Purpose of the trip pins?

I have always used the digits on either the left or the right hand to couple and uncouple. They seem to never break down and I can perform the operations in most any place on my layout. I have been doing this for 35+ years so I'm stuck in my ways.

What I have been wondering...is there a mechanical reason why the trip pins cannot be removed? Most of my accumates can't seem to stay put anyways and the MT's come from the factory with that beautiful copper looking color that begs to be covered with a coat of black paint or just removed to look more realistic.

I don't belong to any clubs and the only layout that my stuff will probably see is my own.

Thanks,

Brian

 

I have cut all of my Accumate trip pins and have done the same with my Micro-Trains as well.Sometimes you get a low trip pin and it causes trouble on the frogs of turnouts.They only have a purpose if you are using the automatic uncoupling magnets.If you aren't using those to uncouple your trains have fun cutting.that is the only purpose they serve. As I say that.Do not cut the trip pin all the way off on the microtrains.they also hold the coupler together.You can cut them off and leave just a little hang down from the underside of the coupler and be safe.I will try to post pics of what I am saying if you think it will help.Let me know.

 

Accumate trip pins can simply be PULLED OUT. No cutting is involved.

Micro-Trains trip pins should NOT be pulled out, as the pins (inserted in the upper half of the shank) pass through a loop of plastic in the lower half of the shank. It is better to CUT them off so that a portion of the pin is still inside the loop of plastic. This will prevent the coupler from opening too wide and thus potentially causing unwanted uncoupling.

 

Trip pins are installed as a quick and easy way to test rail height in turnouts and crossovers. IF the trip pind catches and destroys the coupler and coupler box you know your track is too high.

Clearly that has to be the reason as no manufacturer of couplers would release a product with trip pins that were too long.

[ 04. November 2004, 16:16: Message edited by: wig-wag-trains.com ]

 

If you wait it out,
the accumate trip pins will fall out on their own.

I just found one that got picked up in the
wheels of one of my steam engines.



Loco1999

 

I too cut off the MT pins, after pushing them all the way in from the top and then burnishing the copper tip with a black Sharpie to hide it. Boy, do those things sail when you snip them off!
Yes, I also remove the accumate pins. At least they don't show from the topside like MT does.

 

I too cut off all my trip pins as time permits. I"ve had the joy of a 40+ car grain train with 4 units derailing because a low hanging trip pin decided to stop on a switch point while the train was moving. Trust me, it wasn't pretty, and neither was my mood after cleaning up the wreck. I use the old tried and true 5 finger uncoupling method. As Boxcab says, it works every time.

 

Thanks for all of the responses. This was one of those questions that I have wanted to ask for a long time but thought that it was too stupid to bring up. I am so glad that cutting the MT trip pins was brought up; trying to yank those beasts out is almost impossible without fits of frustration and destruction!

Brian

 

I check the height of all the trip pins to make sure they don't snag going through turnouts.

I use automatic uncoupling and don't mind the trip pins, which I paint a grimy black.


Stay cool and run steam.....

 

When a derailment occurs, I cut them off. Accumates can fly apart when you cut them off, so I grip them in a tweezers. There will probably be a day when I'm looking for 500 MT and 500 Accumate trip pins because I'll figure out how the uncouplers actually work.

I'd estimate that at least 30 percent of trip pins are too low. It takes a while to find them all.

 

Like Powersteamguy1970, I use the trip pins on my couplers for the purpose intended - uncoupling cars over magnets. I find that if they are properly adjusted I very rarely have to risk damaging my scenery and structures by sticking my fat fingers into the layout.

Oh, and as to the copper pins, I paint them with Neo-Lube. If that gets into the coupler it only helps as it is graphite based.

 

I guess I'll be the first to say I like the appearance of trip pins (resembling the brake lines that hang below prototype couplers). Also, like Thirdrail, I've discovered that Neo-lube is ideal for blackening MT trip pins.

 

Brian,
There ain't no such thing as a dumb question.
Anybody who things so is an Arogant *&^%)&*^
Just my opinion of course but i do Tech support and if people would just ask _before_ they did something, man, I would be un employed. < The Grey Gryphin gryns >

 

my M-T trip pins are SO helpful at N-trak runs..

It's ALWAYS the first car of a unit train that will find the SMALLEST track defect and proceed to drop the remaining 70 cars, thereby fouling one of the other lines. Lose two lines for the price of one!!! Here little coupler, I've got these nice little linemans pliers to fix what ails ya....

 

As Powerstemguy1790, Thirdrail, I also use the trip pins for what they are intended to do. Uncouple automatically. When you have the pins adjusted RIGHT you will have NO trouble with them. The secret is to adjust them with the MTL Coupler Guage, and the little flat metal plate that comes in the adjustment kit. When you have them on the mark, the couplers work just like they should. You will also find out where you trackwork is off also.

The adjustment of the trip pins goes hand in hand with the checking out wheel guage, and car weight. This is something that you should do for every car you run on the layout.

Have you operated on a layout with all of the rolling stock and power set up with properly adjusted MTL t/c's and good trackwork? WOW it make the layout a delight to operate with out having to mess with the derailing cars and gives the operators " HANDS OFF" operation!