I don't like the look, the feel or anything else about track joiners. So I had an epiphany and wondered since I am using n scale code 55 flex track, why can't I cut the track out of, oh let's say, the first 1/4" of one piece of track and the ties off of a second piece of track, and thread the two together? Maybe stagger the joints? this would mean a feeder every 30 " but no joiners, especially on the more visible sections of the layout. It would also cure the expansion and contraction issues I have read about. Would this work?? Knowing just how seldom I get an original idea, there is probably a whole book on how to do this that I have overlooked.
joiners I have heard of this . From the people I have heard it from they solder the ends together. Works for them You are in GA? Check out the Southeast group I started. Look in my Signature for a link.
The issue I see with this is getting the track ends to line up. That's part of the reason of the rail joiners. I don't think it will, with your idea, you'll have to solder every joint, and if you do that, there is no room for expansion and contraction. With joiners you can solder every other or so and the unsoldered joints allow the track to move.
I see your point. My question is since there is a "spike" (plastic) on each tie, if the rails met in the center of two ties, would there be room for deflection???
I guess we're talking about Atlas code 55 here. Your idea might work for straight sections of track but not so much on curves. It's just way too easy to pop the track right out of the "spikes." But give it a try and let us know. Then you will be the expert! - Jeff
There is too much slack in the plastic ties to maintain alignment. Lacking a rail joiner, I've soldered very thin wire between two abutting rails with a small gap between the ends. The theory was that the thin wire would hold the rails in alignment, and even bend in the gap when expansion occurs. I guess it worked, as I didn't have problems there. But that layout was torn down shortly after so it didn't have much time.
ProtoStores sells REALLY tiny joiners (etched stainless steel) that grip the rail webs rather than the bases. I believe they are usable only on straight track, but they do allow for expansion/contraction and are almost invisible. Another way that takes a bit more fussing is to file away about 3/16" of the outer half of one rail and the inner half of the other rail such that when the two are mated they form a whole rail along the joint. This requires a pair of tiny spikes and a wood tie at each joint, but it does allow for expansion/contraction and alignment with no unsightly joiner. This method works on curves if the rails are carefully soldered prior to installation, as the soldered joint lies in the axis of the rail and can bend, but again would require replacing a few plastic ties with wood ties/tiny spikes. I've only tried this with individual rails when hand laying the track, but I don't see why it wouldn't work with flex track also. Maybe this would be more accurately described as a rail splice rather than a joint. Have fun!
The ultimate method for aligning track. I posted this idea over in the Block Gaps on Curves thread and thought I would elaborate here. The solution to joining and aligning track is so simple, yet I cant say I've ever herd of this before. Simply solder your way to insulated expansion gaps. What? Solder..Insulation? Mark you're crazy! Check this out. Get yourself some PC Board ties. At least 1 per gap/joint, or as many as you feel comfortable with. Simply stagger your rails by at least one tie, and solder that PC board in the middle. You're result is a perfectly gauged joint that can be on straights, curves, insulated, and most certainly accommodates for expansion/contraction. The obvious draw back is that each section needs a feeder, but that's no problem. I spread the ties and solder the feeders to the bottom of the rail, then re position the ties. Once ballasted, you'd never know there was a feeder, nor joint anywhere in the flex (except for the tiny gaps for insulation, if needed). These photos show gaps for effect, but if no insulation is necessary, you can butt those rails right up against each other.
Mark, great idea for the gaps on the curves. The only issue would be that the PC board ties would need to be left to float otherwise they would work against the expansion/contraction issues.
Good point. Just leave those few ties un-glued and un-spiked and you're golden. Also, for insulated gaps, you'll also want to protect against expansion which may push the two rail ends together, closing the gap. I've read about taking thin styrene and gluing it to the rail end, then shaping it to the same contour. That will prevent metal contact if a period of expansion closes the gap. Perhaps a small drop of CA on the rail end will work as well (not gluing the two ends together, but just providing a tiny sliver of non conductive material between the gap).
The gaps don't need to be all that large so I leave mine open. Makes a nice clickity clack when the trains roll by. I did close them up in the past but found I would need to remove them anyway. The better solution for me is more smaller gaps.
It's probably a good idea to close the gaps to avoid inadvertent bridging by a metal wheel. I usually ACC a piece of thin styrene strip in the gap and trim to shape with an X-Acto knife/jeweler's file. A metal wheel shorting a gap can cause all kinds of weird electronic anomalies.
