I know this discussion has come up here before, but I can't seem to find it !! Currently I am using "grandpa's" wheel cleaning method: Isopropyl alcohol on a rag draped over the track . I have been using a bright boy for track cleaning but want to get away from that. I bought some "Goo Gone" but am unsure as to the best way to apply it. Any words of cleaning wisdom out there?? Happy Modeling!! John
There was an extensive discussion of this on the Digitrax (DCC) egroup a while back. The final concensus was only use a bright boy or similiar abrasive to remove paint or weathering from rail. Once you have done that, hide the bright boy. The abrasive leaves grooves that trap dirt. Don't use Goo Gone unless you immediately remove the residue that it leaves. It tends to attract dirt. Use a good track cleaning car such as those made by Aztec, Ribbon Rail, and Tony's Train exchange. Use rubbing alcohol as a cleaner. After cleaning, apply a very small amount of CRC 2-26 to small area of track and run trains around layout to distribute. CRC 2-26 was the key ingrediant. From the can, "Safe for use on all plastics, improves electrical properties, lubricates and frees rusted parts, displaces moisture, and stops corrosion." It can be found in the electrical department of Home Depot stores. I found it on the bottom shelf near the electrical tape and wire ties. And no, I don't work for CRC.
Okay, I used Goo Gone before, but never had that problem b4. I never had time to run trains all the time, and always cleaned all the tracks before operating. What about Centerline's car? It was one of the first and best. Never used it, but have read the reviews. Also, this stuff you get at the home center: if it lubricates parts, why would you apply it to trackage? It'd be havoc on grades........ <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ncng: Don't use Goo Gone unless you immediately remove the residue that it leaves. It tends to attract dirt. Use a good track cleaning car such as those made by Aztec, Ribbon Rail, and Tony's Train exchange. Use rubbing alcohol as a cleaner. After cleaning, apply a very small amount of CRC 2-26 to small area of track and run trains around layout to distribute. CRC 2-26 was the key ingrediant. From the can, "Safe for use on all plastics, improves electrical properties, lubricates and frees rusted parts, displaces moisture, and stops corrosion." It can be found in the electrical department of Home Depot stores. I found it on the bottom shelf near the electrical tape and wire ties. And no, I don't work for CRC.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Goo Gone is a cleaner people,and like any other cleaner you put it and wipe it OFF. My NTRAK group was doing a show last fall and this guy was telling me I would be sorry I was using Goo Gone. Then he asked me "Why are you wiping it off?" I told him "I'm cleaning the rails." He said he'd never thought about wiping it off.Guess he couldn't read the ditections or just didn't bother. <marquee>North American Rail Alliance</marquee> [ 01 April 2001: Message edited by: Catt ]
Guys, HEE HEE "If all else fails dig the instructions out of the trash can and read them for the last alternative" HEE HEE
The CRC 2-26 is a lubricant but when used sparingly it doesn't inhibit traction that I have noticed. I run long heavy trains up and down 2.5% grades with no noticable wheel slip. It sure does cut down on track cleaning and really improves electrical contact. From another thread it sounds like the ACT-6006 is a similar product.
Do not use RUBBING Alcohol to clean anything that is near plastic, it has oil in it, which can eat said plastic. It will also leave a slippery residue even after you wipe it off. Use 70 or 90% Isopropel...
I agree with you Greg. Any electrical contact cleaner does well if you don't have a Radio Shack store nearby.
My Santa Fe has a MofW train, that consists of a centerline car with the roller soaked with GooGone, the next car in the train is Tony's brass cleaner with the dry pad removing the googone. This works very well. I also change the Tony Pad and run the car without the centerline with a little of the ACT6000 or whatever cleaner to finish. Once in a great while during operating sessions, we even squirt a little Wahl clipper oil on a spot causing a problem, in particular, a swtich. Bob Miller
