use any type I can get my hands on. The white beaded type does fine as filler for building up areas, the pink and blue types seem to be a little better for carving out streams, roadbed, gullies, etc. I use a sharp knife, and Stanley Sureform tool for minor shaping and carving. For other carving I use a HOT WIRE CUTTING TOOL from WOODLAND SCENICS. I fixed up my own power supply to run the tool, instead of using the batery power that comes with the tool.
There have been many articles written about covering foamboard with scenery base. Check out MODEL RAILROADER, RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN, N-SCALE magazines. It is very simple to do, even I can do it and make it look good. There are also several "HOW TO" books on the market, check the local hobby shop for these.
I am thrifty(read CHEAP) and don't go to HOME DEPOT to buy my foamboard. Too many places throw away the white beadboard and are usually happy to let you take all the foamboard packing you want. Another place to get the pink/blue foamboard is at a local building site. The builders will just throw 1/2 sheets and small pieces on the ground. Go to the FOREMAN and ask if you can have any excess pieces on the ground. I usually offer to pick up the jobsite in exchange for foamboard pieces. Do this on the weekend when the construction crews aren't working , so that you are not in the worker's way. While you are there check out the dumpster, you would not believe how much good wood gets thrown away!

'Nuff Said

 

Here's something to keep in mind. don't keep your layout in direct sunlight or heat source, such as heat register, because it wiil deform the foamboard and just about ruin the layout.

 

It sure would Hemi.

You can use a stack of foam with the FRAME of your hot wire resting on two strips of 1x4 or 1x2. Let these strips extend beyond the foam at each end.

(You can use metal strips, but they will act like a heat sink if the wire touches them.)

Clamp another wood block on top across the two "grade" strips to hold them square and level at that end. Place another at the other end.

Clamp the foam between the "grade" strips, at the desired angle, then tighten the clamps at each end to hold the strips square.

Slide the hot wire tool along the top of the wood strips, to cut through.

A word of CAUTION HERE!!!

Working in a closed room for a few days probably wont hurt you too much, but mixed plastics like body putty, Liquid nails, Polyurethane, epoxy, styrenes, and some paints, for prolonged times can be harmful. If you have any kind of asthma, or respratory problems, DO NOT DO IT!

DO THIS WORK OUTSIDE, IT IS DEADLY TOXIC FUMES.

You are breathing polyisocyanate which is the catylist for polyurethane and styrene foams, that is a derivative of cyanide!

I worked with this several years back when we did not know it could kill you, and now I am sensitized to it and can no longer be around curing plastics, or hot wire type operations.

Today, I use micro-planers (razor-blade planes)and knives to work my foams. It is harder, and slower, but much safer.

DO NOT USE A HOTWIRE AROUND CHILDREN, ESPECIALLY BABIES IN CLOSED ROOMS, EVEN WITH THE AIRCONDITIONER GOING.!

DO NOT SMOKE, EAT, OR CHEW GUM, WHILE WORKING WITH POURED, OR MELTING PLATICS!

THE BODY ABSORBS THE TOXINS AND IT IS ACCUMULATIVE!

Call your doctor and ask him! If you smell or breathe the fumes too long, the symptoms are like a really bad case of the flu, but can last 8 weeks in bed wishing you were dead, and some have died eventually from suffocation!

I almost did, and will be on medication the rest of my life!

 

I'm trying the Woodland Scenics foam system for a small, N-scale shelf layout and am happy with how it's going so far.

I have posted progress photos on this forum, but they are split up and some of the photo links have been broken.

Check here instead for a look at what I've done with foam so far:

PWR Progress Photos

 

There is a lazy way to do grades which I use, but it will up your grade desired about .o1, certainly liveable. A lenght calculation is the grade into 100 inches... so a 3 percent grade is 3 inches up for every 100 inches. But doing that calculation is too much work.

The lazy method is to say 3 inches up for every 8 feet (96 inches). This is the calculation I use. So its going to be out, but only slightly.
So doing your calculation of a three percent grade rising 4 inches.

first three inches = 8 feet
last inch is 96 inches (8 feet) divided by 3 which is 32 inches
so final answer is 8 feet and 32 inches. Close enough for government work.