Hi all, I'm making the switch from Z to N scale and could use a little advice please as I start to acquire locos and rolling stock. 1. I want to remotely uncouple cars, likely using an (electro?) magnet under the track. Are MTL couplers the best choice for this please? Don't think I can stretch budget to DCC controlled actuators on every car. 2. I've got a Kato GS-4 in the black excursion color scheme, and would like to get a set of passenger cars for it to pull. Not too worried about road names and numbers, but would prefer them to be brown, gray, black, or another not-too-bright color. Any recommendations please on which brands produce nice quality passenger cars, that I'm likely to be able to find a new set of vs. trying to piece together used ones? 3. I noticed the MTL passenger cars mostly have 3 axles per truck. Are these likely to handle a 10-11" radius curve without derailing? (I appreciate they'll overhang a lot - the curve will be hidden behind scenery). 4. I've run into the spookshow site and found it rather helpful in helping me shortlist locos. However, I'm having a really hard time finding new old stock of some of the discontinued models. A couple I like the look of are the Bachmann Spectrum heavy mountain, or light mountain 2012 revised model (I can only seem to find the early light mountain model which seems to be poorly reviewed). Also really like the Kato Mikado, but so far have not found a single one for sale that's production run 2 or 3. Are these solid choices, and/or anything else I should look into please? Challengers & Big Boys are probably a bit big for this layout, and I'd like to keep to around $200/loco or thereabouts. Prefer to buy new, used from a reputable source would be ok though. 5. I'd like to pick up a small tender-less switcher or two for yard operations. Does anyone still make an 0-4-0 or 0-6-0 steam switcher or is going used my only option? Would be open to kits, kitbashing, etc. Appreciate that's a lot of questions to be asking, any advice would be much appreciated.
Hi Taymar, In my opinion Micro-Trains couplers do work the best. For N scale Electro-Magnet uncoupling see this page from Mike Fifer http://www.fiferhobby.com/micro-trains-n-scale-tools-parts-and-lubes/ There are many manufacturers who make N scale passenger cars besides MTL. Unfortunately N scale tends to be limited run production in this day and age. Some other manufacturers that make N scale passenger cars are Atlas, Bachmann, Con-Cor and Kato. Bachmann makes several steam locomotives and one of them is a 0-6-0 steam switcher. At one time they also made a 0-4-0, you maybe able to find one second hand. Mark at the Spookshow does list a few other manufacturers who once produced 0-4-0 steam switchers, but all of them will only be available second hand and some may be poor performers. Steam is not that well represented in N scale, there have been a few models made by Kato, Bachmann Broadway limited and I think even Jason at Rapido might be working on a N scale steam locomotive. Good luck in your quest To answer question #3, most N scale products will negotiate a 11" radius curve and quite a few will negotiate a 9.75" radius curve.
I would caution not to select your locomotives on price. You will end up with junk. 2-8-4 Berkshires are as big as you really want to go with 9.7t radius. I would recommend the aBachman 2-8-0 Consolidation for my switcher and Kato Mikado to start. I would stay away from long wheel bases and articulated. Challengers and Cabforwards can be trouble.
There is a model of a 2-6-0 and 4-6-0 out there that are probably more reliable than the 0-6-0 and 0-4-0 versions. MT is the maker of the remote undertrack uncoupling system and Wheels of Time have some nice passenger cars that are 60 footers. Spookshow's site also has a listing of the passenger cars that were made. If you are not adverse to an early diesel switcher there is the 44 and 70 ton switchers that would fit in the steam era.
Thank you all, appreciate the guidance. Couple of follow up questions please- Interesting point on the limited runs in this day and age. Matches what I've been seeing. Is N scale in decline due to other scales, or the hobby in general? If I went with say Atlas or wheels of time cars, is swapping trucks/couplers to MTL straightforward? (I did this on my Z scale rolling stock). Assuming N sees the same benefits as Z, I'd like to switch all plastic wheels to metal. I've used full throttle and fox valley brands for Z; is there a good choice for N please? I appreciate the guidance on max size locos and other switcher options. Regarding the Kato mikado, should I hold out trying to find a 2nd or 3rd production run model, or can the first run versions be updated to equivalent reliability/performance? Lastly, if this breaks vendor rules please disregard - aside from eBay are there any major sources to find quality used N scale gear please? Or if allowable via private message, I'd also appreciate any recommendations on where to get new stuff too. Had all my favorites for Z but many of them don't carry N. Thank you all so much once again, the advice is a huge help.
Some superstars in N scale steam: Kato Mikado (I have some 1st gen ones, and they all run just fine for me... idk what the deal is) Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 and Heavy 4-8-2 Model Power (New ones!) 2-8-2, 4-6-2, and 2-6-0 The new PRR offerings from Bachmann and Broadway Limited I model steam era, and my 2 best runners are a Kato mike and a Bachmann 2-8-0, hands down, though I have an H5 2-6-6-2 which is also a beautiful runner. Between wanting to run 8 coupled steam and long passenger cars, I'd stick with a 12-13 inch radius at minimum, particularly longer wheelbase steam like the GS4 or the heavy 4-8-2. Good luck, and be sure to ask any questions you might have. The swap meet forum here is a great place to buy and sell!
