Now Athearn coupler problems

qquake2k May 29, 2019

  1. Tony Burzio

    Tony Burzio TrainBoard Supporter

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    If it makes you feel any better, the couplers on the real locomotive that is modeled here doesn’t work well either. I watched them try and couple to a stalled engine at Fullerton (near LA) a few years back, and they couldn’t ... :)
     
    Rich_S, MK and BarstowRick like this.
  2. qquake2k

    qquake2k TrainBoard Member

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    Wow, I've never seen that before!
     
  3. qquake2k

    qquake2k TrainBoard Member

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    Thank you for the kind words. It's definitely not prototypical, but it is fun. I have very eclectic tastes in locomotives and cars. I will be enlarging it to a 4x8 layout sometime this year, with six tracks instead of the four I have now. Then I can get back to running the Japanese DE10 I have.
     
  4. qquake2k

    qquake2k TrainBoard Member

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  5. qquake2k

    qquake2k TrainBoard Member

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    It looks like the couplers are attached with screws.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    I no longer have the patience or dexterity to put my own couplers together. The #1015-1 is what I order. On the downside there are some locomotives I can't make a clean conversion. Requiring me to cut away clearance to install it. Not pretty but it works. I found a oversized snow plow hides a lot.

    For my FT's, F3's and F7's, ABBA sets. I use Caboose Hobbies dummy knuckle couplers. Now under a different name. Nice short fit and they won't cause you any uncoupling problems. I'll have to search for the name of the new manufacturer.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2019
  7. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    Edit time ran out so here's the name I was looking for. The dummy couplers are now made by Fox Valley. Several different shank sizes to pick from. The best on your project.
     
  8. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

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    The MT 1015-1016s are available pre-assembled and come with shims to raise or lower the coupler and mounting screws. The only difference between the 1015 and 1016 is a wider swing. Most of the time the 1015 is adequate. You maybe able to use the same screw to mount the 1015s and if not then the provided screws. Sometimes the coupler mounting box needs to be trimmed for the 1015s to fit properly and at other times they are a simple drop in, depends on the manufacturer.
    And in answer to the question yes they are the assembled.

    The unimate dummy coupler comes in both a screw mount and as a T shank and are great if you don't need auto uncoupling but will couple to MTs. I should add they also come in three shank lengths and the screw mounted one comes with two screw holes to adjust length.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2019
    BarstowRick likes this.
  9. qquake2k

    qquake2k TrainBoard Member

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    I've tried the Fox Valley couplers on cars. I have a hard time getting them to couple to anything.
     
  10. bill pearce

    bill pearce TrainBoard Member

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    They do require some work, but a bit of practice should do it. You need to understand that they h ave no working parts. They must be coupled by lifting the car off the track and sliding one knuckle into the other. Not fancy, a bit fiddly and in no way prototypical, but they hold like iron. I like to use them for cars like F7's and PS's that are always used coupled together, and need to be closely coupled to make diaphragms work. Also good for unit trains. Coupling them to MT's can be iffy.
     
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  11. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    With regard to the Unimate, now Fox Valley dummy couplers. That's exactly what they are non-working...dummies. You can't perform actual switch moves and hope they line up and couple automatically.

    For them to fit into MT's, I have to trim the outside of them just a tad. With some assistance they will slip into MT's fine pocket.

    They work well on ABBA sets of F types and as Bill said, unit trains.

    I have some GP and SD types that run in set-lash-ups and I've found they work well in these applications.

    Hope everything is working out for the OP.
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2019
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  12. dualgauge

    dualgauge TrainBoard Member

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    I use the Unimate now Fox Valley dummy couplers between locomotive consists and Micro-trains on both ends. I do not brake up consists, will not uncouple. Can also close couple engines. Verne Niner wrote an article using between Life Like C liners. Couplers are cheaper than Micro-Trains also.
     
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  13. BNSF FAN

    BNSF FAN TrainBoard Supporter

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    I am also a fan of the Unimate couplers for consist or blocks of cars that are to remain together. They are solid an good performers. I've never had one break while in use. I'll admit I like the look of some of the other couplers but for best performance and reliability, it's just M/T for operating couplers and Unimate's for non operational couplers.
     
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  14. qquake2k

    qquake2k TrainBoard Member

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    I've been playing around. The gondola between the two F59's has MT couplers on both ends. The SP F59 doesn't come uncoupled from the Amtrak F59. I still don't know what the problem is. I bought a package of 1015-1 assembled MT couplers, I just need to figure out how to put them on the F59's. Anybody have any tips?



     
  15. Rich_S

    Rich_S TrainBoard Member

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    What are you having troubles with? From the photos I've seen, it looks like the MT 1015's should be a direct replacement for the McHenery couplers. Remove the screw, remove the McHenery coupler and coupler box, insert the screw into the MT 1015 coupler / coupler box and be sure not to over tighten the screw. If you are having problems with the MT 1015 couplers on the front of the F59's, you may need to purchase MT 1016 medium shank couplers for the front of the F59's.

    https://www.micro-trains.com/univer...assembled-1016-1-00102006?search=medium shank
     

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