"Thinking outside the box"?

I am a kit builder, kit-basher, and scratch builder - I LOVE building things first and foremost. Running and switching is fun to a point but will not hold my interest for long.

I realized this while planning my first layout. It would take years to build and detail to my liking - my inclination is to a logging road with an interchange to a main line, circa 1900 - but when done I would quickly become bored with running trains ..... so I am trying to "think outside the box" and figure out how to make a layout where details can be added, removed, or changed easily without rebuilding the entire layout. (My available room is 10x12' with a doorway in one wall and a window in the opposite wall.)

I am wondering if I can lay track on a conventional benchwork and have "modules" fit between the tracks that are removable for revision, additions, and changes. Has anyone ever done this? Are there any examples on-line?

Maybe it is a totally crazy idea?

Thanks gang!

 

A friend of mine did pretty much that many years ago. He built numerous HO structures/dioramas which were mounted on odd-sized panels, many of which were entered in contests. After he moved to his new house, he placed the dioramas in various positions around the train room (on the benchwork) and then connected them with tracks to create his layout. As far as I know, he's still using this method. I haven't seen him in years since he moved to another state, but I have seen a couple of his dioramas pictured in magazines. I'm not sure the correct term for the sections would be modules, since no two of them were the same shape or size, and modules are generally expected to be interchangeable. Either way though, it's a good way to utilize contest dioramas on a layout.

Bill in FtL

 

Diane,
With a 10x12 room, I would be thinking about around the walls and a peninsula.
With a goal of being able to easily replace scene modules, two things come to mind:

• Minimal trackage
• Standardized Scene module sizes

When putting together the track plan, you would insure space for 1 or more standard modules in each area as appropriate. Some areas on the layout may not be a fit for standard modules but most areas would.
The standard size is not necessarily the size of the scenes but rather the scenes would be a ‘multiple’ of the standard size. You would need to decide on a standard size, let’s say 3” x 3”. With that in mind, each side of you scenes would be a multiple of 3”. Different areas on the layout would accommodate different size scenes or even multiple scenes. For instance, in one area may be 3x30, so you can do one scene of 3x30 or up to 10 scenes 3x3.
Not certain what you mean by conventional benchwork, but if it is essentially flat plywood, then build your scenes on 1/8” masonite and you can just plop on to the plywood. You can easily adjust the height of the scene with sheets on masonite (or other material) between the plywood and the scenes base.
Any wiring is easily accommodated by having the wires come through a hole in the base of the scene and then drilling a hole in the plywood (of course plan the location based on where the supports are.
Being that you love doing scenery, hiding the seams of the modules will be something you enjoy.
Let us know how you decide to do this.

 

There are a number of layouts that started with a diorama and eventually led to a full sized railroad pike. My layout isn't built with diorama's however, it is modular in nature. It started out as a 4X6 foot layout. Today, it's a bit larger and I can move it rather quickly, should the need arise. Setting it back-up not so easy or quick.

I did recently add a type of diorama to my layout, a mini-city with a small trolley line. I have plans to expand it. We shall see what happens next. See my signature below and and click on my YouTube for two videos and slide shows of my layout...if you be so inclined.

 

The concept is called "jigsaw pieces" (industries or small scenes on a piece of plywood that can be removed as a whole and replaced by another scene without changing the tracks).

Well known British model railroad designer Iain Rice has used 'em, see e.g. his book "Small, Smart and Practical Track Plans". Byron Henderson did the same on his Alameda Belt Line plan from Model Railroad Planning in 2005: http://www.layoutvision.com/gallery/id32.html

Smile,
Stein

 

Good idea Rick. Shouldn't be too hard to mount structures, scenery , etc. on a piece of 1/8" plywood to lift off the layout & replace w/ another one. In your N scale it should be easy to do on 1' x 2' or similar sized sheets. Thinking about doing same thing to change out industries to be era specific or even to have other kinds of industries on my 12' x 14' LAJ layout.

 

Yes, "jigsaw pieces" - that's just the ticket!

