In November 2024, I started building a small switching shelf layout based on the Southern Pacific Burbank Branch in San Fernando Valley, California, set in the 1970s. The layout is focused on realistic operations. Given my limited hobby time and the space constraints, I decided to model a slow-paced branch line that can keep up to two operators engaged for a little over an hour. Here is the trackplan (not final though). I started building the benchwork by securing brackets to the wall and attaching the valance/ceiling. Next, I installed Masonite boards for the backdrop and painted them light blue.
Before installing the LED strips to light the layout, I built a power and dimming station on a piece of 15mm-thick MDF to ensure clean and organized wiring. In the photo above, there are two power supplies: The larger one is a 200W dimmable power supply, which powers the 2700K and 4000K LED strips. The smaller one is a 60W dimmable power supply, dedicated to the blue LED strips used for night scenes. After installing the LED strips I quickly realized they mainly illuminated the area directly beneath them. Part of the backdrop was clearly left in shadow. I needed to mount the LED strips at an angle to minimize the shadow effect. Door wedges to the rescue! I purchased some wooden door wedges and I used them to mount the LED profile holders at an angle.
Thanks @Many Trains and @Metro Red Line ! Here are the three COB LED strips lit. The blue strip, despite being labeled as COB LED, shows the individuals LEDs. The 4000K and 2700K strips instead provide an even illumination. I'm thinking about using a transparent flat cover for the blue LED, which should make the light more uniform. This should reduce the individual LEDs reflection on the shiny rail tops. The LED strips are individually controlled and dimmed by push-buttons.
I'm guessing you mean translucent. A transparent cover will not help, a translucent cover will. Same LEDs, translucent on the left, no cover on the right:
Yes, translucent! Thank you. English is not my mother tongue, so I might sometimes use words improperly
I purchased some black Faesite (Masonite) sheets, had them cut to length, and used them to install the valance. I usually use a combination of 4000K and 2700K for daylight, while the blue light is on for night operations. In the photo below, the blue appears more saturated than it does in person. Here is a short video of the LED lighting
Very nice! I like the track plan. Clean, simple, and prototypical. Great job on the benchwork and lighting too! I look forward to following along with your progress.
I used a laser level I bought on Amazon to install the risers at the correct height. First, I clamped the risers to the benchwork, then I double-checked that the plywood base was level with the laser line. Once everything was aligned, I drilled pilot holes in the risers and screwed them down to the benchwork.
Yep, I use Atlas code 55 turnouts and Micro Engineering code 55 flextrack exclusively. They look good and prototypical for North American railroads, and they provided me with years of reliable entertainment
SAME HERE! Code 55 gets a bad rap. It's nowhere as bad as people claim it is. People give up on it too easily. I can run a train all day without any track-related derailments (that aren't turnouts switched the wrong way). I do wish ME made more turnouts than just a #6.
