Having recently received my various sets of HOn3 bedding tracks that Blackstone has come out with so far, the need for shorter pieces of straights (at least) soon became clear to me. My already very limited space for a layout can't be utilized optimally with just the two versions of track that have so far become available, one curve and one straight. So I decided to take the plunge and to try making my own shorter sections. The most urgent need was for a length of around 13 centimeters. As the unijoiners should remain functional, this meant cutting a full length section into three pieces, then joining the end ones with regular track joiners. Going just a few millimeters beyond the 13 cm goal has allowed to cut the sections in such a way that the tie spacing is maintained. In order to optimize the optical impression, only very much shortened track joiners could be used. I cleared a bit of tie material from under the rails with a drill to allow for slightly longer joiners. To provide the desired stability and functionality, I then glued the two sections together, adding a piece of styrene underneath to provide some additional strength. The picture shows both sides of such shortened sections, compared with a regular length section piece. The whole procedure is a bit tricky as the rails and their fastening are rather flimsy. The main fixation of the rails on the bedding is achieved by somewhat odd looking clamping that can be seen between tie four and five on each end. As soon as one cuts through a piece of rail that disconnects it from that clamping, it moves freely. The tie plates virtually don't provide any major stability. For that reason, I first destroyed some pieces as the rails deformed so readily. So to me, taking refuge to making one's own shorter pieces is definitely not the way to go in the long run to keep the Blackstone track program attractive and to allow enlarging the customer base. However, it would be very costly to come up with lots of different length pieces of straight track. My suggestion would be to produce a piece of about one inch in length. That would then allow individual combinations of a lot of different lengths. Granted, it would be a bit costly for customers if one has to assemble the desired length out of say five or six pieces. Such a piece would likely not be much cheaper than a full length section. But by coming up with such a short piece, customers would gain lots of flexibility, and there would most likely be a high enough demand for such pieces that they could be sold at acceptable costs. I should add that the shortest pieces one can reasonably produce oneself with the method used here would be 7 cm in length; the limit being set by the factory clamping mentioned above. So for my need of about a 6 cm extension, I will have to resort to doing two pieces that will combine to about 29 cm (about 23 of a regular straight section plus 6).
Robert, You are right about Blackstone needing shorter pieces of straight. Honestly, in your case, I would use regular Code 70 track pieces in between the Protraxx rather than try to cut down and splice together the Protraxx. One of the benefits of the Kato Unitrack system is the very short piece assortment that lets you make minor adjustments to keep track alignment. We should contact Blackstone in an effort to have them also make a short piece assortment. Andy Tetsu Uma
A short piece assortment could be very useful. In N scale, I have still found a need to cut down Kato Unitrack a few times, even though they have such an assorted package. So you'll probably never quite eliminate the need, or have all those lengths desired.
Andy, I'm not sure whether you are aware about how I'm using these tracks. They are not integrated into a permanent landscaped layout where differences in appearance can be covered up. In my case the tracks are used on a non landscaped, semi permanent layout. Thus, they need to be sturdy just like the other tracks, and I do not want them to look much different. But it's mostly just the universality in use that I want. So I don't see how the track pieces you mention could fit in, and how they could be easily connected, but in a way that can also be easily disconnected again.
I've been giving this some though and perhaps you could mount (with glue) the regular Code 70 track pieces that you need to some stacked pieces of cork (glued together) or a thin piece of wood. Then join it to the Protraxx with regular railjoiners. That way you get the height you need. Just a thought I've been having. Andy
If the two pieces were soldered together, would that be sturdy enough? It would seem to me that should work?
Well, maybe it would. But I think my version is still sturdier, and it definitely looks better under the conditions I run my trains. Maybe these conditions should be nicknamed "tracks in the nude". :teeth:
Hello swissboy, While I haven't shortened any BSM HOn3 track, I have on several occasions, shortened both Kato N scale UniTrack and Tillig TT scale Bedding Track. I determine the length of finished track I need, then using a mitre box and Zona saw, I make the necessary cuts (in the plastic roadbed only, not through the rails), being sure to allow for the saw's kerf. Then I carefully remove the waste section of the roadbed, and slide the two end pieces together on the rails, gluing them and reinforcing the joint with a thick piece of styrene, much like you have shown in your photo, This leaves the full length of rail intact with some of it sticking out at one or both ends of the shortened roadbed (depending on where each rail is "peened" to keep it from sliding out of the original roadbed altogether). Once the glue at the splice has cured, I cut the offending rail ends off with a pair of rail nippers, and dress any burrs with a small needle file. This way, there is a solid piece of rail throughout the whole piece of shortened track, so it remains quite strong, similar to an uncut piece, and the roadbed's UniJoiner ends are untouched. Bill in FtL
Thanks Bill for this interesting alternative. I must admit that a solid piece of rail may have its advantages. But when I glued the pieces together, I made sure I added some glue under the short joiners as well. So there is a fairly solid attachment midway through.
