Re-wiring

I'm going to try to describe my layout and asked other how they would
re-wire all the switches.

The layout is designed like a flat bottom "W" that is, three 4x6
sections connected with a long 2x20 foot section at the bottom. When
I started, it was just a simple "U" and then the bug hit me -- major
expansion. All the wiring and switching was on the end arm. But with
the expansion it was prudent to move all the switches to the middle
part of the "W" for better visual control. I moved all the wiring
and switches from the edge of the original "U" and now to the center
of this "W" with many more switches. Total switches 45. I thought I
was doing it right but now the underneath looks like a massive bowel
of spaghetti with very little intelligent order. If I have a problem
it's going to be one miserable nightmare.

With that small bit of information how would some of your hobbyist
organize it. I thought of drilling holes in the 1x3's and stringing
the wire through them having a hole for each switch. Or using cups
hooks for each individual wire and having about 50 lined up next to
the switches with them fanning out in each direction.

Does that even make sense to try and keep them individualized and
separated.

Thanks in advance.

 

I understand your nightmare,on my layout I have 72 turnouts. I have used scrap computer cables to help organize the wiring. I route the cables through 3/8" holes to the various sections. The cables I have access to contain 9 wires inside each one. That's enough to operate 4 turnouts, as only one common wire is needed for all 4. I usually run the cables to a terminal strip and wire the turnouts from there, but in some instances where there are many grouped close, I will wire directly to the turnout. These wires are very fine silver ones but I am able to operate Atlas under table machines over a 40' cable, so they appear to be adequate for this type of use. I have used phone cable as well. To further assist in identification I obtained a book full of adhesive numbering strips that wrap around wire ends. They have an assortment of different numbers and letters with multiples of each one. The ones I have are made by a company named Panduit. I got mine from our maintenance department at work, but I think they are easily available at electrical supply houses. Wrap one at each end of the cable or wire and jot all of them down in a notebook if needed.
I have seen cup hooks used before with sucess, so you are already on the right track. Hooks or drilled holes both help.
willie

 

Thanks for the suggestions, each one certainly has things that I can use. After reading and thinking about it, I realize that some of my ideas were not that hot. Now what do I do with 500 cup hooks. <grin>

Using the Kato system has been one of the advantage for an electical wiring idiot like me, but the spaghetti mess I had was terrible. So based on what was said, going to organize the switching mechanism better, isolating those going in certain direction, bundle them and fanning out when needed.

 

If you intend to rip out all the wire and start over point to point, you would have a better chance to plan the new wiring ROUTING if you worked it out on paper first, wouldn't you?

I have both a wiring chart, and a wiring diagram to work from when I start the first wire. I use Pandit lables on each end for all hot wires regardless of insulation color.

All ground wires are labled, and are green insulation for quick identification.

I found the chart to be the most useful. Each switch terminal is listed with the lable code, and each turnout is listed separately along with the wire code involved with it. And so on...

 

Don't known if it is an option for you , but dcc might be an idea. Two pairs of wire, one for track one for switches. Install function decoders close to the switches.

 

Thanks for all the additional suggestions, taking parts of each and working my layout around them. Since it's a Kato system, some of it's great and a few need modifying. I guess the biggest problem was the fact I moved the controls, making some switches further away and lengthening some wire, but too lazy to cut those that were shortened quite a bit. Just hate to bite the bullet, go in and cut the excess and resolder half of them. If I want a neater looking system, going to have to do that.

The DCC idea is great, but after a more technical person that me, converted his layout to DCC and spent too much time, sweat, cursing and everything else, plus going to the Timonium Show and having the Digitrak person working on it for over an hour, I decided it was not for me. I do love to operate the switches, which he find a nuisance.

Thanks guys for all the information, been very helpful