Hello dear fellows modellers, I have read the topic post by shaummy about turnout switch on control panels and it made me think of an old idea I had someday.I have rather to post a new topic because the subject is sligtly different although related. Here is my point : I am suffering from "layoutwiringphobia" That is to say that I dream of model locos running with their own power (micro-batteries ?) and no electricity flowing by the rails (it happenned sometimes on my previous layouts without looking for it ) As a consequence of that disease, I try to avoid as much as possible wiring... On the other hand, I know that repowering of the turnouts is certainly a must, so here is what my ill brain has imagine: If throwing your turnouts (switches) with good ol' 050 doesn't make you ashamed (you don't have to tell anyone about that particular habit)and if you don't want to install those fussy ~^@*§# microswitches activated by turnout throwbar under the table,perhaps the simplest (I did not say smartest) solution is to repower your turnout via a on-off-on double switch on the control panel.For those who are affraid to forget to back the switch to neutral position after use and so provocating a possible shortcut, you can use momentary on-off-on double switch. I know this solution is a bit "tricky", but if you hate working under the table with electric material as I do, maybe you will find this solution convenient for you... I do apologize for this lengthy post and please, don't tell my mum I am doing this, she believes I am a wiring "hero" because I play with "electrical" model trains at the age of 32. marc
Marc, it´s funny that you mentioned this method with on-off-on double switches to activate turnouts. For about 30 years ago I bought alot of such switches with the intention to use them in a panel for turnouts. At that time they cost only about a half US$. I used them 1988 when I made the main panel for SR&WF. The power to some turnouts must be turned off after the activating to avoid coil burnout, but with momentary switches it is solved automaticly. My turnouts (ROCO) has an internal coil switch so the position of the panel switch is not critical. However, I use not momentary switches which give me free of charge an indication on the panel how the turnout is positioned just by looking on the switch lever. You can see how it looks like on a picture here -------- Helge SR&WF NARA member #5 This turnout discussion has been so interesting so I will jump over to "Control Panel Turnout switches" to continue..... [ 08 March 2001: Message edited by: HelgeK ]
Hi Helge, It is nice to talk to an another US RR modeller from the "old Europe" In fact, my idea is to avoid using turnout motor (too much wir...ahrg, you remember "layoutwiringphobia ?)which can repower the turnout by themselves. But I like your idea of lever wich tells the position of the "blades" when you look at them Apart from an old teacher I knew when I was 12, nobody among us has more than 2 eyes, so your hint sounds usefull to me. marc
Greetings guys! There is a use of an over-center spring like Peco does. Then you run a piece of music wire through a copper or plastic tubeing from the control panel, to each turnout. Push on the wire and the turnout flips the points away from you, pull the wire and the points flip back toward you. The spring holds the points in position. No soldering needed. Another way is to use vacuum like on a player piano. You can buy all you need from: delair@fast.net, or you can make your own as needed. The source of vacuum can be a double bellows operating like peddals driven by a small motor, or use a vacuum sweeper motor. Each bellow would operate a turnout one way, and you would need a two way valve to operate each turnout. In both cases the position of the wire, or valve would show you how the turnout was set. An additional method, is to use monofilament fishing line, and pull the turnout into position from the control panel. Again by looking at the line knobs you would see the position of the turnout.
Watash, you have absolutely cracked me up! All three of these use no electricity And are practicle in the construction. Best of all, no wires! I am not yet educated in the fine arts of layout wiring.
I used the 'push-pull' wire method on all my HO layouts. Works great! Never a failure during many exhibitions I also added micro-switches in the run to pass power to the frogs of live frog points. Although on my N scale layout, I use motors.
