can any one tell me the or have a diagrame as to how the gears go on the rear truck and do the traction tires go on the same side im trying to fix my e7a ??
My advice - buy a LL E7A. I have one of those old E7's too. Still sort of works, but I'm not in any hurry to fix it up.
Those Roco E7's were only fair runners/lookers back when they were made (about 1977). One bad thing was the fragile wiring that connected the truck electrical pickups to the motor. The motors and gearing weren't all that great either. Parts haven't been available for many years. I didn't even remember that they had traction tires. I could look at mine and the instruction sheet that came with them and see whether I can give you some hints. Mike - NYC1956
I have to agree with Bruce.... buy a LL E7 instead! If you shop wisely, they can be had for less than $20. and run very well! If you are partial to your existing shell, you may be able to modify it to run on the LL chassis. Harold
Ross- At one time you could get the service sheets with "exploded views" from Atlas. Believe they were about 50 cents each. I had all. But got rid of them and old diesels, when newer and better locos became available. Doubt they can still be had, but you might try contacting their customer service and ask. Perhaps they'd have an old one they could photocopy or? They've been helpful to me, and I've done well in getting parts for needed repairs. Good Luck! BoxcabE50
I have a scan of the Atlas E7 disassembly sheet. It doesn't recommend taking the trucks apart! It notes that there are 43 separate parts. I'll just give a URL link to the photo on my site. Don't want to display the large scan unless you need it. ( 390KB). Had to keep it large to save the quality of the small print. Just inlarge image when displayed . Atlas E7 assembly sheet ...Eddie
I'm seeing the LL E-units for half the price they started out at. They look & run well, and I have one in Frisco colors (looking for another one, BTW- hint, hint :wink). If I were you, I'd disconnect the drive train between the motor & the trucks, and run the old E as a dummy with a powered LL or Kato E- that is, if the shell looks good.
I don't know... the LL E7A may be a good runner but I thought one of the reasons we buy models is because they look like what they are suppose to be, and in that area the shell (at least) falls short. A better bet (if a truly accurate E7A is desired) would be to use the LL chassis and parts of both the Roco/Atlas E7A shell with the cab and nose of a Kato F-unit (F3A phase I for small numberboards, F7A for large numberboards). At least then you would be a great deal closer to having something that is accurate. As far as the traction tires go, if you put them all on the same side you will not be able to pick up the power from the tracks correctly... so...
There are 3 mechanisms that match the old E7-E9A Atlas/|Concor shells. First is the original mechanism with the pickup buttons, vertical shaft motor and single drive (awful); if this is the one, either toss it and use it for parts or take all the guts out and make it a dummy. or, 2) the Roco mechanism which is all wheel drive, all wheel pickup and smooth mechanism; if this is the one and you have all of the parts, carefully take the plate off the other truck as both trucks are geared alike, and match it truck for truck., and 3) the ConCor Kato mechanism, which parts are still available through independent repair people around you. I hope this provides some help. Suggesting to use the LifeLike chassis is also a good one, but you might not want to sacrifice the LifeLike shell as they are too well detailed and painted. They are available for as little as $10, and I have seen good ones sell at swap meets for as little as $5. I am still pinching myself from that particular swap meet. I was there early and one seller was dumping, er giving away his entire collection for practically nothing. He was selling Kato E8's for $25, and that was a weekend I was low on funds. Always happens, but will never let it happen again. Ken "Steamguy" Willaman
