Questions on detail painting

Wolv_Cub Feb 7, 2002

  1. Wolv_Cub

    Wolv_Cub TrainBoard Member

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    Ok I started messing with some acrylics and enamel models paints for detailing some of my freight cars and locos

    So far I have started one loco but I need to get a few detail parts to finish it off, but I need to go the local railyard and get some pictures for reseach and find out what kind of antenni and plows and such. ( more research , think I will be doing a lot of that )

    My first attempt at mixing the colors for rust simulation were less than desirable . so after the disapointment, and breif break to rethink my mixing . ( "G" I used to be A art student in highschool but lack of use in the real world forgot a few tricks , remembered them now though) .

    The few books that I have available sugest testors dullcoat for coating and protecting the finish and detail work , so in looking at the local stores for for this I could not find it .

    Any sugestions as to what else I can or could use , useing mostly water based acrylic paints ,and a few enamel paints .

    the freight car that I have pretty much finished looks decent even for a first attempt, but due to my problmes mixing the acrylics after my cooling down period . I played with some enamel gloss paint, got the color that I felt close to the right color but it has a glossy finish not what you expect from rust .
     
  2. ncng

    ncng TrainBoard Member

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    Sticking with acyrlics, I like to use Microscale Micro Flat. With Testor's Dullcoat you have to use a lacquer thinner for clean up. Expensive and hazardous.
     
  3. Eagle2

    Eagle2 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I find good results can be had with artists colors. Try burnt and raw sienna and burnt and raw umber.
     
  4. cthippo

    cthippo TrainBoard Member

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    Some of the solvent based clear coats will also eat the acrylic paints, even when dry. The modelflex line has a set of clearcoats that I like a lot. THey're the same water base as modelflex's other paints, non-toxic, and won't dissolve the paint. If you're mixing paint types on a project, be sure to spray the solvent based colors before the water based colors or else the water base may get eaten!
     
  5. yankinoz

    yankinoz TrainBoard Member

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    Wolv,

    First off - good idea getting pix of the details first hand. There is no substitute for research. Depending on the road you model, there are heaps of web sites out there with thousands of pictures on line. I would suggest asking in one of the road specific forums here at trainboard for suggested links. (If you are looking for Soo Line pictures I can hook you up!)

    Dullcoat - you won't find it in regular stores. You will need to look in hobby shops that specialize in plastic models. You can buy it in bottles for airbrushing and thin it with laquor thinner (YOU NEED GOOD VENTALATION) it is also available in spary cans. Still pretty sticky stuff (and not even a little good for you) so you should us it outside or with good ventilation.

    Rust colour paints are available from Testors and can be found in most hobby shops. If there is a hobby shop that specializes in model trains you will be able to find MODELflex or Poly S paints. Both are acrylic and don't stink and both have a 'Rust' colour and a 'Rail Brown' colour. I like to mix n match the two for different degrees of 'rust'.

    Here's a note on plows: Details West make a wide range of plows but they are modeled in an 'as delivered' style. Lots of these plows didn't last a long time in real duty 'as delivered' - The Soo Line comes to mine (did I mention I model The Soo?) anyway - if you look at the plows on new locos the air line hose pokes threw a small hole in the plow - in pictures as the engines aged, most of them have the area around the air hose is cut out - I would guess they had a difficult time with the hoses freezing in this WI an MI winters. So don’t be afraid to modify the plow detail part to match what your favorite RR did.
     
  6. Wolv_Cub

    Wolv_Cub TrainBoard Member

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    thank You for all the good information .

    Well that what Im in the process of doing .
    In my area there is a local rail yard that services several steel mills, electrical power plants , a couple of small coal yards and concrete factories

    The local Rail yard is operated by Norfolk and Southern and has been operated by Conrail, Penn Central, and PRR.

    My questions on this rail yard has yielded little information in the Conrail, PRR, and NS forums .

