Tips on weathering with chalks anyone?

sillystringtheory Sep 26, 2001

  1. sillystringtheory

    sillystringtheory TrainBoard Member

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    I bought some chalks yesterday for weathering and tried them on a few cars and had a hard time actually getting the powder to stick to the cars at all. I consider myself a pretty good airbrush weatherer but the chalks are a whole different animal. Any tips would be appreciated. :(
     
  2. justind

    justind TrainBoard Member

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    I read in a kalmbach book to grind the chalk, dust or sprinkle the car and then spray it down with Matte Medium or Hairspray (don't get it in the trucks or wheels, that would suck). I haven't tried this, but I think it is the accepted method. It also noted that the Matte Medium (and hairspray I assume) will hide some of the chalk, so don't be afraid to be liberal with it. Please let us know what you used and how it worked out for you...
     
  3. yankinoz

    yankinoz TrainBoard Member

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    If you spray the model with Dullcote before you start weathering you will find the surface has a bit more bite to it and the chalk will stick.
     
  4. Colonel

    Colonel Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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  5. sillystringtheory

    sillystringtheory TrainBoard Member

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    Wow. Used Testors dull coat first, then applied chalks. BIG difference! Did 4 Roundhouse CN modern boxcars lastnight. Orange chalk looks great as lite rust on silver roofs. Thanks for the tips!
    Warren

    YOU'LL GET MY BAGPIPES ONLY WHEN YOU CAN PRY THEM FROM MY COLD DEAD LIPS! IN THE MEANTIME, MARCH! :D
     
  6. Colonel

    Colonel Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Hermann,
    Thanks for the information I will give it a try on the weekend and let you all know how it goes [​IMG]
     
  7. justind

    justind TrainBoard Member

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    So you applied Dullcote prior to the chalks and nothing afterward? How permanent is this? I have to store my cars in boxes because I have no staging tracks, wouldn't the chalks start to rub off on everything else and eventually be worn off the car by my fingers?
     
  8. Paul Templar

    Paul Templar Passed away November 23, 2008 In Memoriam

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    [​IMG]


    The weathering of any rolling stock is unfortunately a dirty and messy job, when using chalks. The end results however, justify the little clean up afterwards. So here's how I do it.
    You will need to obtain from your local Art shop the following coloured chalks. Black - Brown - Grey - Rust (light and dark) - White and yellow - Black Indian Ink.
    Also required from a car accessory shop some windscreen washer fluid. Plus a can of Satin/Matte varnish from a hobby shop. This gives the final appearance to the finished article.
    Once you have gathered all the items together, a start can be made on weathering that new looking rolling stock you have just bought. You will also need to find an old tin box or two (Old tobacco tins will do) so you can scrape the chalks into them.
    Before any weathering can be done however, a little cleaning with a soft brush is needed to get rid of any dust which might have settled on the rolling stock. Apart from anything else, the is only one rule to stick to. - Light coloured cars need dark chalks - Dark coloured cars need light chalks.
    The ink wash
    The first thing on the agenda is to spray the car with the Satin/Matte varnish, this will give the chalks something to grab hold of if you like. Take it outdoors to do it. Once the car has dried (approximately 2 hours) a start can be made to make you car look like it's been in service for years. With the Indian ink, grab an egg cup (Make sure the wife's not looking) and put about four drops into the bottom of the egg cup. Now, with the windscreen washer fluid, place about a soup spoon full into the egg cup and mix it all together. An old shaving brush is needed or some soft brush or other to flow the liquid onto the roof and sides of the car. It will run everywhere, but that is exactly what you want it to do. Just keep on stroking the brush down the sides of the car until the effect you require has been achieved. Flow more on the roof from the middle out. Now with a paper towel, dry the brush off and start to wipe off the wash in the same direction you put it on. Once all this has been accomplished, leave it to one side to dry. As it dries, the dark colour of the ink wash will highlight the raised details. (Rivets etc.)
    Right, lets assume that the car has dried, and proceed onto the next stage with the chalks. As I stated earlier, light chalks for dark cars and dark chalks for light cars. So, which ever car you have started needs the appropriate chalk colours. Let's assume your car is darkish yellow, now, it should with the after effects of the ink wash look a little older already so now subtle chalk weathering is needed.
    Chalking
    Scrape some chalks into those tin boxes I asked you to get. I would expect with a dark yellow car that red rust and a little grey and white will be all that is needed for this car. With the shaving brush (Now dry) dip it into the rust chalk and brush lightly over the car trucks and couplers. Use a very small amount of grey and white brushing from the top of the car down in a straight line. This will leave a streaky effect, and is what you are after. When all is done, turn your attention back to the trucks and couplers. Grind up a little rust into the bottom of the egg cup and with a small paint brush dipped into water ,then into the rust, brush over the trucks again. Brush on a little at a time, if you get too much on, use a paper towel to take it off.
    All that is left to be done to the car after all the chalks have been applied is to take it out doors and spray it again with the Satin/Matte varnish, this will seal the weathering for ever.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. rgn1

    rgn1 E-Mail Bounces

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    Hi all,
    Thanks to Paul for his in-depth weathering class!!
    :D :cool: Hopefully we will hear from others.
    I have found that dull-cote works well initially for adding chalk and as a sealant.
    The best chalks I have found are called Nouvel Carre Pastels made by Sakura Color Products of Japan. They hold the colors very well after spraying with dull-cote. They are a bit pricey, $12.00 for 12 to a box, but are well worth it. Check your local art supply store for them or ask them to special order.
    I have also found something that seems to hold the chalk better than a brush. Try the cosmetics section of your local Wal-Mart or such, and look for eye shadow sponges. :eek: They come in different shapes for different applications. :cool:
    Another tool I use is an artists stump. You can get the chalk into very tight places with different sizes. [​IMG]
    Lastly, when you are at the art store spending a minor fortune, :rolleyes: look for some colored pencils. They come in handy for streak lines, graffiti, :mad: and such. One of the brands I use is Rexel Derwent Pastel Pencils from England. ;)
    Good luck and happy weathering.
     
  10. Colonel

    Colonel Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Thanks for the information Paul,
    Today i actually tried using dullcote first before using chalks and I found that the chalk does take better to the car than without dullcote
     
  11. HelgeK

    HelgeK TrainBoard Member

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    As usual (as many of you know) I use my own method to get rolling stocks look old. I have tried a mix of solvent naphta and cigarette ash, eventually added with very thin solution of HUMBROL dull model colors like orange for rust, and black + grey for oil, grease and such dirt.
    I dont use any coatings above "my dirt", but I must also admit that once a car is weathered it will stay at the railroad, not in a box or at any shelfs. Today a took some pics of arbitrary cars.
    You can see them below.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    --------
    Helge

    SR&WF
    NARA member #5
     

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