Nov 18, 2018
The lighting looks great on those units Richard
My first layout module is now under way.
Here I am mocking up 13.75” and 15” radius curves on a drawn out 36.5” x 18” module before cutting.
Cut the plywood with my jigsaw
I used a inexpensive electric carving knife to cut the foam, (it cuts fast and easy) and a jigsaw to cut the 5mm plywood.
I used foam bonding glue found in the construction section, comes ready to use with a caulk gun.
Put weights on it and we will see how it looks in the morning!
I left the foam a little long intentionally so I can trim it up after the glue dries.
I see somebody raided the pantry! Nice to see the progress.
I forgot to rough up the foam with the brush and I must have put the PL300 on too thin because the corners weren’t stuck down this morning. I’ll have to look at it tonight and possibly redo it instead of doing the other one.
I hate it when that happens.
I did have to Reglue the edges. Then I placed it foamside down on the floor and my daughter and I walked on it to make sure it was pressed down firmly this time. Then we did it again 15 minutes later again...
I also added the underside bracing (1x2 which is really 0.75 thick) to the rear with countersunk screws, but then lost the pack of screws I just bought to attach the front brace. (Ugh!)
That plus the 2” foam should make it only 5mm taller than the correct 2.75” height.
So no second module tonight, but the first should be done soon.
The second one is drying now, I glued the rails on with titebond 3, and then screws in the corners. Once dry I will countersink the screw heads.
I still need to drill out to install the 8-32 t nuts (the recommended size was stupid huge) and then I have flat head machine screws with felt sticky pads for feet if needed.
The top still looks like pink foam... a flat wasteland of peptobismal pink. So much pink, Henry Mancini rang my doorbell.
But here’s a look at the bottom side of them.
And a visual of the concept for this pair.
An alternative to metal machine screws with sticky felt pads as feet (having to but two things) is to use nylon machine screws. "Self lubricating" and non-marring.
Those modules look like they are coming together nicely. I like how you color coded the design. I'd venture a guess that your Daylight train is going to look great on the modules.
I got my wife a 16” deep twin and a quad from CMR for her to do whatever she wants with. She asked if hers had to be prototypical, and when I said no... she said she wants to to do a town, with a park and a duck pond with moving ducks. Looks like I’ll be making some n scale ducks!
That works great though as there are many more opportunities for animation and lighting effects in a town.
Maybe I can put up one of the Daylight billboards somewhere.
Thanks, no one seemed to be able to visualize it, but now I hope folks can. And now you know why I did foam on plank, so I can carve it way down and get some elevation change out of it
The train store in Ruidoso is closing after the proprietor passed away, so my wife and I got some good stuff from them to help with the clearance. Jess got a slew of buildings, and a trolley for her module..
I got a bunch of vehicles and such.
We also rode the train at Alamogordo Toy Train Museum
My wife picked up a few DPM kits from a train store that was going out of business while we were on our first anniversary this weekend. I had also gotten her 2 buildings so now she has 6? 7?
She wants a trolley line down main street leading in to the park, so she picked up a PCC there too. We got our PCCs back here in ELPaso Last year, and one of our paint schemes is very much a clone of the Pennsylvania, so that’s the one she picked.
I’m going to leave the trolley DC, and make a controller on a stand for it so it can be driven by children, like my daughter.
Simply limiting the supply voltage to 3-4.5 volts to enforce slow speeds should be sufficient to prevent derails.
And means I could actually use batteries if I wanted to.
The rest of the details of her modules I have not been told yet. I assume the double will be the town and the quad the park, but I could be bassackwards. My job is wiring stuff up and providing advice only when asked!
Review of WS just plug police car...
At retail of $29.99, no.
At $20, yes. Just because it is a HUGE pain in the eyes to install 402 LEDs and magnet wire, as well as wire the headlights and taillights inside something this small. That being said, with patience you could easily install those LEDs yourself and wire them up to an NCE Light it to get a better roof mounted light effect, but you’d spend the same money unless you found the car cheaper than I ever have!
Side note, JST 2.0 connectors fit the WS Just plug accessories, apparently. Fit the linker plug just fine.
My whistle warehouse got knocked down, but I picked it up again.
And I reassembled it. The speaker is still underneath the floor but everything else has been removed, and some of the soldered joins for the wiring were broken...
So I rewired all the lights to an NCE Light-It, and I now have 3 zones of no more than 3LEDs per zone.
Zone 1 is exterior and office (3) constant on
Zone 2 is warehouse (3) random off/on
Zone 3 is 2nd floor (2) random off/on
I tried the sodium light setting for the warehouse, but it is boring, as it only happens once when first turned on.
This I think is better.
I’m also temporarily mocking up track for the beach modules to get an idea of where things should be carved.
Yes it is an s curve, but I’d rather have a 19-21 radius s curve than a 13” s curve with a 5” straight in the middle of it. That’s my opinion anyway. Maybe I’m wrong, but we will just have to see!
Well. It would have been nice, but despite me reminding my wife TWICE they were in the garage, she just just blithely drove over them anyway!
One actually survived intact with only minor tread marks in the foam (it was driven over in the middle) but the one that was driven over at the very end has crushed foam and broken plywood.
Too bad it was the outside end that has to match up, if it had been the inner side that was going to be carved anyway I might could have salvaged it by building it back up with sculptamold.
And most of the code 80 track is now either stripped from the ties or mangled from being driven over too.
Hate to hear when misfortune hits. Sorry, (although not my fault) about that incident. As they say (who is they?) stuff happens.
You'll get it all back together again.
Wow -- sorry to read about that.