I am building a new N scale layout. I am using atlas c80 track, and using Caboose ind. ground throws to throw the turnouts, which will be Peco c80 #6 and #8's. My question is: what is the min track center-to-center clearance required to use ground throws? What is a good min. center-to-center spacing for a modern class 1 mainline? What is a good center spacing for a yard, and branch trackage? This layout will be fully equipped with modern 6-axle locos, and 89' equipment. The track will be glued atop Woodland Scenics foambed.
TIMEOUT First of all, you need more than an inch and a quarter for those Caboose ground throws, unless you want to cut them down and re-mount new pins (personal experience here). (1.25*160)/12 = 16.67 feet, or just about good for a modern mainline. However, caboose throws won't work here, at least between tracks they won't, so move up to 1.5". (1.5*160)/12 = 20 feet. Hope you're modeling the UP somewhere. My suggestion, stick to 1.25 or 1.3" (Distance for an Atlas crossover) spacing, and put the turnout throws on the outside of the rails (it's where they would be anyway).
I'm SO glad I asked! I model BNSF modern day. So, yes the mainline will have 20 scale feet centerlines. My question is for yard ladders. 20' spacing on a yard ladder is ridiculous, and I don't have enough space to work that! Any substtutes for ground throws int he yard that are reliable, and simple, and CHEAP?
I don't know about N scale, but HO scale Peco Turnouts don't require ground thows. They have internal springs that hold the points in place and can be switched by hand.
What about that 'RS-3' spring that I once saw in a MR mag article? 'Ridiculously Simple, Model 3' nothing more than a wire, bent to hold the rails in one position or another...... Would a Peco even need this? You once stated, Yank, that Pecos have a sort of snap action to them. Also, Shinohara's have been popping up on eBay. Are they good for the price? Do they have snap action, also? Are they reliable without machines?
N scale Peco's have the same snap action as their HO counterparts. Ground throws are not necessary unless you just desire to have them.
Ok, so I don't necessarily NEED ground throws, altho they'd make lit look cool. Just how do you throw the switch? Digitally? *fingers* or with a popsicle stick? Etc? The ground throws would add about 150$ to the turnout purchase.. Hey, that's 2 Katos! You guys rock!
It takes a litle while to get the hang of using SHINOHARA turnouts. They require a switch machine, as the points just float and are only attached to the throw bar. There is no spring holding mechanism. The eBay prices that have been being asked for lately , around $10.50 reserve bid, are a bit high. This is for a #6 turnout. The going price is about $7.00 to $8.00 most of the time. I have used SHINOHARA for a awhile and like them a lot. You just have to remember that they are all rail turnouts, with a all rail frog. No plastic frog rails, so you have to watch where you install the turnouts and will have to cut some rail gaps in places. I use a slow motion/stall switch machine on most of my turnouts. One or two are manually controlled, but this is the exception rather than the rule. I don't like the ground throws, because you have to keep putting your big overesize fingers down in the area where you are trying to run trains. You will loose a lot of room by having to allow for the ground throws, in a yard you will constantly bumping and derailing cars by having to flip ground throws with you fingers. If you are wanting manually controlled turnouts, check some of the modelling magazines for different manual throw systems. There are several different ways to throw the turnouts manually. It sort of depends on what you want you controll mechanism to do, look like, and how far will your controll point be from be from the turnout points that you are trying to throw.
This is almost exactly what the Peco turnouts have built into them. To throw them we use one of those little plastic plugs you insert into holes drilled in drywall to hold screws (I can't remember what they are called.) The little plug thing fits on one end of a bamboo skewer that we also use to uncouple knuckle couplers. Shinohara's are excellent turnouts and are my favourite for DC but have one major drawback for DCC layouts. The throw bar and hinge are metal and are soldered to the point rails. This means that the point rails and frog all pick up power from the stock rail they are touching. This is good for power routing but can cause a very brief short if the BACK of a wheel comes in contact with the point that is near the opposite stock rail (is this clear?) check this link for pictures of what I am talking about http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm you can fix it, but if you are going to replace the hinge and thowbar you might as well just scratchbuild your turnouts - at least you won't have to take them apart before you put them together Now this is of course a problem for DC as well as DCC - but a small short in DC will cause a hesitation in a loco that you probably won't even notice - a small short in DCC will stop every locomotive for however long it takes your sytstem to reset - not a big deal once or twice, but if it happens a lot - it gets anoying real fast...
