With some investigation, I found that many of the parts I needed to start converting my 1970s rolling stock from horn hooks to Kadee knuckle couplers could be purchased in "bulk" packages of 50 or so. It's still not cheap, but it is much cheaper than the packages of five or less available in my local train shop. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
Layout REVAMP complete, quite satisfied after three full days of work (will post in layout thread) but still much 'tado. Want to add back removed LEDs, more signals and a new turnout control but still undecided on route to go have "BerrettHill" controls on wish list yet economics rule . . So how to achieve "economies of scale"? Am still waiting for delivery of more "28g wire" and "press fit connectors" (see prior post) but if I add DPDT toggles to his "3-Wire Snap-Base" outputs can I still tie all switch "commons" together at the base with no problems at all? Discovered a free new "label maker" am hoping 'ex' doesn't notice it GONE!
Finally bought my first Tangent car, a Penn Central G43A gondola. Very nice model, nice weight to it and seems to track very well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ah finally done it! I achieved that super "s l o w c r a w l" that you DCC'ers are so proud of with my two Whathers diesels, on a DC-only track, by adding a -> Motor Speed Controller between the older style Tyco 18v transformer and an Atlas' standard direction/reverse "controller'. With a pulse setting of just 7% and the Tyco at minimum 'just on' they both scale snail at less than walking speed hardly moving at all!
I've been wanting those modernized SP lumber cars for years. Reportedly PBL was working on them but Tangent finally produced them which I am happy about. I've seen these boxcars in D&RGW freight trains and am also an SP fan so I ordered a single of the 1965 run and two of the 1968 run without roof walks.
While scouring the Internet for Train Master info, I found a sweet deal on an old Blue Box TM and just HAD to swerve out of my N-scale lane. I've always had a soft spot for the old Athearn Blue Box stuff, so I think I'll detail up this TM alongside its N-scale counterpart. Are Smokey Valley handrails still a thing?
This past weekend (Saturday) went to the Neuse River Valley Train show in Raleigh, NC. Not the largest show compared the GSMTS or other large national shows, but there are always some good scale model vendors there as well as many good modular layouts, the largest of which is the Sipping and Switching Society of NC. This year for some reason, I purchased more details for buildings, etc than other things. Also, when I got home Saturday, an order of C&O details along w/ 2024 calendar showed up in the mail. Saturday was a good day for modeling "loot".
Good to know! Unfortunately it doesn't look like KV does F-M stanchions, so unless I find a killer deal on the Smokey Valley kit I'll leave well enough alone. Honestly these are about the nicest built and painted Blue Box handrails I've ever seen. Whoever built this TM back in the day put my crooked blobbily-painted teenage attempts at BB handrails to shame. Not that that's a particularly high bar to clear
Talked to KV models not likely he'll do FM stantions as the shape is hard to replicate in the material he uses
That makes sense. FM used round tubular stanchions, which you can hardly recreate in flat etched metal. In this case bending the stanchions out of wire probably is the prototypically-accurate way to go, even if it is painfully tedious.
Was looking to replace a brass, left-hand turnout when stumbled upon this (same seller, new, "free ship") for $11.99 so couldn't resist. Ad says it's "vintage" 1991? It will fit right in with my "Superhero" boxcars . . 1971 Super Bowl Spoiler: Keep tearing layout apart with "revisions" progress is S L O W! Spoiler: Oh the JOYS of buying Ebay 'used' the only thing holding these nasty switch rails apart is the connectors to previous track.
A Good Argument for "FlexTrack"? Spoiler: Why no more 'clackity clack' Ordered 3 packs of 'new' #170 HO 70/83/100 Rail connectors the used stuff is iffy as best! Tearing up layout AGAIN in anticipation of "ballast"?! Is there a good roadbed, foam or otherwise, that is less than < 5mm thick? Also got a good deal on 8 Atlas switch controls in "GREAT SHAPE" for $1.99 each? Am still undecided, short on finances for anything more elaborate. Dear Santa: I WANT WORKING SIGNALS that don't 'ave to fuss with!
