I started a build with this name a couple years ago (where does the time go??) and didn't get too far before as I decided to build a test track and got involved in way too much 3D print designing and other projects. I took a hard look at the direction I was going at my age it was not going to ever be anywhere near finished and I didn't like where I was building it in an extra area of the shop that is depressing to be in. I've finally started the benchwork today for a new layout in a better location so thought I would start this build thread anew. Above is my current idea for a track plan that I've been working on for some time. Again I might never get this finished but feel better about getting it at least far enough along to run trains over the main line. There is a lower level that will consist of a large yard and engine facility along with a passenger station and a few industries on one side of the layout (top above). A train leaving that area in one direction ( East )would enter a hidden staging area (right side).Leaving in the other direction ( West ) the train would enter a tunnel and proceed via an elevator track section (more on it in a minute) to an upper level of tracks. It would then proceed around the upper level tracks. There would be long scenic sections and a couple industrial areas. It would end up back at the track elevator section. The elevator would take the train back down to the lower level where it could continue on to the hidden staging area on the right or if it is an empty coal train proceed to the coal mine. At the coal mine the empty train would appear to go into the coal mine loading area and disappear to the hidden staging area. At the same time a duplicate train with loaded coal cars would emerge from the coal mine and head back eastward on the main line. Hopefully the illusion would be a train being loaded with coal at the mine. More about that concept ( HERE ). The elevator track in the lower left above will move a train up to 10 feet long between the lower level tracks and the upper level tracks that will be 10-12 inches above the lower level. The upper level is shown in blue above. Depending on the finished terrain height there might be a divider between the two long stretches of blue upper level tracks to block one's view between the two sides of the layout or maybe the terrain in that area will accomplish that. It will be possible to have continuous running on either the lower level or the upper level or maybe even between them depending on if I can automate the elevator section of track. At first I'd considered a helix to accomplish this but then decide to try going this route. If this works it will save about 50 feet of track and the time it would take the train to move from the lower level to the upper level on the 50 feet of track. One negative I've read from those who use a helix is the long wait for a train to travel the helix between levels. The plan is that the train would enter the elevator section from either direction. If the elevator isn't going to be raised or lowered on either level the train wouldn't enter the oval on the elevator but would continue on around the bottom side of the elevator and stay or either the lower or upper level as if there was no elevator. If the train was going to move between levels it would enter the elevator and one of the turnouts would be thrown and the train would enter the oval on the elevator. Before it reached the opposing turnout it would stop. Then the elevator would rise or descend to the other level. The elevator could hold a train up to 10 feet in length. I'll cover the elevator in more detail when I actually start to build it. The following images do show how I hope it will work. ..... The link to the menu for the layout build is on my site is here .... https://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/UP Canyon Division/UP Canyon Division-Index.html Sumner
Sumner, if anybody can pull this off, you can! I'd probably chicken out, and use a helix. It seems like we usually complain about trains not having enough runtime between destinations on our small layouts, so we add laps anyway.
--- Layout Framework Planning & Using Intermediate Frame Supports --- The next image shows the 'kind-of-what-will-be' track plan. The image top right above is the upper level over the hidden staging. The rest of the upper level is shown to the left. What is show is basically what will be there but changes will be/have already been drawn-up on newer track plans. I won't post them all as I'm sure they will change even when laying track. Above is/was my plans for the framework. More pictures of the build will follow (as I write this the far right end is pretty much finished. I want to use inexpensive and simple to install and control servos in some areas and my 'Gravity Switchers' in other areas. They both need about 2 inches of clearance under the layout. A common problem is having one's framing in the way at times. I hope to get around this as all of the framework shown above will be a minimum of 3 inches below the layout everywhere. The framework is a grid as shown above. I can attach upright supports on any member of that grid. A large area, the yard, the near side and the staging will all be the same elevation. It will consist of risers place anywhere on the framework grid supporting 1/2” plywood with 1” of ridge foam board on top of it 3 inches above the framework. If I have a riser where I want a servo the riser will just be removed and re-positioned away from the servo or gravity switcher. I had to set one part of the layout in slightly to have room to walk around one of the car hoist posts shown above on the left side of the image. Unless a car is on the lift (rarely) I can walk around the left side of that post but still wanted the option of being able to walk around the right side and didn't want the layout right up against it. I mocked the layup in the area of the post so I could come up with the measurements for the plans for the layout and the framework. The view above is of the area as seen when you walk in from the street side of the shop. Next I taped the layout's outline on the floor. The right side might seem tight but I'll be about the only one walking around the layout and I've had less than the 24 inches for all the years I had the race car build in this area so 24” seems huge to me now. On the next page we will start with the framework build. A link to the build on my site.... https://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/UP%20Canyon%20Division/UP%20Canyon%20Division-Index.html Sumner