    I have found one areial photo of the round house that was in the yard at one time , Im planing on paying a visit to the local historical society as soon as transportaion is arranged. ( either I get my truck fixed or I have the chance to steal the wifes car with out being overwhelmed with too many errands to run, a 7 month old daughter has seemed to bring alot of oh we need this or I forgot to get this could you stop on your way, again cold weather seems to always get in the way )

    As soon as the weather is good Im also planning to pester my friends who work in the yard to allow me to take photos or get photos of some of the buildings still in exsistance and some of the locos and stock there.

    On the matter of the clear coats I didnt know some of the solvent based clear coats would eat water based colors so this is good to find out now .

    my problem is either transportaion to the larger malls in the surounding area to visit them is about a 45 min to hour drive from my home .

    which leaves me very little choice to find other alternatives to model based sales industry, mail order which can be slow or maybe the craft stores ,,but again not sure what would be good to use. I have had trouble finding Experienced model railroaders in my area to hook up with and ask my questions.

    the reason for asking here for any ideas others have tried or had to use , some sales assisstants when asked questions dont seem to have the answers that I need to hear ( normally hear hmm I dont know ).

    And the accountant (my wife) to understand the importance of some of the necessary items needed for weathering and detailing . hence practical reasoning for make a trip to the larger cities to find what I need .

    I was hopeing to find alternatives the could be easliy found and used with out too much trouble and expense , but my post has turned up some information I did not know and still more Ideas that may be helpful later on .

    [ 09 February 2002, 17:35: Message edited by: Wolv_Cub ]
     
  7. nug

    nug E-Mail Bounces

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    When I first started detailing I found that Pastel chalks were the go, if you make a mess of your favorite loco simply wash it off and start again. Art supply shops are a good place to start. Apply the colored chalk with a soft brush, you will soon get the hang of it, even try with a little water to darken those rusty spots, also try a sponge to smooth out the fading.
    Works for me !
     
  8. Eagle2

    Eagle2 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Just a caution I've heard many times before - get chalk pastels, not oil.
     
  9. eddelozier

    eddelozier TrainBoard Member

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    If you have dark colored engines and or rolling stock, I found out that a soft 'silver lead' pencil can be used to highlite the grills, fans, ladders,wheel bearings, steps,horns, etc.
    Gives a worn used look to ladders and steps. Brings out the grill work on fans.
    Easy to use and easy to erase if overdone.

    I use with all my PRR engines (always too dark) and detail edges not noticeable.

    ......Eddie
     
  10. eddelozier

    eddelozier TrainBoard Member

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    If you have dark colored engines and or rolling stock, I found out that a soft 'silver lead' pencil can be used to highlite the grills, fans, ladders,wheel bearings, steps,horns, etc.
    Gives a worn used look to ladders and steps. Brings out the grill work on fans.
    Easy to use and easy to erase if overdone.

    I use with all my PRR engines (always too dark) and detail edges not noticeable.

    ......Eddie
     
  11. Wolv_Cub

    Wolv_Cub TrainBoard Member

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    A few more good Ideas that I havent thought of.

    I did get a set of art pastel chalks they helped cut down the gloss of the rust colored paint I made, but now Im still looking for alternatives to protecting the finished detailing so the chalk and paints dont come off and mess my detail work up.

    has any one tried some of the clearcoats in the craft section or art suplies that are for acrylic paints ?

    Keep the good Ideas coming !
    :D
     
  12. keyrail

    keyrail TrainBoard Member

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    Floquil "Figure-Flat would also work.
     
  13. Pete

    Pete TrainBoard Member

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    Speaking of colors, what's a good color to paint models of wood pallets? I'd like to stay with water based paints.
     
  14. yankinoz

    yankinoz TrainBoard Member

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    They come in all colours, but the paint doesn't last long. Light gray colours are good for weathered ones but be carful with browns - basicly wood isn't generally brown - it is light tan and gray.

    For some reason I have been seeing lots of yellow and blue pallets in Sydney lately.

    If you are modeling your local area - keep your eyes pealed for the common colours - often pallets are owned by a few local companies that lease them - so those tend to be painted the same colour (the yellow and blue ones around here) and are generally in fairly good condition.
     

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