G'day, I'm looking for help with the design of my new 11x13' layout. Any help would be appreciated. As I am short on time and skills with using a trackplanning program or just drawing it by hand I'd like someone to draw up a proper plan. I've listed what I want below: Wants -Long mainline -Double track main -Curvy mainline -Mountainous scenery -Heaps of grades -Helper ops -A good size yard -Double deck, helix or no helix -Small communities along the line tucked into nooks and crannies in the mountains -A seperate staging level
Mitchell, I'm sure PPuinn (Dave) will be able to assist, some further information would also help Era Railroad you model Type of trains to run look forward to seeing progress
Just realised I forgot all that. I'm going to model the present, same style as Eric Brooman does with the Utah Belt. I'm going to model the GDRMCo, freelance of course. The main trains on the layout will be ore/coal trains and intermodal, but I will also run other trains like general freights and the like. And last but not least I'll be modelling N scale.
Continuous running is good for just sitting and watching, but I'd like a mix of both, so if I get lazy I can sit and watch.
Just to add a bit more, if it'll make it any easier I'd like to base the layout on MRL's Mullan Pass, specifically the Helena to Mullan Tunnel section. All it'd need is double track instead of the single track.
you should check out the July Issue of MR. There's a great article on planning an N scale 9x16 foot layout.. with a lot of the same specs as yours I did a quick scan of the plan.. yeah, I know.. copyright-smopyright click the image for full size.. Tim
Yup, I agree with the Colonel, PPuin (Dave) really knows his stuff. The good thing is he normally works in N scale so this'll be right up his alley. He did some reconfigurations to my design and turned an OK layout into a great one. I highly recommend him.
This is exactly the sort of plan I've tried to design several times before. N scale, medium-size room, heavy mainline, two sceniced decks plus staging deck... I just need a few more specs. Where's the entrance, and how clear does it have to be? That is, are swing bridges, etc. usable? How many people will operate this layout?
I have contacted Dave in regards to this thread. Thats an excellent layout but anything Tom Danemann does is nothing but exceptional.
Excellent questions Triplex! Mitchell, If possible, please post a floor plan of the room showing locations and dimensions of all windows(width, sill level, and top), doors (swinging or folding), and closets, with an indication of window and closet usage (never--cover it with layout; rarely--guaranteed but awkward access is ok; often--must have guaranteed easy access). It would be helpful to also show locations for light switches and outlets (because you'll need access to them or will have to relocate them), and ceiling light fixtures (b/c you may be interested in adding lighting to the upper deck, and you will definitely need additional lighting if you go with a multiple deck design). You indicated multi-deck design was an option. What are your personal preferences regarding level of railheads above the floor for double or triple deck levels. There is a dynamic interaction between your eye level, each shelf height, each shelf depth, the thickness of each shelf (a 4 inch thick and 18" deep shelf obscures less of a lower level than and a 6 inch thick shelf), and aisle width (yes! aisle width too, because it affects how far back you can comfortably stand from the layout which affects how deeply you can see into lower decks without bending). Establishing the ideal for you personally will take lots of trial and error...WARNING: Believing the numbers that worked for someone else will work for you because you are the same height, will lead to disappointing results! Others' numbers will get you to a decent starting point, but play with some adjustable shelving and varying shelf depths and thicknesses (just tape a flap of paper to hang across the front to simulate different shelf thicknesses). If you put structures and trains on each shelf, vary how close to the front or back of the shelf they can be located and yet still be fully visible, because the tops of buildings at the back of lower shelves will be obscured by upper decks. Some people don't mind missing building tops as long as they see the trains; others what to see the trains centrally framed by beautiful scenery/buildings in front, in back, and above. Do you have a MRL system map showing towns and tunnels you'd like to model?
Heres the layout room. The door is the dark grey section, and the window is at the bottom of the room. The window is just built into the walls, our house is like a fortress as the walls are about 3-4 bricks thick. I'm leaning more towards double deck, as the top level could be set 1.6m above the floor, second level could be 1.3m and the staging level could be 1m above the floor, 30cm should be good seperation, maybe more. If you can fit it all in reasonably then that'd be great, if not then from the yard which would be to the right of Austin to the East portal of Mullan Tunnel will suffice. Lighting and power outlets wont be a problem, the power outlets in the room are close to the floor.
I read your reply but forgot to answer it :embarassed:. The plan below should help, swingbridges would be perfect at the entrance, not a fan of duckunders. Max number of operators would be about 4-5.
One foot is pretty small separation, because it makes viewing anything but the top level hard unless the decks are very narrow.
I'm up for suggestions, the staging level could be lower, say 60cm above the floor, then the 2nd level could be at 1.10m, then the top deck at 1.60m. Would this be better?
Why do you need that much space above the staging level? It's not going to be sceniced. The separation between the sceniced decks sounds reasonable.
These are only approximate measures, but should help us keep straight what elevations we're discussing: 1.60 m = 63. inches 1.30 m = 51.2 1.10 m = 43.3 inches 1.00 m = 39.4 .914 m = 36 inches .61 m = 24 inches .60 m = 23.6 inches .305 m = 12 inches .30 m = 11.8 .20 m = 7.9 inches .10 m = 3.9 inches .076 m = 3 inches .051 m = 2 inches .0254 m = 1 inch .01 m = 1 cm = 3/8 inch Don't forget that each shelf has a thickness that will affect how deeply you can see into the shelf. Suppose your shelf is 5 cm (2 inches) thick. Setting railhead elevations at 1.00 m (39 inches) and 1.30 m (51.2 inches) will only yield a visual "window" that is .25 m high (a little less than 9 and 7/8 inches), and a 10 cm thick shelf (4 inches--standard thickness of upper deck fascia on many layouts) will leave less than 8 inches of viewing and working space--not enough to use a drill or longer soldering wand.
