Is there any reason not to use Micro trains or accumate couplers? I have lots of Unimates and find them somewhat ugly and useless.
The only positive thing I can say. Edited: Actually I like the Unimate couplers however, there are some features I don't like and I'm sure those points will be covered here. Now back to the original comments. What I like about Unimate couplers is they hold together on the down hill runs "Unlike", the original Roundhouse, ConCor's, some Kato and I'm missing one other. And, I just remembered Accumates. I like to use them when putting together a consist of diesels as they seldom if ever uncouple. As a bonus they shorten the distance between the locomotives as seen by the prototypes. Down side: The Unimates, do look ugly and you have to lift one of them into the other when coupling and remove them the same way. No automatic coupling. However, for someone needing an inexpensive option (like me) until I can afford the Micro Trains conversions, Unimates... work great. I use them on trains where I won't be switching them Ie., A unit train or passenger train. Although, I've had difficulty keeping Kato passenger cars coupled on the downhill runs. Most Kato passenger cars stay coupled but I have a few that come uncoupled every time. I will wait to switch out the Kato couplers with MT's, until I can afford it or they no longer stay coupled. I'm cheap...if it ain't broke I won't fix it. I did fix two of the Kato couplers by super glueing the two moving parts shut. Problem temporarily solved. Still I'm not sure we answered the question. I would recommend, **The Unimate short "t" shank! With perhaps some minor modifications. I would highly recommend the purchase of a Micro Trains body mount, pre-fab, coupler and pocket. To install using a short drill, tap and screw. You don't want the screw coming up through the floor or platform of the way car. Kind of unsightly if it does. Hope that helps!
I only use Unimates to close the coupling distance Between Intermountain F-3 and F-7 units. They are a pain to couple and uncouple. You could easily body mount Mt couplers to get the desired effect that you want. Stay cool and run steam.....
To answer the original question, I believe you have two choices: (a) You can use the T-shank coupler to fit in the Rapido coupler pocket, or (b) You can use the body-mount coupler typically used on locomotives, as alluded to by Powersteamguy above. Either will work just fine. As I'm sure you gathered, these couplers are the most robust couplers in N scale, although thoroughly impractical if any switching is contemplated. That said... Hey Geeky! I'm looking for some Unimates! Interested in a trade of some kind? Lunch, perhaps? I'm particularly looking for body-mount ones.
That would be the RNP-51000. Be interested in knowing which one PSG used ... didn't know the IM F units could take body mounted couplers; 'course I don't have any IM F units .. yet. Very true .. :thumbs_up: Ah HAH... a competitor!! :shade:
It might be tough to put a T-shanked Unimate in a Bowser caboose, becaus the coupler spring is molded as part of the original Rapido coupler. It might be possible to cut the spring off of the original coupler, or try type with the screwholes.
All my IM FT's have the body mounted Unimates. What I did was cut off the second hole, and simply mount the Unimates where the Accumate bodymounts were, using the old Atlas screw. Very simple. (All my IM F's are FT's, hence the pre-MT couplers.) Doing the same with the LifeLike FA's was a little more tricky, but the two sets I have also have Unimates. (I could go on... )
I am refitting all my grain hoppers with Accumates and MT's not sure when funds will be available for this swap, but I 'll keep you in mind.
It's good to have others jumping in here. This way you can get the same advice said a dozen ways. Your choice. Not to mention other noteworthy ideas as well. Now that's cool! Human Interest and of no particular significance...just interesting: Flash from the Past. "Very Cool"...was an expression we used when I was a youngster. I guess today it's "That's Hot"! You know, maybe you don't but, once upon a time, the kids a generation ahead of me used to say "That's Hot Man". Then we cooled it off with "That's Cool Dude". Now then the temperature is back-up, drought is predicted and it's " That's Hot". Tomorrow...well... maybe it will be changed to "Frigid Sister". Grin!
If you're handy with an Xacto knife, you'd be amazed how much you can carve off a Unimate in all directions to get a smaller coupler. You can make the head much thinner and narrower. I've got them down so that they mate well with a Z coupler. I use them between dedicated, powered units to prevent false uncoupling. Most of my diesel lashups are semi-permanent anyway. I also use them on oddball cars that completely resist easy coupler conversion due to special trucks - a good example is the Bachmann 200-ton crane. Most times you can throw a Unimate in a Rapido box with much less fight. Often times I'll put a Unimate in a Rapido box even as a temporary coupler until I figure out how to do the job right. Chopped and carved down, they make nice dummy couplers on steam pilots, and that shank is a whole lot easier to work with than delrin. I have a friend that does all his unit trains in them. Huge cost savings if the trucks are actually OK, most aren't, but some are. If you're really cramped for space, and don't mind spending some money, one of the most versatile MT coupler boxes out there are the little sliding mounts for the passenger car trucks. Those can be cut shorter and fit almost anywhere as body mounts. I've used a lot of those on diesels, short-wheelbase cars, and virtually all my industrial critters and loggers. I really wish they'd sell those separately - they are the shortest-mount box out there.
Yeah, I also would love to see them as a separate part. I scour the "junk parts" boxes at train shows looking for these. Even though the coupler itself is bigger, you can fit them into smaller places than a Z coupler will go because the box is much smaller.
I like the Unimates for my long unit trains for N track and shows... i use them on my el cheapo cars that i dont mind taking a trip to the floor.. but they hold together on the not so perfect track of Ntrack moduals and the connections so they are great for that. Also i use uni mates on the ends of my loco's sure you cant uncouple from the car next to the head end but it seems to keep locos together better
