I am wondering if anyone owns one of the overland models AC4400s? Or similar diesel. Is it worth the money? How is detail and running? I have the opportunity to get one at a good price, but am hesitant b/c of the amount of money involved and don't want to get burned. Thanks for the help!
OMI makes a beautiful model. But a little too costly for my wallet. Make sure you test run the model before you buy! You can then judge how well it will do the job you want it to do.
Beautiful models. But be aware that they don't run as well as a Kato. A bit jerky, a bit noisy. I have one painted for CP Rail.
Hello tarponfly, Welcome to Trainboard I do not have any brass, as the price is a bit too much for me, but have seen several at model railway exhibitions, and they do not seem to run too well, when compared to Kato or Atlas locomotives, although the detailing is superb.
Well, the gentleman says it is brand new, test run only and assures me that while it doesn't run like a kato it is as well running as any atlas or other loco. The problem is that I really can't test run it first b/c I live states away. I called overland models for an opinion and Brian there said something similar, "doesn't run like a kato, but just as well as atlas, or any others". the model is a CPR #9500 and I love the detail on it, it's amazing. But I would like to believe that it would be functionally pleasing as well. If it is herky, jerky, how bad? As bad as some of the early bachman locos(U25B, early SD-40-2?) or some of the early life likes? Or are we really splitting hairs here saying that it doesn't run well. Any help is greatly appreciated, and thanks for the welcome to the board!
Take a look at the thread OMI's new SD70M on this list. You'll see a LARGE image of my SD70M. I have 4 brass units. Two with DCC and two that are not. My SD70MAC (DCC) runs great and is not noisy, my SD90MAC (DCC) runs like crap. The problem is with the Mickey-Mouse electrical pickups. The other 2 non-DCC units run very well. Because they are not DCC and my layout is DCC, they don't get much run time. I will be taking them in for decoders, soon. [ 24. October 2002, 00:23: Message edited by: Harold R. (aka SD75MAC) ]
I know this isn't the answer your looking for, BUT, you could buy all the tools and details to super detail a Kato -9 and make it look BETTER then an Overland for waaaay under $350. I have an SD90MAC-H (got it before Kato anounced the SD90MAC) and although it looks good, it doesn't run worth a darn. Believe me, detailing a plastic locomotive will save you money,give you satisfaction if all goes well and leave you with a better then brass looking and running locomotive. **On another note. Years ago Hallmark did SD26/24 (not sure which) in brass and used the Atlas/Kato SD7/9 mechanism. I think our current brass companys should look into this as there are many different locomotives that could be made out of current chassis. We would be left with great running, great looking locomotives a step below brass prices.
Another opinion... for that amount of money you could get a couple of engines in your favourite flavour. In N scale, we tend to need more engines, I don't buy one at a time like I did in HO. Many trains double consisted, etc.
Wow Craig, Those pics on your website are amazing, the only problem with that is that at this point in time I don't think I'm handy enough to buy a kato and super detail it to that extent (grag irons, ditch lights, plow w/mu hoses, etc). That was one of the benefits of the brass unit, it is already super detailed, and then all I have to do is weather it (I am fine in that department). Is there any options for someone in my situation? The price of the brass wasn't really an issue (well it IS but...I just sold a fishing reel that ofsets the cost of the brass). I think I would be happy with a kato or atlas with that much detail on it, but I am pretty sure that with my current modeling skill level, the outcome of me detailing and painting the parts on a loco like that are not going to be pleasing. Thanks, for all of the helpfull comments and suggestions!
Thanks for the nice comment Tarpon. I (as well as others) offer custom detailing services. You could get at least two of your favorite units with more details then the price of one brass unit. E mail me off the board if you are interested in my services. Thanks
Tarponfly, That's what I thought, when I dove headlong into superdetailing my locos. Craig is a good mentor, and sells great details. I highly recommend the wire grab irons, they are light years ahead of the comptition's fragile etched stuff. I did 2 pair of SD40-2 snoot Katos in BNSF, (stock Kato paint, wire grabs all replaced, wire lift rings, windshield wipers, MU hoses, MU cables, MT couplers, renumbering) and sold them on ebay, a pair at a time. One pair went for 172 bucks, and the other went for 227 dollars. I guess SOMEONE thought my first try wasn't half bad! After the snoots sold, I started superdetailing my SD80/90MACs. I custom painted them in BN fantasy-prototypical schemes. But that's another story.
Tarponfly, I have seen Craigs work and in my opinion i would rather buy 2 Kato locomotives and send them to Craig and have them superdetailed. I'm sure you will still have change left over from the one brass locomotive.
Here is a sample of Craig's work. <img src=http://members.cox.net/chesapeakenscaler/rrpics/CR_SD80_4123.jpg> I agree with the others here, the brass loco's just don't run as well as the Kato or Atlas ones. I learned the hard way
