rail joiners, curves and C40 rail

jkristia Jan 17, 2003

  1. jkristia

    jkristia TrainBoard Member

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    I just received the code 40 ME rail and ties I ordered last week, and boy oh boy that is tiny and fragile. It looks like you can easily by mistake install it upside down and not notice it until you check it closely with a magnifying glass
    I will first use this on my small 1x4 hand lay test layout “TestVille” and if it turns out ok, I might start using it on my “real” layout instead of the Atlas C55 track I’m using now, or at least start building my own turnouts instead of the standard #5 and #7 turnout provided by Atlas.
    Now I have one question, I will probably have more once I get started, but for now my question is.

    Do you use rail joiners on curves?

    On straight I’m planning on using 2 PC ties where the rail joint is and not use any rail joiners, I think the pc tie will hold the alignment just fine, but what about on curves, how do you get a nice smooth say 18” curve without any kink where the rail meets? (I know, I know, I can't have any 18" curves on a 1x4, I'm just curious)

    Thanks for any advise. I can’t wait to get started

    Jesper
     
  2. Mike C

    Mike C TrainBoard Member

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    Not a expert here, but I remember in the Gazette some time ago that You will want to solder the joints first , then form the curve. I dont think you will need to use the rail joiners, but I,m not sure. Do they make code 40 rail joiners???? If they do then I would use the joiner and solder the rails before bending the curve. Just make sure the solder doesent interfere with the wheel flanges. I dont think they make spikes for this size rail either. The PC board ties are a good thing here. HTH....Mike
     
  3. slimjim

    slimjim Passed away January 2006 In Memoriam

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    File an angle on the rail then solder. A lot stronger that a butt joint. Ya, Code 40 is fun to work with but sure looks good.

    ___ /__
     
  4. ncng

    ncng TrainBoard Member

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    Instead of rail joiners, I alway place a small piece of sheet brass under the joints. I tin the brass and place it on the bottom of the first piece before installing it. Then I put some flux on the bottom of the next piece and apply heat. Good electrical and mechanical connection.
     
  5. ak-milw

    ak-milw TrainBoard Member

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    I would think you would want to have somthing joining the rails otherwise you have to solder drop leads to each section just to get power!! :eek:
     
  6. jkristia

    jkristia TrainBoard Member

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    I already do that with the C55 flex track, I don't want to rely on the joiner for electrical contact.

    Jim, would you file an angle and solder even on straigth or only when it's on a curve ?

    Jesper
     
  7. slimjim

    slimjim Passed away January 2006 In Memoriam

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    Jesper, I think the best bet was the answer that was posted on the hand lay list. That is file one rail from the top half way down and file the other one half way up from the bottom then solder. That gives you a lap joint for strenth and ease of alignment. Only needs to be from 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch.

     
  8. mdrzycimski

    mdrzycimski TrainBoard Supporter

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    Jim,

    Can you tell me where to locate the hand lay list? Is it a Yahoo group?

    I am hand laying turnouts in N scale code 55 and am always looking for tips and pointers.

    Thanks,
     
  9. jkristia

    jkristia TrainBoard Member

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  10. mdrzycimski

    mdrzycimski TrainBoard Supporter

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    Thanks, I just joined.
     

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