(Project) Fixing the Bachmann 4-8-4

David Chong Apr 29, 2003

  1. David Chong

    David Chong E-Mail Bounces

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    Well, since I've brought up custom work, I thought people might like to see what I'm doing these days. My buddy has a few bachmann 4-8-4's, and while they run fairly well (the later models at least, with the drive wheel pickup), they look pretty bad. Instead of being round cylinders, the boilers are only round on top, and go down in flat slabs on the sides. It doesn't show up that well in pictures, but in real life you really get the sense that the boiler is arch-shaped instead of round. The details under the boiler are lousy, and the handrail is molded onto the shell. Worse yet, they used a WW1-era Reading prototype and slapped a transition-era ATSF road number on it, and called it good.

    So there's plenty to work on!

    Here are some shots of the original. I've already removed the plastic piping from the top of the boiler just in front of the cab. They are very toy-like.

    Right Side
    [​IMG]
    Note the flat slabs of plastic under the walkway where there should be open space.

    Front
    [​IMG]
    Note the flat sides, especially visible in the front corners.

    Well, this is where the transformation of a steam engine begins!
     
  2. David Chong

    David Chong E-Mail Bounces

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    Stage one is complete. I have filed, sanded, and cut for about five hours on this baby at this point. The molded-on handrails have been removed (I discovered they were not even prototypical on the front right side, but they bent them around some detail that would have otherwise been obscured). I've also filed down the mold seam that ran down the top of the shell. A big project was reducing the relief on all of the horribly oversized reinforcement bands that circle the boiler. I filed them down by about 80%, and they are much closer to matching proto photos now. I think they are even still a little big, but in this scale if we go much smaller we'll probably lose them altogether.

    [​IMG]

    The big project in this phase was the boiler shape itself. I've rounded out the bottom, getting rid of those horrible slab sides. I have also added some detail to the back side of the canister that becomes "visible after cutting away the excess plastic where the slab side met the rounded boilerplate. Lastly, I've extended the reinforcement bands down into the area that I cut away.

    [​IMG]

    So far, so good. The rounded boiler makes an incredible difference in this shell!

    My modeler's tools have really come in handy. This is probably the widest range of files, mini chisels, and knife blade types that I have ever actually found a specific use for. Usually I have just grabbed a file, because most any of them would work. Now I find myself acutally searching through my set for the just-right size and shape! Surprising, as those files have seen heavy, heavy use over the course of 15 years of detailed model building!

    [ 29. April 2003, 17:37: Message edited by: David Chong ]
     
  3. Coaltrain

    Coaltrain TrainBoard Member

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    Nice. It is good to see someone else that likes to do major surgery to a plastic steam locomotive. I have done something like that to an IHC 2-8-2 to make it look more like a USRA 2-8-2. It turned out nice, and just in time for Athearn to release their 2-8-2. Always happens, right :mad:

    Are you going to post more pics as you go along?
     
  4. David Chong

    David Chong E-Mail Bounces

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    One handrail is now finished, and this side is essentially complete. I have mounted a scratchbuilt handrail out of 0.15 wire, with 0.20 mounts. I used a pin vise to drill out the mount holes. Added a water line in accordance with prototype photos of this class of Northern.

    I also removed all the flashing where there was supposed to be open space, and reshaped the resulting free-standing hoses and gear to be round. You can see the removed areas best on the picture of the shell alone:

    [​IMG]

    I also added considerable detail to the frame, over and above the drivers. Here the flat sides of the frame used to show, and it looked very bad to my eye. So I sculpted and cast some details in plastic for sanding lines, brake reservoirs and lines, and a few items from prototype photos that I can't identify.

    [​IMG]

    I'll be giving the left side the same treatment, and then I'll be looking at prepping the worked surfaces for painting. Before I paint, I want to get rid of any micro-scratches, built up shavings in crevaces, etc.
     
  5. David Chong

    David Chong E-Mail Bounces

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    On the subject of the handrails: does anyone know where I can pick up sets of pre-made handrail mounts? Cutting 3mm-long mounts and filing and shaping them to accept the handrail really sucked, and if I ever do another handrail job I don't want to do it again.
    :rolleyes: [​IMG]
     
  6. David Chong

    David Chong E-Mail Bounces

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    Ouch, Coaltrain. Well, rest easy in the knowledge that yours is much better, right??? :D

    Yeah, I will post updates as I go. I am now caught up to current time, and I'll post pics of the left side when it is complete, then when it is finished.

    Anyone have any paint prep techniques they want to share? I have my own wash/prime dealie I'll report on, but if anyone has experience prepping surfaces that have been heavily worked like this, I'm happy to hear alternatives.
     
  7. David Chong

    David Chong E-Mail Bounces

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    This from the "answering my own questions" file:

    I found the handrail stanchions I was asking about in my LHS. "Gold Metal Models" has a stamped brass pack #160-42, "Steam Locomotive Detailing Set" (list $14). It has enough for several (2-4) locomotives, including not only stanchions, but also brake hangars, pilot ladders, tender ladders, headlight number boards in several different classic roadname shapes, and uncoupler lever lift bars. Really great stuff.

    Anyway, figured I should post the answer, even though the question was my own. [​IMG]
     
  8. porkypine52

    porkypine52 TrainBoard Member

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    Dave
    What type of drive are you going to use under this boiler? Are you going to put the original Bachmann drive back under it?
    I've never been impressed with any of the Bachmann 4-8-4 drive mechanisms. Most barely run at all.
    Looks like you are going to end up with a fine looking engine. Just hope you can get it to run as good.
     
  9. David Chong

    David Chong E-Mail Bounces

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    Well, it's funny you should ask. Actually, the original arrangement was that I was simply going to "spend a few hours making the 4-8-4 look better." I got a couple hours into it, and realized there was a ton of attention this thing could receive. So I started analyzing a specific prototype, and really went for it. My friend has now seen the engine, and liked it so much that he's interested in improving the performance to match the new looks. I also had an offline offer to do another one of these on commission, but performance is of the highest concern. So the project is sort of evolving.

    We'll probably be dropping a spare Kato motor into this baby. There is plenty of room in the cab for a much smoother motor instead of the coffee grinder that ships with it. For added traction and pickup, we will be casting and adding an additional sled of pewter on the top of the boiler, where there is only empty space in the market version. We will also be examining the pickup, giving it true all-wheel pickup on both the locomotive and the tender.

    Just about the only thing I won't have to touch is the mechanism itself, which seems to be of good quality. :rolleyes: Hopefully...

    The idea will be to end up with a good looking representation of a specific prototype that is quiet, smooth, and consistent on the rails.

    So the Project goes on! Working on the railing tomorrow.

    - David
     
  10. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    Good find on the Steam Locomotive Detailing Set, I'm going to order me a set too. Which hobby shop did you get yours from David? [​IMG]
     
  11. loco_leonard

    loco_leonard New Member

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    David: Before going to far on the mechanismmake sure the "quartering of the drivers are correct adding extra weight may cause the drive wheels to slip on the axle shaft. not easily repaired . great work on the shell. check with jim hinds at Richmond Controls. he makes a great kit for making the tender electrically active. loco_leonard.
     

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