MRC sound install in Bachmann J (dialup warning) Here is a how-to for a sound decoder install on Bachmann’s new J. It's not too difficult if you have hardwired a decoder before. Removing the tender shell is easy two screws, and it slides off. There are two copper jumper tabs that need to be removed. Remove the screw(s) holding the board, and pop the rear light leads out of the mount, and lift the board out of the way, to remove the speaker/ pickup mount. end chapter one
Because the MRC decoder used has a slightly larger speaker than the mount in the tender, remove the 4 screws that hold the speaker/ pickup mount and with a sharp blade remove the speaker ring flush with the frame. Before After Reinstall the pickup frame, and with a file or dremmel, thin the inside walls of the tender frame just a bit to allow the speaker to sit flush on the bottom. Now we’re ready to begin installation. End chapter two
To begin the install, the speaker goes in over the grill, routing the wires to the rear of the tender, between the pickup wires, and the magnet will fit into the hole in the PC board . I like to put the board back into place before setting decoder wires. End chapter three
With the decoder generally in place, the wires are loomed through their respective holes to get the correct lengths. The wires are cut to length with the decoder in place leaving a little extra for stripping and tinning. Remove the wires from the solder pads, strip and tin the ends, and solder them in place one at a time, keeping everything neat and separated as you go. The speaker wires ,which are connected to the opposite end of the decoder from the harness, and run under the decoder when installed. End chapter four
While you still have the iron hot, remove the two capacitors near the front of the PC board on the firemen’s side, you can also bypass the induction coils if you like, but I have never found it necessary. Before After Align the decoder so that it, and the wires will clear the mounting lugs, slide the shell back on and replace the two screws to lock the shell down. (the long screw goes to the rear of the tender, short one next to speaker. Test, program, and enjoy. End chapter five
Or more to the point, why would you use ANY MRC decoder? The Soundtraxx micro-Tsunami has superior motor control and superior sound, at least to the MRC decoders I've seen/heard/used in the past. And from the pictures, the Soundtraxx would be smaller, too. John C.
I'm pretty much jumping in with both feet but I'm getting some preliminary research done first. Do the soundtraxx decoders come pre-loaded with respective sounds? S
I would use a Lok-Sound micro sound decoder for the J Class Spectrum. The MRC motor controls are terrible. The Lok-Sound micro decoder is smaller and has far superior motor and sound functions than the MRC sound decoder which has many problems once installed. The poor track record of these decoders has been documented in many posts.
The micro-Tsunami (TSU-750) comes in several versions, all with excellent pre-loaded steam sounds. Each version has 7 different whistles (in fact, the different whistles are the main difference between the "medium" steam version and the "heavy" steam version; the "light" steam version has different chuff sounds, a different coupler clank, and a few other differences). Each has a bell, rod clank, airpump (single or dual), brake squeal, etc., etc., pre-programmed. You can turn each of the sounds on or off, as appropriate for your prototype, and adjust the volume of the sounds individually, as well as the overall volume. Visit the Soundtraxx web site and download the complete user manual for the Tsunami series (the micro- and the regular Tsunami use the exact same manual and have the exact same sounds and programming, so there is just one set of manuals). For the J, you probably would want the Tsunami heavy steam series, which comes with the N&W 1218 whistle pre-programmed (though I don't know if the A's whistle was the same as the J's or not; I'm assuming the N&W had a "house sound" to the whistle, but maybe that's wrong?). If you want to hear what a medium-steam version of the Soundtraxx Tsunami sounds like in operation, go to this thread TrainBoard.com - N Scale Steamer Videos scroll down to my post and click on my video of the LL Berkshire or Athearn Challenger (different whistles and slightly different speaker installations, but same sound decoder: the medium steam TSU-750) John C.
Ah. Well, that's certainly a good reason for using it at that time! Better choices available today, though. John C.
Unfortunately both of those decoders go for 100 a pop...I'll wait. Can someone elaborate on the motorcontrol issues with the MRC decoder?
Here are the problems I had with the MRC decoder in the Athearn Challenger, which I believe are typical (this is in DCC mode, not DC): 1. Terrible low-speed control; engine wouldn't start until throttle cranked up to about 15 (out of 100 on my digitrax DT400), then "took off". No amount of adjustment of start voltage solved this. 2. Engine "surged" - for apparently no reason, it would slow down, then speed up again. I thought this might be a motor issue, so I put the engine on a DC layout and this didn't happen. So it was caused by something in the DCC programming/circuitry of the MRC. Both these problems were cured by the Tsunami. The engine will now creep along happily at 1-2 smph; no surging. I also think the MRC sounds are far inferior to the Tsunami, but this is more of a personal preference thing; if the MRC sounds OK to you, then it's OK. I think the Tsunami's bell and whistle sounds are far more realistic. Chuffs are a toss-up. John C.
Is it necessary to remove the capacitor when installing a micro tsunami? This is my first sound install.
The caps and induction coils are part of the European RFI supperssion circuit, and may interfere with the performance of some decoders. you don't have to remove them unless you're having problems. For me it's just S.O.P. for DCC installs in Bachmann locos. Also, removing them does not void Bachmann's warranty for locomotives in North America.
Cool, thanks for the response!! This will be my first sound install so your thread has been a huge help.
I finished my install with the Micro-Tsunami decoder, sounds great. I have noticed some stalling, track probably needs some cleaning. I used your post as a step by step guide and it helped alot to have the great photos. I did not remove the capacitor's you showed in hear, do you think this would help with the stalling? Anyone who is doing this can use the SoundTraxx 1/2" speaker, it is a perfect fit in the speaker housing in the tender and is a good sounding speaker.