Are you going to use DC or DCC? The Kato Mike is an exceptionally good runner, BUT it is a bear to convert to DCC. It also needs the traction-tire wheelsets to pull a decent number of cars. The current run of Bachmann 2-8-0's has a dual-mode DC/DCC decoder in them. I've found that dual-mode decoders rarely work very well on DC. They tend to require very high start voltages and do not produce very smooth operation in DC mode. If you are going to use DC, I'd either stay away from dual-mode decoders (that means the current production of Bachmann DCC steamers and BLI's Pennsy steam) or be prepared to strip out the decoder and convert the engine to DC-only. MRC/Model Power's newest engines can be had in DC-only versions or DCC versions and they are excellent. For a small layout, the MRC/MP 4-6-2 would be an excellent engine, and could be paired with either 60' passenger cars or 40' freight cars from the 1930's - 1940's. If your layout will be DC, the Kato Mikado (with traction tires) would also be superb. If you are doing DCC, the MRC/MP 4-6-2 in DCC version, the Bachmann 10-wheeler (4-6-0) or Consolidation (2-8-0) DCC versions would also be excellent for a smaller layout with small-ish curve radii. For wheels, many manufacturers have already switched to metal wheelsets. For replacement wheels, I prefer Fox Valley Models, but they are out of stock nearly everywhere, awaiting a re-run when the China manufacturing situation is all sorted out. But I wouldn't worry too much about wheels - the MT plastic wheels are very good, and replacing wheelsets would be at the bottom of my list after locomotives, rolling stock, track, and couplers. You didn't say anything about track, which is going to be one of your most important decisions. For "most realistic looking," Atlas Code 55 would probably be my choice, but the Atlas turnouts tend to be fragile and might need some tinkering (particularly the #5's) to work correctly. I think the absolute best combo on track for both operation and looks is Atlas Code 55 flex with hand-made turnouts using Fast Tracks jigs/tools. If you want track that is nearly indestructible and operationally excellent, go with Peco Code 55 "Fine Scale" track. The tie spacing is European instead of North American, but unless you directly compare it to Atlas Code 55, you won't notice it, particularly after painting/ballasting. And Peco's switch design, which uses spring-loaded points, means you don't need to add switch machines or ground throws if you don't want to. If you want bullet-proof track that is easy to get up and running, and aren't concerned about the flexibility of using flex track and are forgiving of overall appearance, Kato's UniTrack is the way to go. You can start with Unitrack, and then graduate to flex later, and sell the Unitrack for almost what you paid for it (it's a little harder to use MT magnets, particularly eletromagnets) for remote uncoupling, but it can be done with some ingenuity). Finally, I'd note that there are downsides to using magnetic remote uncoupling. It rarely works as well as it should, or as well as you might think it ought to. Getting it to work right even 90% of the time takes a lot of fiddling with both the coupler trip-pin height and the magnet placement. Most of the operations-oriented layouts I've visited (in both HO and N scale) use picks to do manual uncoupling - much more reliable, and actually more realistic unless you're operating a hump yard! John C.
The Kato Mike is not actually that bad a DCC install. It was my 1st hardwired decoder install ever, and took me about 30 minutes. I used an ESU LokPilot v4 Micro, desoldered the 6 pin plug, and simply followed the directions found here. The Bachmann 2-8-0 is harder IMO, but you can use the methods described in the article linked below on any steamer that has a separate circuit board for the headlight and an isolated motor. http://www.wiringfordcc.com/nkato_mikado.htm
Thanks again all. I apologize, it seems I had the Kato Mikados and Bachmann Light Mountains mixed up - The mountains were the ones Spookshow rated the first run of poorly, Mikados less so. The layout will be exclusively DCC; I'm planning to reuse most of my digitrax gear. I'm comfortable with replacing decoders if needed (have done this a few times on z scale steam locos.) I've got some track on order, just checked and luckily it is atlas code 55. Flex track plus a couple of #10 turnouts so far. Thank you very much for the advice there & on the metal wheels. I was afraid they'd be affected by the factory shutdown, but good to know the plastic versions are pretty good. I've used Peco HO in the past & been very happy with it so definitely open to checking that out too. Appreciate the advice on the remote decoupling too. My ultimate goal would be to have an automated JMRI controlled switching yard, but that's in no way a requirement for day 1. Thank you for the heads-up on that, I will certainly experiment before I nail anything down to see if I can even get it to a reliability level I'm comfortable with. The locomotive advice has been awesome here too - There's some great suggestions here that I hadn't necessarily considered. Lots of research to do. Thanks a ton, I can see I'm already going to avoid some of the missteps I made in Z scale due to this fantastic advice.
Hi hi Taymar. Peco N scale track and switches are wonderfully bulletproof. Not as fine in appearance as Atlas or ME track, but built to withstand a bomb and priced right. Kato Unitrack is the ultimate in easy, foolproof track systems if you don't mind ballasting and weathering it! I see you got No 10 turnouts; those are very large radius. Can I ask why you wanted to use so large a radius turnout, yet smallish radius curves?
