I have a mixed fleet of diesels but will try to get all of them onto DCC eventually. Some engines do not convert very well such as the life like switchers. Question numero uno #1- Will running analog on DCC damage my motors any? whats with the funny ringing noise when running analog? Question numero dos #2- Return loops. What do you do if you are running mixed analog and DCC fleets? am I just plan screwed here? Mucho gracias in advance
If you run analog on a DCC layout, I would receive analog loco after running it. If you leave it on the track, you'll fry the motor. I only test analog loco's on my DCC layout. I don't have a DC power supply to run analog loco's on a test track. IMO, I wouldn't run a mix of analog with DCC. On the DCC layout you can only run one analog loco with the address of "0" BTW, it isn't that difficult to convert the LL diesels to DCC. You just have to spend some time, follow directions and work slowly. Stay cool and run steam....
The sound is the DCC "current" - nothing more. Not good to leave on the track for extended periods. I'm in your same boat - for now.
Concerning reverse blocks and analog, I used two dpdt toggles. The first I labeled "digital/analog" and it is wired with the power leads coming to the center terminals. One set of end terminals is connected to an auto reverser, which in turn is connected to the rails. This is the digital output. The other set of terminals is connected to the center set of contacts on the second switch, which I labelled "in/out" as I run thru the reverse block in one direction only. The outer sets of contacts are wired with the classic "X" in order to change polarity and are connected to the rails. When the first switch is set to digital, no power reaches the second switch, so its connection to the rails is harmless, and I've had no problem with track power entering the auto reverse unit when in analog mode, as its input side is dead. So in digital mode (where it is left always) the reverse block runs as any other DCC reverse block. In analog, you set the in/out switch appropriatly (matching the polarity of the adjoining rails) run the train in, then you must stop, change the toggle to "out" and also change direction with your throttle. Then you can run out. I did this with the thought of allowing friends analog locos to run on my layout, that has happened twice in 5 years, last time several years ago. Frankly, who wants to deal with flipping toggles? Gary
I guess my only real concern is the LL sw's. I hate to lose a headlight and lose weight in those. I have even thought about wiring a pair of them so that one loses the tail light and they have a DCC plug between them. Has anyone wired mated diesels to one decoder to save money? So far I have installed a sound decoder in my HO LL 080. Aside from having to build the sound enclosure it was very easy. I actually enjoy soldering quite a bit and my soldering is much nicer than what I saw the guys at my LHS doing and charging money for, which is why I opted to do my own install. I've stopped buying LL N scale diesels because of the decoder issue. I'm fairly taken with the idea of drop in units now that I have taken apart some of my atlas engines.
You could cut the frame of the LL diesels so you don't lose a headlight. Stay cool and run steam......
With my LL GP-60, I found it possible to fit a Digitrax DZ143 in by milling the frame a bit below the rear LED, thus retaining the light, but losing a bit of mass. (About two hours later I fried the decoder, so I much prefer Plug-N-Play now) With my LL GP-20, fitting a NCE N12SR by milling the frame also, I tried to retain the rear LED, but eventually surrendered and left it out. After frying the first decoder, I got the second to fit and it's happy. The Digitrax DZ143, being smaller, might fit and keep the light. I'm not sure if I should bother with the LL GP-38 I have. So I've gone through 9 decoders on 7 installs, and I haven't rebuilt the LL GP-60 yet - not trusting to not fry another decoder. My soldering is above-average, but my fingers are just too big and clumsy. Traingeekboy: If you liked Atlas "undo clamshell, drop in decoder, put back together", you'd love the Kato SD-40's or similar. "tug on light board to remove. push in new DCC lightboard. no screwdriver required". Back on the original questions: uno: The buzzing noise is supposed to be fine on a can or split motor, but can be really bad for core-less motors, I hear - I haven't blown any of them up yet - just decoders. I would still agree with not leaving an analogue engine on the track when it's not being run. dos: I think the two DPDT switch idea from Gary Pfeil is your best option for reverse loops.
Thanks for the tips BTW. Are those Sd40's older or newer models? Someone offered to sell me a bunch of trashed ones and i'm thinking maybe I can buy the lot and get one or two decent ones out of it. And yes the DPDT will be just the ticket for the DC, but I am tempted by reversing units for DCC.
I'm not actually sure which are "newer" or not with Katos. ATSF Road Numbers 5003 and 5014. Kato website suggests Nov 2002, (Compare with 2000 for SD40-2) If you can get any sample road numbers from your offered pile, you can check on Kato's Site to see if they're from the same run. They're very nicely engineered models. I'm tempted to get a couple more from the LHS on special and renumber them to fit my "roster".
In N scale, I bought a bunch of the new SD40's by Kato specifically for their chassis since they are DCC ready, as opposed to their older units. This enabled me to "drop in" decoders and put them under SD40 and SD45 bodies. Harold
Half my fleet does not have decorder and I have never fried a motor yet. I do not leave them idling powered up though. I have run DC GP20's for hours on the main line using DC and have had zero motor failures. It has been my experience that the idling is the thing that generates the most heat.
