Several Questions

Mystified0510 Mar 21, 2003

  1. Mystified0510

    Mystified0510 E-Mail Bounces

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    Several things I used to know something about, but have forgotten :confused:

    1. What is the minimum curve radius needed to run a fully-articulated loco?

    2. Will a fully-articulated run on a #6 turnout? #4?

    3. Are #4 turnouts usually the choice for yards involving a lot of side-by-side tracks for car storage?

    4. Last, but not least...what advice could you offer as far as brand names in track? So far, all I know to use is Atlas, but is it really the best way to go?

    Thanks for any input (questions about engines to be posted later). Best...Larry
     
  2. jkristia

    jkristia TrainBoard Member

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    I wish I could help you with the minimum curve, but I can’t. But I can tell you that I would never go less than 15”, maybe down to 12” for an extremely sharp industrial spur, and I’m sure if you stay above 15” you won’t have any problems. For turnouts I have used #5 (atlas code55) in the yard and #7 anywhere else.

    I would recommend Atlas code 55 tracks, because I really like it’s appearance compared to their code 80 tracks. There is a problem with the flange depth with that track, but it can all be fixed by replacing the wheels with low profile wheels on your cars, and if you are just starting out, that shouldn’t be too much of a problem.

    But remember, this is only my opinion and you will most likely get a lot of different opinions, especially on the track brand question.

    Jesper

    [ 21. March 2003, 16:53: Message edited by: jkristia ]
     
  3. danlissa

    danlissa TrainBoard Member

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    Hi Larry

    For the questions 1 - 3 I have no concrete answers. All my curves have a minimum radius of 40 cm.

    The choice of the track is a personal decision and depends on the fineness you like. You can buy tracks which are completed with the ballast. All you have to do is stick them together. This is not my favorite. I think it looks too unnaturally.

    I use PECO code 80. The profile of the track is higher than the code 55. So I have more space for the ballast. I am happy with it.

    Happy building
    Daniel
     
  4. Robin Matthysen

    Robin Matthysen Passed Away October 17, 2005 In Memoriam

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    Larry, my Rivarossi 2-8-8-2 Mallet can handle a 15inch radius but it looks much better on a 20inch radius. I haven't tried it on anything less because it has such an overhang even at 15inches. For the same reason, I use the larger Peco switches, I think they are around 6.
    I use code 80 Atlas track because locos like the Mallet would need wheel turning to fit Code 55. I must admit code 55 looks so much nicer. Maybe if I start over someday!! :rolleyes:
     
  5. porkypine52

    porkypine52 TrainBoard Member

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    Okay where to start?
    1) I have no real idea on how small a radius a fully-articulated engine will run on, but then I wouldn't run one on any radius smaller than 15" and that would be almost too small anyway. Get off the "minimum radius" idea anyway, use as big of a radius as you can, anyplace you can.
    2) Again I wouldn't run a mallet on a #4 turnout at all, a #6 would be the bare minimum. If you need to have a lot of #4 turnouts on your layout I would advise you to rethink the idea of running mallets on your layout. They will not look good or handle well on sharp curves and small numbered turnouts.
    3) Again #4 turnouts are not a good turnout for yards, just too sharp for any cars over 50 ft long.
    4) There are several different brands of track available. Atlas, and Peco are the two top brands. There is also Kato, Micro Engineering, Shinohara, and others. Each brand has it's pros and cons. You can also buy the ties and rails to lay your own trackwork. By laying your own track, you can custom design a layout, have the trackwork go the way you want to, and not be limited by the "off the shelf" brand trackwork.

    Do what you want to do, but try to do it right the first time. Put down the best trackwork that you can, cause once it is put down right you will not have to go back and redo trackwork 'cause the trains will not stay on the track!
     
  6. Mystified0510

    Mystified0510 E-Mail Bounces

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    Thanks for the replies. Now that I think of it, what I used to know (radius, etc) was from HO gauge, and that has been more than a *few* years :cool: Anyway, I do like the idea of using the bigger radius track, and I shouldn't have a problem with that since I'll have about 4'x10' (maybe 5'x10'). Anyway, I'll be giving it some thought. Thanks again...
     
  7. sandro schaer

    sandro schaer TrainBoard Member

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    I have a nice brass bigboy which requires at least 24" radius curves. But if you go with the far cheaper Rivarossi I guess 15" should be working althoughlooking some kind of funny.

    As for the tracks I used Peco code 55 for all of my layout. Very strong and durable track.
     

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