Thank you for the tip - is it possible to mix atlas flex track with Peco switches, or a bad idea (aside from the tie spacing differences) No good reason to have ordered #10's. Partial ignorance on my part (sounds like I've just learned that the lower the number, the tighter the turnout?), and #10's were the only size that were in stock in both left and right versions at the time.Only grabbed one of each, so am not committed to using them on the final layout by any means. Thinking back a couple of decades to when I had a OO set, I recall being told by the hobby shop that the Peco streamline track couldn't be cleaned in the same way as other brands of non-flex track. I recall having a gray 'rail eraser' block for the Peco stuff and a bottle of solvent with a cloth pad on top for the rest of the track. Is there any truth to this? I'd like to be able to use the same method of cleaning for all the track on the layout. Also, I am starting to look for a set of passenger cars, ideally appropriate to 1940's PRR. Looks like Atlas Kato made a nice 10-car set, but they seem to be extremely rare now. Have found a couple of cars here and there from MTL, but nothing like a runner pack. Wondering if there are any brands I may be overlooking? Potentially open to repainting and re-decalling another set as PRR though would prefer not to. thanks again all!
MTL released a 5-car PRR heavyweight runner pack 993-01-460 in November 2016. Also, 3-car PRR heavyweight runner packs 993-00-054 in August 2011 and 993-00-055 in September 2011. These are in addition to other individual cars. Several decades ago, Rivarossi produced heavyweight cars sold under the Atlas and, later, Arnold brand names. If 1948+ is not too late for you, several years ago Kato made a streamlined Broadway Limited train released as a 10-car set plus a 4-car add-on set. https://www.katousa.com/N/Broadway/index.html Intermountain Railway/Centralia Car Shops also produces various streamlined cars. https://www.intermountain-railway.com/distrib/ccs/ccsn.htm Con-Cor was also an earlier source for various streamlined cars.
Fantastic, thank you! The Kato Broadway set was the one I'd seen and looks like a great fit, just haven't found any yet. Greatly appreciate the other suggestions here, had not seen intermountain, and looks like they have several great options. Thanks again - such a wealth of information here.
Regarding the purchasing of used equipment, I recommend local train shows. There, you can try out any locomotive before you buy it. N Scale Supply also has a big listing of used equipment. I rarely buy anything with a motor in it from eBay anymore. There are also some good diesel switchers to consider, like the Atlas S2, and the Bachmann S4 which comes with a factory installed decoder.
Yes, you can use Peco switches with Atlas track; in fact, many people do exactly that, as Atlas track is more prototypical for US railroads, but Peco switches are higher quality. Using Atlas flex with Peco switches is a "best of both worlds" sort of thing. As far as those No 10s, keep them! They work great for crossovers on mains lines! Most people go too small with turnouts; I feel no 6/7 is the minimum to use with 8 coupled steam.
Note that mating Atlas Code 55 track to Peco Code 55 switches is NOT all that easy. The reason is that Peco Code 55 is really a Code 80 rail which is "buried" in somewhat-thicker ties so that only a Code 55 profile is visible. This is why Peco's Code 55 track is nearly indestructible - it doesn't rely on tiny plastic "spikes" to hold the rail in place. We've used Peco Code 55 on Ntrak modules precisely because it's the only thing that can hold up to the regular beating modules take. But mating Peco Code 55 to Atlas (or ME) Code 55 means that you are mating a Code 80 rail (Peco) to a true Code 55 rail. That means you can't just slip on a rail joiner on both ends and be done. Instead, the more or less "accepted" way of doing this is to put a rail joiner on the Peco track, then "flatten" the free end of the joiner and solder the Code 55 Atlas to the top of the flattened joiner. The other way to do it is to file off the bottom part of the Peco track so that only the Code 55 profile is left, and put the rail joiner on that. But with either technique, you'll have to shim up the bottom of the Atlas flex track, because the Atlas track overall is significantly thinner than the Peco. This can result in "humps" in the track if you're not careful. So while it CAN be done (and I've done it myself), it's not something I'd recommend for someone starting in N scale. Much easier to use all Peco Code 55 if you are going to go that route, or use all Atlas (or a combination of Atlas and Micro-Engineering) Code 55. Mating Peco switches to Atlas Code 80 flex IS quite easy, but Atlas Code 80 track doesn't look any better than Peco from a tie-spacing standpoint and isn't as well made. Better to use Peco Code 55 flex with Peco Code 55 switches. John C.
See, I did NOT know the specifics of this. Thanks much! As I live in Europe, it's pretty much Peco or Kato Unitrack for me so I have never tried it. Perhaps some day I will spring for some ME track.
Thanks for the insight! My trackwork is amateur at best. I've been trying out Anyrail track planning software today and noticed that (at least in the software) Peco seems to have some pretty elaborate-looking pieces like double crossovers, 3 way turnouts and double slips etc. when compared to the Atlas range. Since they appear more advanced/complex, are there any Peco pieces I should steer clear of, or is all the finescale code 55 stuff solid? thanks again.
