Starting again

purple1 Nov 25, 2014

  1. purple1

    purple1 TrainBoard Member

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    Hi all,
    it's been some time since I was here. Life kind of got in the way of everything. But I'm going to try and start a new layout. I will never make something again that can not be moved easy. To that end I have started my first section of the layout. I'm starting with a yard area. This first section is 2'x8' and will be my own modular design. Using code 55 Atlas track and will connect together with Anderson Power Pole connectors. Not much to see yet, I just built a frame with 1x3 and covered it with 1/4" plywood I had left over. It is sturdy yet light enough to move around. I made legs 48 inches high, but I may re-make them. Seems to be a little too high for me to be comfortable with like that.

    I still have my old little 2 1/2'x4' layout setup, but it is covered with junk right now and I can't use it. So I want to build something to get trains running again. I got a bunch of supplies saved up for this and need to use them up. For now here are some pics of my little old layout.

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  2. rogergperkins

    rogergperkins TrainBoard Member

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    I attempt to model B&O and focus on the steam era.
    I did the first part of my "dream" layout in modules 8' long and either 2 or 4' wide.
    I did L-girder bench work with plywood base. Bolted legs to bench work.
    Was able to model the layout several times within Woodbury, MN over a 28 year span.
    I would NOT do plywood again. It is an "overkill" for n-scale in my opinion. Extruded polystyrene foam 2 inch thick is what I plan for my next layout if we ever get relocated in the second phase of our retirement. :)
     
  3. purple1

    purple1 TrainBoard Member

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    I thought about using foam, and may on other modules, but I had this 1/4 inch plywood just laying around so I used it. This will make a perfect yard platform as well. I will not make a bigger module than this one. 16 square feet is my limit. So 4x4 or 2x8 or smaller modules are what I am shooting for. I think a 4x8 is just too big for one person to move around without risking damage in my opinion.
     
  4. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Unless you can create something clever such as a tiltable design, on rollers. One fellow did this, and showed it in our "Challengers Group" several years ago.
     
  5. YoHo

    YoHo TrainBoard Supporter

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    My first n scale layout was a 2x8 standard dogbone. I still miss that layout.

    In other words, I think 2x8 is a wonderful size.
     
  6. rogergperkins

    rogergperkins TrainBoard Member

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    We had plenty of room in our basement for my dream layout.
    Not so now. Had smaller one in spare bedroom.
    Still used 4x8' connected to two shelf sections.
    I would not use shelf sections in a future layout.
    I can assure you that I was able to assemble and disassemble the previous layouts 8' modules without any assistance.
    My layouts have been zero grade and extruded polystyrene foam has been used for any hills, so overall they layout is light weight.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 25, 2014
  7. LOU D

    LOU D TrainBoard Member

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    Long is always better than wide..
     
  8. rogergperkins

    rogergperkins TrainBoard Member

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    Based on experience with my home layouts from 1975 forward, I like the 4x8 foot sized module.
    When we had enough space in our basement, I used three 2x8 foot modules between a 4x8 foot and 4x14 foot module.
    I concluded that was as much layout and track work that I could properly maintain in satisfactory working order.
    This was the start of my "dream" layout which I had hoped to work on by adding more detail during my retirement.
    I had to downsize the layout.
     
  9. purple1

    purple1 TrainBoard Member

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    I understand making a bigger module is OK with most of you. But for me if I need something bigger than 16 square feet, say 4x8 or more, I'm going to break it up into smaller modules.

    Last night I was digging out my supplies. I had forgot how much stuff I really had. Here is a quick list of code 55 track and accessories.

    1 21.25r/15r left
    1 21.25r/15r right
    1 #10 right
    4 #7 left
    4 #7 right
    2 #5 left
    2 #5 right
    1 2.5 wye
    1 30* crossing
    1 22.5* crossing
    6 6" re-railer
    6 6" straight
    24 4.25" straight
    25 30" flex
    4 packs rail joiners (metal)
    1 pack rail joiners (plastic)
    15 Caboose Industries 224S
    1 Atlas under-table switch machine

    I also have a bunch of code 80 stuff I could use in hidden areas if I needed. This should be enough to get started. I don't have software to draw layouts and could use some help with this 2x8 yard. Could someone here help me?

    Edit: I forgot to mention, I'm using the 4.25" straight track to join modules.
     
  10. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

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    One might consider the hollow core door which comes in a number of widths and most at 6' 6". Advantage is that it is lightweight and the 28 and 30 inch widths handle the reach issue. Also tucks in most short bed pick-ups and vans. Several can be joined together for larger layouts. The use of lightweight foam for most of the terrain features also keeps it manageable. Also Ntrak modules can be another way to go.
     
  11. purple1

    purple1 TrainBoard Member

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    I considered the hollow door(s). I would rather build my own modules to fit. I will be using both sheet and spray foam with plaster cast covering for terrain. My modules will not be conforming to Ntrak or any other standards. They only need to fit together and be movable if needed. I am doing a double main line, I don't think any standard fits this using code 55 rail.
     
  12. Sodapop

    Sodapop New Member

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    Free-moN? Code 55 and Single or Double line option. If I ever made home style modules I would make an interchange that fit Free-moN or Ntrak. Most likely both just for fun but I'm leaning towards Free-moN.
     
  13. purple1

    purple1 TrainBoard Member

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    I don't know of any Free-moN in my area. Ntrack is not even close to what I want to do.

    I know this is crude but here is what I have come up with after downloading AnyRail.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Hey...that looks pretty much like the south end of Lucky Penny Yard !! :cool:

    [​IMG]

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  15. purple1

    purple1 TrainBoard Member

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    I see a double crossover just past the yard. I am going to do the same thing on the next section of mine the same way, just past my yard.
     
  16. purple1

    purple1 TrainBoard Member

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    Quick questions. I have 2 #5 lefts, 2 #5 rights and a 22.5* crossover. I plugged it into AnyRail and it looks like it works. Can I put this together and make a double crossover using some flex? Has anyone done this and have it work?
     

    Attached Files:

  17. purple1

    purple1 TrainBoard Member

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    So far track bed is down. Now comes the fun stuff.

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  18. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Did you try that double crossover experiment? Did it work?
     
  19. purple1

    purple1 TrainBoard Member

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    I put it together and it sure looks like it will work. That's how I come up with my main track spacing as well. It works out to ~2 1/16 center to center. I'm going to make a 2x4 section next and install it.

    Can someone tell me how to wire a double crossover? Looks like I may need some kind of automatic reverse controller? If so, what will I need?
     
  20. purple1

    purple1 TrainBoard Member

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    I have added a little to the layout. I have built the 2x4 section with the crossover. I still need to wire up the frogs. And I think I have figured out how to use the reverser units on this.

    So far I have one 8 foot section. 2 4 foot sections and 2 corners built. I still need to put track on one corner and I am working on the third corner framing now. I will need one more corner to make an 8x16 20180129_212843.jpg 20180129_212916.jpg 20180129_212931.jpg 20180129_212953.jpg 20180129_213214.jpg 20180129_213259.jpg oval. Then I will put it all together and start testing.

    I have also finished the DCC setup.
     
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