Thank you watash for making the point about non electrical methods of control turnouts. Thanks also alan for your testimony about the push-pull wire method. In fact, I am a bit anxious about "tuning" the wire to activate properly the turnout throwbar(I think of the relation between the wire course and the throwbar course) What is your advise on this matter ? Thanks for your help marc
I don't know if this has been mentioned or not. Radio Control airplane modellers use push rods to connect servos to the control surfaces. These push rods come in different sizes or can be cut to fit. Just check them out at any hobby store that sells model aircraft and or boats
Marc, you know what a steel cable looks like? You can buy whole rolls of woven steel cable used on autos, and airplanes, boats and some appliances. Most big hardware stores will sell you cables by the roll or the foot. I usually use one that is 1/16" diameter. You can not "push" a cable UNLESS it is supported inside a tube of some sort. You get a soft 1/4" diameter copper tube also at a hardware store. Start at the turnout. mount the tube about 1/2 to 1.0 inch from the throw rod, so the tube is in line with the throw rod. make a rather large bend in the tube (no kinks) and run the tube toward the control panel. Again gently bend the tube so it is in line with the push-pull knob, or lever on the control panel. Fasten the tube along its length to support it. Run the cable through this copper tube until it comes out the far end at the turnout. Get an electrical terminal with a small hole just able to slip over the end of the cable, and that has a small hole through the flat loop. Crimp the terminal onto the cable. You should be able to move the terminal back and forth far enough to operate the turnout without hitting either the turnout or the tube. fasten the terminal loop to the turnout throw rod. At the control panel, fasten this end of the cable to another terminal and connect to the lever, or knob. Now when you pull the cable, it will throw the turnout one way, and when you push the cable will throw the turnout the other way. You can also use a small music wire (.030 to .55" diameter) the same way, but do not bend the copper tube less than a five inch radius. If the turnout is no farther than 30" away, you can use a stiff wire connected directly if the arrangement will allow reaching panel and turnout from the proper direction, like in a model airplane or boat. Give it some thought.
You can also try the control cables used on bicycles. These control the brakes and gear shifts. Go to a bike shop or strip them off your kids bikes. I am not sure how economical they are, Watash's method may certainly be cheaper. But, if you have access to them, it's another source!!
Further to my post about radio control enthusiasts, a company called Sullivan products sells gold-n-rods. The last pack I bought when I was still into radio control aircraft came with 2 36inch red plastic sheaths and 2 36inch yellow rods and assorted hardware and clips. The yellow rod is fluted so there are only 8 contact points which gives exceptionally smooth and easy motion through the tube. They are temparature stabilized to minimize elongation. They come in varying flexing ability from very flexible to rigid. Handy for curvature in order to reach back to those switches that were placed in awkward locations.
Back before computers and diesels took over the rails, there were "Towers" where men changed the semiphores as well as the turnouts, by pulling levers. These levers (about 4 to 5 feet long) stuck up out of the floor and were arranged in rows across the room. Each lever was connected to push rods, bellcranks, and the throw bars of a turnout, allowing the operator to shift the turnout points as needed. Today it is done electrically, but some of the linkage is the same. All I do is copy that linkage to suit my own needs. Where appropriate, I even use the original Atlas snap switch positioner, others I make to suit myself.
Guys, I'm Mr. Lazy.... I use under the table electric turnout motors. with sprung throwbacks at the turnout on the layout itself. So with the 2 I got a realistic looking layout without all that clutter of the turnout motors on top the layout. And my under the table turnout motors are slow (like tortiose is) I like the action of the slow turnout motors and invisible as well. If the motors are invisible it looks better and no need to worry about an engine hitting one in a ackward place from over hang... [ 12 March 2001: Message edited by: 7600EM_1 ]
Marc, what did you decide on? We are all waiting with baited breath to know how it came out! Maybe you discovered something we haven't learned yet. Fill us in on your experiments.
Sorry guys, I read every new post on trainboard and on this topic everyday as well...I have not forgot you folks ! In fact, I have found that a lot of modellers activate turnouts with some "mechanical" device and feel happy with it...Turnout motoring is not the only way and it is good news for minimum-wiring pros like me. To reply to your question, dear Watash,I decided to lay my turnouts with "050" activation at first but manage to be able to switch to wire activation later when I will have the time to experiment with the latter. Anyway, I have made my mind that turnout motors are definitely not a "must-have" Thanks for your help, marc
