Stripping paint from plastic

My question seems so trivial in the face of all that happened, but our hobby is a refuge from the horror and it distracts me from the insanity of it all. I am re-painting some locomotives and cars for my branchline and need to know the latest safe technique for stripping paint form plastic shells. Last thing i ever used was brake fluid, but i know that is risky. Any help here? Curt

 

Curt,
I use "ELO" Easy Lift Off made by Polly S (Polly Scale paints). And works the best and does a fine job!!! Give it a try and see what happens... Also safe on most plastics and paint.. Now don't get me wrong Bachmann paint is something else I don't think its good on their paint but its worth a try...

[ 13 September 2001: Message edited by: 7600EM_1 ]</p>

 

I've found certain strippers are more effective, and safer, on certain plastics than others. I've safely stripped Kato shells with Chameleon brand stripper, and have also been told that Easy-Off oven cleaner and Pine-Sol are effective on their shells. Best stuff to use on P2k is 91% isopropyl alcohol; cheap, readily available at most drugstores, and a 100% clean, quick, safe strip. Athearns I've stripped with Polly-S ELO and Chameleon.

 

Thanks for info guys. Pine sol is what i was trying to remember-got some from the dollar store already and put several shells to soaking. Some of the bad paint i tried is already coming off. If that doesn't work on all of the factory paint, i'll try some of the "classier" stuff you recommend. The brand of rolling stock i'm stripping is IHC if that helps for other suggestions. I'm not set up yet where i can use my air brush-has anybody tried testors' model spray paints? Thanks again for further suggestions. Curt

 

Curt,
Glad to help.. Its something I knew and do all the time so I thought I'd pass on the technique...

 

My dollar store generic Pine Sol takes the IHC factory paint off beautifully. I let stuff soak overnite and plastic did not disolve or get soft-love that stuff! I soaked a couple diesel shells i had painted with metallic enamel as well-it is coming loose slower, but still is coming loose. I see why primer is so good to use-it holds on tight and releases more slowly than factory paint in the Pine Sol-i'm guessing it's safe to soak another day in it. Curt

 

I'll put money on the ELO for the Atlas paint. I have yet to see it not work.... Although it works on Bachmann but takes longer to do so but it works....

 

I will definately have to swear by the Pine Sol method. I bought a bottle of the generic stuff that had five percent more pine oil than the brand name.

I soaked an Atlas and Model Power shell overnight - the all it takes is a soft bristled toothbrush to get into the nooks and crannies.

Now those Burlington Northern GP40s that I picked up for a song will be flying Conrail Blue in no time... (Or maybe paint them as part of the Ballast Express...)

Joseph

 

<font color="336633">Whats gets the paint of Kato locos? as I will be repainting all my locos I would like to get down to bare plastic.

oh one more thing it has to be avalible in the UK </font>

 

Hi Matt,

I've stripped Kato's with Chameleon brand stripper, made by Custom Hobbyist, Inc. They're listed in the Walthers catalog (at least last year's, haven't checked the 2002), so there might be a chance you can get it across the pond. Several other modelers I know have reported success using Easy-Off oven cleaner, and Pine-Sol household cleaner, but I don't know about the availability of those in the UK. Good luck!

 

Attn: rmathos,

Myself I'm not a big fan of using spray cans. Seems to come out too thick. However if you soak it a bit in hot water(keep the nozzle out of the water) before use it sprays nicer and thinner also. Keep in mind too use light passes of paint, you can always make another pass. I always try and just put enough on that you can still see through the 1st coat. I do this not only with trains but 1:1 scale aircraft too.

Duane