Okay - I'm trying my hand at scratchbuilding - I've got tiny styrene pieces that I'm trying to fasten to eachother and I need some help with using the right kind of adhesive. I've used various super glues and modelling cements I had lying around the house, and all of them goop and string. You know what I'm talking about!?!? What type of adhesive should I be using to avoid this and allow pinpoint, "messless" contact for these tiny N-Scale projects? Help! Thanks!! -Mike
One way, I found to keep glue under control, especially then using small amounts, or in small areas, is to use a toothpick. Transfer the glue from the tube to the area to which you want to apply it, rather than applying it directly from the tube. As for which glue to use in any particular situation, I wll leave that answer to those with more expertise than I have.
While you'll probably get as many different options as you receive responses, for bonding styrene pieces together, I prefer Tenax applied with a small brush. The bond is almost immediate and is quite strong. [ 27. May 2003, 16:32: Message edited by: absnut ]
For the Styrene, you need a glue designed to slightly melt the plastic. Tenax, or Testors liquid plastic cement are good. I also use a toothpick or needle to apply glue, but for the liquid glue you might have better control with a very small paintbrush. When the paintbrush gets gummed up you can clean it in the glue itself by dipping the brush in the glue and wiping it dry with a small peice of tissue or paper towel, and after a couple dips and wipes your brush will clean up ok.
Definitely use the liquid cements. Such as Tenax, Testors, or Ambroid "Pro Weld." Apply sparingly. Use a very small brush. Or a toothpick as an applicator. Let the glue flow into the joint via capillarity. Boxcab E50 [ 27. May 2003, 22:06: Message edited by: BoxcabE50 ]
Ambroid Pro Weld is good stuff! I tend to shy away from CA when doing styrene work, it's too messy, and on some plastics, won't stick at all!
When testors glue(the one in the tube)gets old,it gets stringy.I find that the medium CA also gets stringy when old.
I have yet to have any superglue get stringy on me. Seems it dries in the bottle before it gets stringy...could have something to do with forgetting to put the cover back on... I prefer Tenex or Testor's liquid cement. Wal-Mart sells one with a needle tip. I also use the liquid in the small jar, with a paintbrush. It doesn't get stringy or goopy. However, with the liquids, make sure you place a small ring of foam rubber around the bottom of the bottle...like a life preserver...because with a paintbrush in them, they are easily knocked over...and make a HUGE mess...melting any styrene they come in contact with. Trust me....just don't ask my how I know.... Jeff Augsburg & Concord R.R. (a fictional shortline in Central Illinois) http://www.pegnsean.net/~revnjeff
ZAP, available at Hobby Lobby is the best glue I have ever come across. Believe me, when you build as much as I do, you test them all. Here is my latest example using nothing but ZAP. Plus it will never come apart. The plastic around breaks before the bond does.
Thanks for the replies everyone! I've been using toothpicks but the blob strings along when I pull the toothpick away from the tube. I think Dangerboy might be on target with my problem - if the stuff is gettin old, it seems thicker and gets gooey fast. I'll try Tenax and ZAP and see how that goes. Can't get good at something until I have some failures first. Thanks again! -Mike
I have never personally had "stringy" super glue. Unless, you are using "Gel type" super glue. I have used, super glue, super glue "GEL", Plastic Weld, Tenex, etc.... each has its own uses. For styrene, which is my mainstay material. I use Plastruct Plastic Weld. It is a general purpose plastic solvent cement. It does have a odor to it, if a lot is used. (an believe me, I use a lot!!!) Testor's liquid glue is a little weak. I do use testor's "Gel" glue for quick joints and permanent joints or heavy(thick) material. Also, as a "tack weld" to hold difficult joints. Than finish the job with Plastic Weld. Super Glue (GEL), I use for cast resin and cast metal/brass parts. The liquid Super Glue, I seldom use....... Jerry G. [ 31. May 2003, 21:24: Message edited by: fcnrwy ]
A "gel" type CA, such as Zap-A-Gap CA+, (green label), which is made "thicker" so you can also fill gaps, will get somewhat stringy when old. I just recently tossed a bottle. But am not surprised, as it was about four years old. They'll last a fair length of time, if you keep them sealed as quickly as possible, and in a cool place. Boxcab E50
Well definately there are many different glues to choose from and it seems nobody uses the same ones or uses them for the same things. I've been using Zap-A-Gap CA+ with a toothpick for years for all types of materials and have had really good results except when I glue my fingers to the model. Sometimes on some larger items I find it not thick enough so I'll use a two part epoxy. Other times with the CA+, I just place a drop on my modeling desk and dip my parts into it using tweasers. Just don't drop the parts or anything else in the puddle Oh and keep your elbows off the table too....Ow! That smarts!! If ya do have an accident, a little nail polish remover makes the glue brittle and then you can clean up.
I'll drop in another vote for ZAP-A-GAP CA+. That is my glue of choice. I have heard from several people that if you put the "ZAP" bottle in the fride, it will stay good much longer. Don't know if that really helps as none ever stays here long term anyway but I do keep it there much to the wife's dislike. [ 01. June 2003, 14:40: Message edited by: BNSF FAN ]