I am thinking two layers of 1/4" ply laminated (to allow more flexible changes in elevation) with 1" foam over the ply (for noise suppression). I can simply make the first layer of ply wider than the second and that will provide a ledge on which to set the removable pieces.

Thank you all for the ideas!

 

Well, the first time I saw the modular concept in action was the series of articles by Dave Frary in Model Railroader magazine. These days everybody and his brother is using modules in one way or another and it's no longer a new concept, although the track is usually part of the module. I'm not sure you could easily adapt one hard and fast track plan to all possible situations.

 

I hate to tell you this, but "foam", or 1" extruded Styrofoam insulation, does not act as a sound suppressor. It amplifies noise.

Thin plywood also acts as a drumhead and amplifies sound.

I construct my subroadbed out of splines of Masonite cut into 1" tall strips and glued together using yellow carpenter's glue. Not only is this extremely strong, much cheaper than plywood, and by its very nature naturally establishes an easement into curves...it is also extremely quiet.

When I run trains, I can hear the transition of each train when they run from the 3/4" plywood of the yard/industrial areas onto the splined Masonite subroadbed...they get exponentially quieter.

I also notice that when I'm running trains on bare benchwork, they get noticeably noisier when I glue my 2" extruded Styrofoam insulation scenery base onto the sides of my subroadbed.

After I've applied my felt/ground foam/static grass/Sculptamold final scenery with trees, bushes, dirt, etc., to my carved Styrofoam scenery base, things quieten up a little.

As to being able to change scenery, structures etc....the "jigsaw" method is good, but you could possible take it further by building the benchwork of your layout in standard sections (or "modules"), so that you could change out track, scenery and structures if you wanted to...and plug the old "module" back in if you wanted.

I have built my layout in portable 6' sections with most LDE's being at least 12' long (requiring two standard 6' modules). At the ends of the LDE's the double-track mainlines conform to my own standards, so that, if I wish, I can plug another LDE of equal length into that spot...with different industries, trackage and scenery (with only the ends blending in with adjacent scenery contours and textures).

I am not a proponent of building "tables" out of doors, plywood, foam...whatever, and sticking track onto these tables unless you are sold on the idea of moving your track around all the time, or if you're modeling portions of Kansas, Nebraska or Iowa.

"Standard" benchwork for years was either L-girder or cookie-cutter, with beginning layouts built on 4'X8' sheets of 3/4" plywood.

Since I model mountainous territory with cliffs, rivers, bridges, I prefer solid benchwork (L-girder with integral folding legs...light, stiff and stable) with the scenery base made out of easily carved 2" or even 3" extruded Styrofoam to represent uneven Earth as my smooth mainlines glide through cuts, fills, bridges and superelevated curves.

The only flat spots are where there's a town, a yard or an industry. Much of my scenery is below the railhead height, so "plywood plains" do not work for me, or would be more difficult to work with than my very versatile and flexible Styrofoam scenery base.

If you decide to cover your table top with extruded Styrofoam, I would suggest using dense 2" extruded Styrofoam and key your lift-out scenes using this, rather than 1/4" plywood bases. It's easier to cut (no sawdust) you don't need a saw (just a fillet knife or hot wire) and it has thickness so you can make roads, ditches, hills, gullies just by adding another layer and/or carving them directly into this sturdy scenery base.

You gotta remember that a sheet of 1/4" plywood might be marginally okay as subroadbed for your track, but, as soon as you start cutting holes in it, or carving a ditch alongside your mainlines, or sawing in a riverbed or gulch, it loses a lot of its integrity and needs to be supported from underneath some way.

That's why subroadbed that is a structure unto itself and is supported by benchwork that is separate from your scenery base is the much more stable option. This gives you the freedom of making your scenery any way you want, locating your lift-out sections wherever you want without worrying about compromising your solid benchwork and subroadbed.

Just thoughts...hope they assist you.

Cheers!
Bob Gilmore

 

my current plan is to make modular 4'-6' sections that attach and remove to my small layout. that way i can keep expanding and working on more mini scenes to keep me from getting bored.