Some people like to enjoy eye-level views of things along the edges of a layout. With careful design, you can avoid cars crashing to the floor and have good views of trains at the same time. Clear plastic is also an option, but I never liked it because of reflections and the distracting top edge.
strategically placed shrubs, telephone poles, and fences can solve this problem without blocking the view.
greetings Bill looks like you have been working with skill and creativity in developing your trackplan. good for you! the progress is very noticeable and it looks like things are coming together nicely. kudos on a fine job! the only thing i would suggest, and it is one of those things that might be just my own pet peeve, so take that into consideration: more interest may be added to a trackplan and the finished railroad when as in few places as possible the track actually runs parallel to the edge, regardless of how close or far back it is to the edge. this seems to be especially true when the layout is built on square or rectangular foundation. just a "for what it's worth". again, thanks for sharing your progress and enjoy! respectfully Gary L Lake Dillensnyder
I totally agree, Gary, and I usually do my best to do just that. However, in this case the limitation is using Unitrack. It becomes quite a challenge to get long, smooth arcs and aesthetic angles with it. About the only thing you can do is "tilt" the whole track plan a few degrees relative to the benchwork, but this tends to reduce the usable area.
Well after moving track around all day I ended up going in in a totally different direction. I added a foot to the inside of the bottom of the L shape to get a broader curve and put the yard on the other side of the L shape. I am going to play around with it a little bit more , this is what I have so far. Thanks Bill
Greetings David! Yes, there is much more of a challenge when it comes to Unitrack or other like systems. I suppose I am thinking that more curves could be added using the larger radius track such as #20-150 (28+" radius) and being open to such things as making Unitrack more custom: http://www.fiferhobby.com/html/how_to_make_your_own_lengths_o.html. Then, there is also the Conversion Track #20-045 which one might use to connect other brand of flex track (code 80 with cork roadbed or something like that). Just trying to present all the options. Again, yes I agree with you that Unitrack can be limiting, but there are some options still open. Respectfully, Gary L Lake Dillensnyder
The longer-radius curves are indeed an excellent way of making things less "circle around the tree"-like. That's the approach I used for this plan, which I designed as a challenge in answer to some anti-Unitrack remarks: As for cutting Unitrack or mixing it up with other track brands, I generally tend to avoid this unless the modeler explicitly expresses a desire to do so.
David Very wonderfully done! I like it, a lot... If i wasn't so invested in Atlas code 55 I would be tempted to make the switch. Thanks so much for sharing. Sincerely Gary L Lake Dillensnyder
Getting better for sure. I would recommend adding another crossover on the mainline, on the front line at City/Town. You might also be able to tilt the whole plan a few degrees counterclockwise to add interest. Kind of like this--
I have been pretty busy this past week and have not had much layout time , I have been playing with these 2 . Thanks for looking Bill
IMHO you need two double crossovers, otherwise trains running in opposite directions can be trapped. Probably you will have to use one of the main tracks as a yardlead (labeled drill in my drawing), the second set of crossovers allows running around switching moves. At least one train can remain orbiting around. If needed the "hidden" tracks at the left can hold one or two trains out of sight. I could not resist adding some spurs along the river or canal. Anyway paying attention to scenery in this stage of planning would be wise. Smile Paul
New Direction Well after many revisions to my track plan I have come to realize I just dont like it. The L shaped plan just does not work for me. So I am think I am going in a new direction a 10x6 pit type layout with a duckunder or lift off I will figure that out when I rebuild the bench work. It will be something along these lines. I would like to thank everyone for all the help on the old plan also. Thanks Bill
How high is the benchwork, off your floor? Thinking about a duckunder, and all the times my back complained (loudly), or I had unintentionally banged into the layout....
This is a huge problem, especially for N scale. I had a pit style layout eons ago, and I'd never do it again. I'd much sooner go with a U-shaped plan. But, it's your call, of course.
