Under Table Switch Machines

Under Table Machines, Turtle and or Atlas.

Any one use the Atlas Under Table Switch Machines?? How are they vs. Turtle Switch Machines.

Jim.

 

The hardest trick with the atlas switch machines is installing them. The best way to install them is to center the points on the track and then center the pole on the switch machine. Masking tape works well here. Then, I put some heavy thick CA (it sets up in about 25 seconds) on the mounting area of the switch machine and hold it in the desired place. The 25 seconds gives me enough time to get it centered. After about 24 hours drying time I secure it a little better with the screws, but this last step isn't really necessary.

Some people like tortoise machines as they throw at prototypical speeds. The downside to this is that you sometimes some operator may have forgot to re-align the switches and you are barreling down on a switch against you. The tortoise may not be quick enough

 

What other switch machines are available? Is there a cost difference between Atlas and Tortoise? How do you wire switch machines up and what do you use as a power source?

I know nothing about them, but need to get 4 to 6. I guess I better learn quick!

 

I used the double selenoid type switch machines for years. I had Kemtron, PFM, and NJ ones. A few years ago I sold all of them and am very glad I did. I have gone completely to using the Tortoise.

It has several advantages over the selenoid.

1. You can't burn it up by holding a button down too long.

2. You can use a toggle switch with it to change its direction and the toggle switch will also show which direction it is thrown. No more guessing for switches you can't see.

3. Built in relays that work and don't get out of adjustment like the ones on the double action selenoid.

4. No need for a capacitor discharge system or a really big transformer to get the turnout to move.

5. Ease of installation. It has its own built on lever and fulcrum.

There is a cost advantage between Atlas and Tortoise but not between Tortoise and the NJ switchmachines.

To wire the double selenoid type requires 3 wires and 2 pushbuttons. You can use AC or DC power. If you want to operate more than one at a time or you need extra power, you will need either a large transformer or a capacitor discharge system. The latter also will prevent burning up your coils if you hold a pushbutton down too long.

To wire a Tortoise, there are several options that are covered in the instructions that come with the switchmachine. The Tortoise has a stall motor inside. To change the direction you change the polarity going to it. This means you run 2 wires to the switchmachine to a toggle switch. Depending on the wiring option you choose, the switch could be a DPDT or a SPDT.

If you are going to need a lot of Tortoise switchmachines you can save some money by buying them in six packs or twelve packs.

[ 07 June 2002, 15:43: Message edited by: ncng ]

 

i ust atlas utt machines also.i've had good luck with them so far although i have had to adjust them a little bit over a period of time.hard for me to spend a lot of time under the table so i use poster board putty.i put a couple bb size dabs on the machine and adjust it so the machines throw the points the way its suppose to.the putty is sticky and it will hold the machine to the plywood.you can put screws through the machine if you want to later.this method works pretty good for me.th in kansas..........

 

I have all Tortoise MOW-sheens on my layout. I have had good luck w/ them. Pricey, but worth it to me. I wire them using the Dig-Key slide on harness. That way, I can just put in the Turtle, wire the harness at my work bench (INSTEAD of under the table), and hook the whole shabang to a 6 pole terminal strip.

AS WITH ANY under the table turnout... most products work well if installed correctly. THE KEY IS to KNOW upfront where you are going to put those puppies and plan for thier installation when building the benchwork.

-Kitbash

[ 09 June 2002, 21:53: Message edited by: Kitbash ]

 

When we hand made switches (turnouts), we made a plexiglass jig to locate the rails position, and the operating solenoids for under table use as well as for on top of table.

A right hand switch was clamped to the plastic. We centered the points by wedging two tooth picks between the points and their companion rail.

Then we drilled 1/16" diameter holes through the plexiglass right in the corner beside the last tie, and next to the outside of the rail at each end on both sides. This would provide a locator for the joiners too.

We drilled a smaller hole (as needed) through the throw bar's hole and through the plexiglass, with the throw bar positioned 90 degrees to the straight rails.

Then we marked where the end of all 6 rails were, and trimmed the plexiglass to fit.

Then we placed the snap solenoid "motor" under the plexiglass and inserted the power arm up through the hole in the plexiglass and through the throw bar's hole.

Then we drilled those mounting holes with a "TAP" size drill bit.

The outline of the "motor" was traced on the plexiglass. Then we trimmed the plexiglass to fit that, and to align with the outside edges of the ties.

We then drilled two 1/8" dia. holes through the plexiglass at each end between ties, so wood screws could be used to mount this jig to the road bed to hold it steady while we drilled all the other holes through the roadbed.

We could then lay this jig aginst the end of track, lay our turnout on it , Insert short pieces of 1/16" welding rod to align the turnout in the jig, get alignment with the existing track, and fasten the jig in place correctly. The turnout could be lifted off, and all holes drilled through the roadbed.

The screws and jig were removed, and the hole for the power arm was enlarged to allow full travel through the roadbed.

(You simply turn the jig over for a left hand turnout.)

Wires were attached and the "motor" was mounted first, then the turnout was tweeked into perfect alignment, joiners slipped over all rail ends that required them, and the turnout was spiked in place. (Today, you would apply glue to the "ready-made" turnouts.)

The last thing was to remove the tooth pics and test operation. It saved us a lot of time, and gave us good service.

This should still work today on Atlas or other turnouts as it did on hand laid turnouts.