The New Oakville Sub

I am using BDL168 for detection, SE8c for driving the driving the signals and RR&Co for computer control of the signals. I would recommend using JMRI PanelPro for computer signal control as it is free, widely used and probably simpler.

 

Jim,

The Team Digital SIC24AD is really the way to go. They are easily programmed by JMRI, and once done, you do not need to ever have a computer attached to you layout after programming. It is 100% Digitrax compatible and can interface using LocoNet instead of track power. I am extremely happy with the purchase.

 

On Atlas I asked about the remote controlled switch machine castings like this:
http://www.trainweb.org/hotrail/odd/switchmachine.jpg
Did you scratch build them?

 

Yeah, Steve. I Googled switch machine images and found one I thought I could build, and did a bunch of 'em. Just some styrene shapes and pieces is all it took. This is one of those details someone should make, but hey, whatever works!

Thanks Daryl and David...my mind is warping at the thought of tying all this stuff together, but in the end it will be like anything else - simple when you have done it!

 

Yeah it looks pretty easy to just mix match some shapes and get a close-enough look. But it would be nice to have a highly detailed casting. I emailed NJ International as that would be in their area of interest. I think these, the propane switch heater "duct-looking things" and the propane shroud heaters between the points are much needed detail parts.

 

The tricky part was rounding the one end; I chucked a square (.060?) shape in a drill and used sandpaper on the end. Lost a couple that way

 

Today we're putting new light pipes (thank you, Kato) into my SD70ACEs.

As many of you are aware, they tinted the pipes yellow to correct for their bluish LED. But when one puts in the DCC board, which has a sunny white LED (which Kato professes to know nothing about) the lights were a sickly yellow.

To their credit, they ran a batch in clear styrene and are offering it through their parts department at a nominal cost. Here's a before and after:



And another:



A warning: replacing these is not for the faint of heart. It requires complete shell disassembly and reassembly, and if you're not comfortable doing that, enjoy the yellow.

You'll note the missing bezel on the headlight of the converted unit; that little bugger can hide in some exasperating places. (I did find it after the third conversion and the loco now has it's bezel back.) Three down, four to go.

 

Jim, do you have a step by step suggestion for the best way to take the shells apart? I have about 15 to do and have had the shells apart before but think someone else has probably got a better method. Bob.

 

Does anybody know if these will also fit the revised SD70M? It also has the yellow tinted lights. I emailed Kato but didn't get a reply.

 

I don't think so as I purchased 70-m glass sets to try and solve the ACe problems, will not fit that way. Bob

 

Jim, after 5 I think I am down to about 10 min each. Biggest thing to remember is to remove the headlight casting first and put it in a good place, had to chase 2 on the floor. Bob.

 

Yeah, Bob.

Once you've done a few it gets real easy.

The ACes are very different for Kato - it's like everything they learned over the years came together in this shell. It comes off the chassis much more easily than earlier models, and everything seems to just click in place elegantly. Once you get past the squeamishness of bending plastic to allow parts to mesh you are just fine. That bezel is probably the trickiest part because it's so small and has a tendency to hide. And bounce.

I kept expecting to have truck problems after reassembly but everything went well. I'm still not sold on that truck design, but they've got the shell down pat. Kato has some VERY smart engineers working the design part.

The main reason it took me so long is all but one were in staging but had to come out anyway so I could install more signals. Completed the last ACe yesterday afternoon...almost wish I had more to do! I like jobs like that.

 

Well if you really want to, I will send you my 24 ACe's if that will help make you feel better:mbiggrin:

 

Sounds like you are about to begin building. Good Luck! (I cleaned Bob out of the D type masts...but there are still searchlight types available...)

 

Here's the latest set of signals on the Sub. Signals have also been added at the Oakville yard throat and the north end of the Caliente crossovers.



Next step (while waiting for more TrainCat signal mast frets): integrating a CML SIGM20. The SIGM20 won out over the Team Digital SIC24AD because of the ease of connectability. This should be fun. And then I get to integrate the whole mess with the Digitrax BDL 168 - which means, in essence, rewiring the whole south room.

 

What if...all the trains on the Sub had to be gotten out of staging and the south room?









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Just that needed to happen as I rewire the main in the south room to allow for detection and operating signals. I didn't plan ahead when I originally built the layout.

BUT...I made sure I could get at anything I needed to, even in seemingly impossible places.

The project is about half done now (in this room anyway) and the most difficult part is behind me.

I know the train positions aren't prototypical, but they needed to be that close to fit them all in.

 

Hey Jim, at least you didn't have to remove the cars individually! Its like how I clean up down here, move something over there to clean over here!!

Looking great BTW