Purchased online for $995.00, paypal's bill-me-now knocked $10 off for each $100 spent,so technically $895. As far as the wiring/power issue goes,I think I'm going to start checking out various things. Here's what I'll try: Connect the wire running to the layout straight to the power pack. This will bypass the panel on the front of the layout(as pictured on the first page in the first group of photos Swap out the new power pack for the old one and see if the power pack is potentially an issue. Start checking the individual wires as well as the track to see if they're receiving power. I still think the power just isn't getting through somewhere,the trick is finding it. I do not want to tear up any of the scenery to start looking for wires at all costs,if possible. I will also add that when I went to pick the layout up,the owner there had a power pack hooked up and was running a train with a cleaning car behind it,so I know it does work.
The layout runs when I connect the power pack straight to the wire running into the layout(bypassing the front panel). However,the panel on the front controls all the turnouts. My brother did see a few wires that are loose,so that may be part of the problem. I think I'm making progress here...just not sure how close I am to getting things going.
My brother and I did a little looking around on the wiring underneath the layout about a week and a half ago,found a couple loose wires,the problem with that is figuring out where those go. I might take a photo of the underside if anyone wants to see it. I had a friend come down for a race the other day,and before we left for the track,he snapped a few photos of the layout. The lighting difference between his photos and mine is due to an external flash,he was using it to bounce light off the walls. Last photo shows how shiny an unweathered boxcar can be. I might take a few more photos here and there,but until I can get the layout running,I probably won't be doing much.I haven't bought any new rolling stock or locomotives yet,either.
your code 80 track looks pretty realistic when its got the rail painted rusty! ive never had any peco turnouts. are those manual switches and how do the peco switches work?? do you just move the switch points with your fingers and they lock in place or something???
They have motors to operate the turnout. I'm not sure how all that's set up,but I have a spare turnout and motor. There's a board on the front of the layout with toggles for the power blocks as well as the switches...if I ever get it working.
Went over to try to work on the wiring today. Seems like every wire I'd try to strip or reconnect would result in the wire next to it coming out. I'll post some pictures of the wiring shortly,though I don't know how much help it'll be. I'm honestly at the end of my rope with this thing..had it for a month and still haven't gotten it running. Might just go find something else to do with my time..
These photos are not high quality,sorry,but I guess they can still illustrate some of the issues. I'll try to add some more details when it comes to me. Here's the main "section" of the wiring: The two wires running up into the underside of the layout at the top run directly to the track,if I'm not mistaken. These two things are on the front fascia of the layout. The one on the right is supposed to look like the one on the left,except I've had some wires come loose on me. I've never seen these things before getting the layout,so I'm a little unsure on how to get the broken pieces of wire out and get the new ones in. Using a wire stripper is also a major PITA.
You've got a great layout so I encourage you not to give up. The wiring definately looks ratty so if worst come to worst I'd recommend disconnecting everything and first identifying the rail feeders. If you're using DC with blocks, just route each feeder pair to a terminal strip for the correct block and attach a buss wire from the brock through a toggle switch to the power pack. Peco switch machines will have three conductors per switch. One is a common and the other two go to each side of the machine. Each side will probably be connected to a momentary contact switch with the common to both. Any other wires under the layout are likely to building lighting or other assesories. Use a tester or continuity meter to trace any unknown wire and as previously noted you can check for insulated blocks the same way. Note that some layouts are wired with a common rail so check both rails for continuity to determine insulated blocks. Your layout shows the desirability of color coding and labeling wiring. Hang in there.
Went over again today and messed with the layout. Tried hooking up the now loose "DC" wire from the power pack to the feeder wire,with no luck. Didn't knock any more wires loose thankfully. I'm still to the point of paying someone(custom layout builder,whoever) to come fix this thing so I can run trains...barring that I'd rather just be rid of the whole thing. I stopped in a LHS I haven't been to before in Louisville yesterday,they had a small N scale selection but plenty of L&N stuff,just passed it by since I figured there was slim chance I could run any of it soon. Their O gauge stuff makes me wanna switch scales.
And what about complaining to the guy who sold you this layout? Apparently, he did not sell you a ready-to-run layout. Maybe he can help you?
The layout runs,it was running when I went to pick it up from him,and I managed to get it to run by connecting the power pack to the wire that led directly to the track feeders,though that wire is too short to really run to the front of the layout and connect to the power pack. I've got a panel on the front for all the turnouts/blocks, I'd like to be able to use it instead of just having it sit there for looks. Problem is the wire I mention is one of the ones that has come loose,and I'm not sure where to hook it up.
