Thanks Boxcab! That's just the panel. Somehow I have to determine best practices for rewiring the detection blocks. I've done a lot of reading about setup of these components, but nothing is focused on my layout. I'm going to have to modify general knowledge for my specific application. Any wiring gurus out there that have some vacation time? And you want to come help me? A little at a time.....hopefully sooner than the last major update.
Here we go. Found the right button that allows pic upload from my mobile device. Added color to the drawings to help show where the DCC 'reversing section' is located on my layout. Lower level staging. "Outlier Yard" The hash marks indicate where I plan to isolate/ separate for detection. Any help or advise on locating these gaps is appreciated. I figured these as best I know how, but there might be better options. Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk
I've just read through - nice stories. I like your commitment to making the build something like your head plans - me, I've tended to end up with a head plan a computer plan, a paper plan, and then some stuff that got built! Like you, I like to doodle the plans a lot. Sometimes befuddles me as to what I'm trying to achieve. I'm wildly jealous of your rigour with the wiring fixes. No way I'm ever showing my spaghetti bowl in public! Cheers Donald Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
I'm excited!! I got the wiring for the components under the layout powered. No track is currently connected, so no trains are running, but not seeing smoke and the breaker tripping makes me feel good.
I hate doing wiring!! But I guess I'm stuck with the task of soldering feeders and connecting to buss wires. I don't know any manufacturers that have built operating N-scale versions of actual internal combustion engines. That might be the next breakthrough in our hobby. I decided to get some trains running this evening. I clipped the wires close to the previously installed buss wire under Outlier Yard. I then went back and started from scratch to keep things more organized. These are the tools I use for attaching feeders to the buss lines. The tool with the blue handles grips, strips, and spreads the insulation away from the core. Then I use the small screwdriver to make a loop in the stranded copper wire. I then insert the stripped end of the feeder wire thru that hole, and wrap the wires together. I made connections between my panel and my boosters as my plan requires, and also made temporary connections between components with 6conductor cables. I need to purchase a kit and tester to make my own custom length cables for this part. I had to go clean my track as it had been unused for a while. When I turned everything on, WOW!! IT'S ALIVE. I successfully ran my locomotive and cleaner car back and forth the length of the yard. I'll have to go make a few adjustments to switch stands, but I was happy to have it work properly. Speaking of switch stands: I use Peco turnouts with Caboose Industries manual ground throws in the yard area. (Other areas I have installed Peco electric switch motors- this will allow me to throw them remotely with my handheld throttle). I wanted all "stands" to be close to the edge of the benchwork. The ladders have the "stands" mounted close to avoid confusion trying to find the correct one when doing switching ops. I use the extensions from Peco tabletop mount kits for the #2 track. The far back turnouts required a different solution. I cut music wire (hobby product bought at Hobby Lobby) for these. I bent the ends to fit the holes in the ground throws/ turnouts and routed it under the track through wire insulation to avoid shorting out the track. When I ballast the yard, these wires/ insulation should become inconspicuous. These efforts will hopefully have me making more progress sooner than later. I'm looking forward to running trains again. Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk
Just a thought.... That long wire for those back turnouts. You used short pieces of wire insulation to go under the tracks. Just thinking...when you ballast the ballast and glue will get all over the wire between tracks where there is NO Insulation to run the wire through! Might wanna see if you can put a full length piece of insulation under all those tracks...from the ground throw right to the turnout. That would keep that switch working with it getting fouled. JMO.
That's a good idea. I may go back and change that. It probably won't be wire insulation either. It wasn't easy to remove long lengths when I tried it before. I have some shrink wrap tubing that would function better. The insulation, as is, is a little thicker than the plastic ties so it lifts the tracks in that area. The heat shrink will flatten as well as keep it insulated. Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk
I haven't made great progress on my layout lately, but I do get a few things accomplished. As my electrical plan changed to include occupancy detection, I have recently determined where gaps need to be cut. I was able to use my long dormant Dremel for that project. When adding gaps into already existing trackage, there may not be feeder wires attached to all new sections of track. I have been locating and preparing for the next task of adding more feeder wires. With my goal of being able to incorporate JMRI into my planned operations, I have been working on a panel that shows existing track that I have laid. I am learning that JMRI has a rather steep learning curve. But I shall persevere. Maybe it will work as intended when I get it connected to my layout and the Digitrax system I using to run trains with. My JMRI "Panel Editor" panel Outlier Yard (and beyond to the right) as "Dark Territory" will be switched using Caboose Industries ground throws. The spur that comes off the 'blob' will be future switching area. Please disregard the "extra pieces" off to the side. I have learned to keep extras at hand to not have to chase down track segments in the "Item Pallet". The yellow number boxes indicate where Peco switch machines are installed. These will be connected to Digitrax DS64 accessory decoders to allow for computer or throttle controlled activation. I hope to have the ability to click on the number boxes to have the switch operate. If I have set up this panel correctly, when a loco/ train enters a block, the lines should change color depending on different "states" of the section. I still have a lot to learn and program with this panel. The computer programming aspect of this hobby gives me the opportunity to make progress even when it is too hot in the garage to make any physical effort. What a great hobby!!
My most recent hobby purchase was thru Shapeways. I decided long ago that Atlas track bumpers are too big. As this layout is teaching me to try new things, I bought a set of scale track bumpers. Here they are painted up and ready to be installed. Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk
