Two ways to do this, beginning is the same: Cut four gaps in the rail around the frog, making it an "insulfrog" yet with the ability to be powered. You can leave it like this. Or, you can cut the four gaps (not needed on the two-track side if you are doing this method, just use insulating joiners), then use a SPDT switch (most commercial switch machines have one integrated, check what kind you are using) to power the frog with the correct rail bus. We use Tortoise machines, and they do this for you. Just have to wire both the N and S rails to the machine, as well as one to the frog, and it will switch polarity for you. Hope this helps.
Does this apply to HO electrofrogs as well? I have a couple of them sitting around right now unused. B-Dubya
Check out Allan Gartner's Wiring For DCC page. The HO Peco Turnouts can be wired for DCC without cutting as the electrofrog is easily isolated by removing the little jumpers from the bottom. http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm
Have a look in Allan Gartner's site on wiring for DCC: http://www.wiringfordcc.com and this page in particular: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm covers switches. It's a long page - the Peco Electrofrog is about half way down. He doesn't seem to say if the info covers N or HO - probably the same. From the description I think it will be quickly apparent. Oops, Yankinoz and I must have been writing at the same time [ 22 November 2001: Message edited by: Mike Sheridan ]</p>