--- Build Framework Part 1 --- Part 1 of building the framework is the main cross-members/supports for the layout. I kept the cost down on these by using 1/2” CDX (rough framing plywood) and 1 X 2's. By cutting multiple pieces at the same time with the table saw and radial arm saw I was able to put these together in about an hour each. I built two to begin with to make sure I liked them. They came out quite strong and rigid so I proceeded on (see next page).The pictures should pretty much tell the story here. . . . . . . . . . To be continued....... As usual you can find the complete build here.... https://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/UP Canyon Division/UP Canyon Division-Index.html Sumner
Just put up a video of progress on the layout's framework... Didn't work on it today as I was working on final design work for the track elevator. Worked a couple hours the last 3 days to get it half done, about 8 hours total I'd guess. I never can put in a real 8 hours anymore. Since a lot of it is repetitious I was able to mass produce most of the members and then screw them together. I'll finish one more section maybe tomorrow but then will have to wait on the last one until I build the track elevator and test it out since it will go in part of the last section. I'll try and get some still images up tomorrow of what was done in the video, Sumner
--- Build Framework Part 2 --- NOTE: I'll post this on multiple pages. We are all familiar with using risers on a layout for tracks on a grade or those at a higher elevation than the layout's base elevation. Usually the layout's main elevation is plywood, plywood and foam or another base that is set on the layout's frame work. Here the framework is a grid where risers/uprights can be attached to it at about any point. My goal is that all of the main elevation of the layout will be held up by risers a minimum of 3 inches above this framework. This will allow switch machines, wiring or anything else that is less that three inches in depth to be place any place on the layout without fear that there is framework under it in the way. If you place something where there is a riser/upright under it put in a new riser nearby from under the layout and remove the one that is in the way. ============================================ The following pictures should pretty much tell the story. . . . . . . ( HERE ) is a link to the Craftsman drills that I love. Don't be fooled by the fact they are 12 volts. I've screwed the entire metal roof on my home with these and many other projects (thousands of screws) and they will run in 2 to 3 inch 'grabber' screws no problem. I usually pre-drill the screw holes with a 9/64” bit if I think the wood might split by putting the screw in directly. I still have the original three I bought. I have one to drill, another with a countersink bit in it if I need to do that and a final one with a driver bit in it to drive the screws home. This speeds up the work as I don't have to change bits all the time. I run the driver one on 'Low' and the other tow on 'High'. The batteries charge fast (20-30 minutes) and last a long time on a charge. I've since bought a couple others off of eBay ($30 to $40) for other uses (all worked fine) and had to buy a couple batteries finally also off of Amazon. They have worked as well as the originals. I like that the drills are small and I can get into tight places but they still have the power do do anything I've needed them for. Don't have my higher voltage drills any more as they all finally quit working or couldn't get batteries. I do occasionally still use a 3/8” and two 1/2” 110v powered drills I have. The Craftsman drills will take up to a 3/8” bit but you aren't going to probably want to drill through steel with that size bit but for woodwork they will do anything. . . I put up a YouTube video ( HERE ) showing the benchwork at this stage. To be continued....... Link to build index on my site ( HERE ). Sumner
Lot's of progress and a fine looking result. I've yet to construct a table for my next layout and watching this thread closely. Excellent explanations and engineering chops!
Are diagonal braces for the legs (both directions) planned? That's a lot of leverage on the leg joints when someone leans up against the edge of the layout.
Yes there will be diagonals in a number of places. I need to get it all built and squared up before they go in. For now it is fine and I'd climb on top of it but don't ask me to do it . I do want as few as possible to keep it easy to get underneath with.... .... my creeper. Sumner P.S. Right now the side to side rigidity is all that it needs to be and lengthwise one couldn't collapse it but I still want it a little more ridged in that directions also.
You could run a full-length diagonal brace along each axis through the middle, to keep out of your way. The decking should prevent any racking in the horizontal plane.
A little late . I got the next to last section in and a brace earlier today. I'll try and post pictures tomorrow. I won't go any further until I can see if I can get the track elevator built and working as it will go in the last section. I only have two more days I can work on it before being tied up on something else for about four weeks. Sumner
Build Framework Part 3 The following pictures should pretty much tell the story. . . . . . . . To be continued....... Link to the build index on my site ( HERE ). Sumner
Good bracing, as far as it goes, but it only holds that center post square to the top, and only in the long axis of the layout. That one center leg will skid on the floor as the rest of the unbraced frame flexes under lateral pressure. Lean on either end of the layout, and notice what happens... All of the bents will sway while that center post's foot slides back and forth the floor. Diagonal braces should span from the bottoms of the bents to the framework at the top of another bent. As you have demonstrated, the braces themselves need not be heavy. I can see how your construction is already pretty stiff in the short axis of the layout, with tall "headers" top and bottom. Now, if the bottom of that post is screwed to the floor so it cannot slide, that's a whole different structure that would resist flexing back and forth longitudinally.
If you need to maintain access to underneath with your creeper, can making L-shaped legs (adding a perpendicular frame member to the existing legs prevent that extra flex?
Guys thanks for the concerns but it isn't going anywhere believe me or come check it out . I can push on the end and if I push really hard the whole thing slides as a single unit. I can and have put my whole weight on different top members and it doesn't flex, tip or move. It is solid. I do have a little experience building as I designed and built 3 of my houses (including where the picture is taken above) and my commercial building. I also had two years of engineering classes before I wanted to ride my motorcycle more than going to class. I also did remodels and built additions for people for a few years. Sumner
