Howdy all you N-scalers out there!! This is the first N-scale post of what I expect will be many!! My HO scale l;ayout has gone by the wayside in favor of a N-scale shelf type layout (scale chosen by my 4-year-old). I built an N-scale layout many years ago, and this one will be a revisit of that layout, but times have changed. So I am certain that I will have many questions for you folks!! Basically, the layout will be shelf-type in my garage. It will be constructed of 2 by 4 foot foam modules (got a great deal on the foam!!). Since I have never built modular before I am looking for any tips and or advice you may have. Thanks and Happy Modeling!! John ------------------ The Colorado and Southwestern, Top of the Rockies! http://jstrainstation.homestead.com
I use modules too, and modified the N-Trak standard for home use. I came up with Sub-N so I could rearrange my modular layout to fit available space as I move. The only thing I didn't like about N-Trak was the 3 track mainline. ------------------ Robert Ray The NP & UP N-Scale Railroad
Ever thought of making a transition module? One end fits the three tracks, then has switches down to the two track at the other end. Play with the thought and some file cards with your tracks drawn on, and you will be surprised at the combinations you come up with. One combination was a corner module with a single branch splitting the center. The corner with the diagonal track was made to connect to a peninsula for operators to make up trains and serve as yards to keep the show moving. I forgot, there was two corner modules, one had a mine and the other logging. The modules between them had three full size tracks and one narrow gauge that connected the corners. The rest of the modules were standard except two that narrowed from 3 tracks to 2 tracks. A crossover and switch was on these modules. [This message has been edited by watash (edited 07 November 2000).]
John, you made a good move coming over to N Scale Watash, I like your ideas on flexibility. I have never built any modular layouts, but they certainly do allow variety Good luck John with whatever you decide on. There are always folks here to give advice, and keep us imformed of progress ------------------ Alan The perfect combination - BNSF and N Scale! www.alancurtismodels.com Andersley Western Railroad Alan's American Gallery
John,That is one smart 4 year old you have there. Ya got any questions to ask ,don't be bashful. ------------------ Catt!#118
JC... Told ya long ago N was the way to go.. so whats the go with yer page now? Leaving the old layout there as a memorial to it??! ------------------ RR: K, C, & Bird Butt Railroad - SP, NS, and ROCK admirer. Its a coal mining region of a place far far away, that runs, SP, NS, and some CSX.. Also some Custom RARE Bird RR sd40-2's coming! Era: Time stands still round these parts, and we have everything from Steam, to Diesels of today.
Hey Bird!! Yeah the old layout will remain on the web until I can replace it with the new layout . Hopefully I can start that this summer...it will take that long to get the new layout to the point that it looks like something more than a bunch of track on foamboard !! How are things with your layout?? Happy Modeling!! John ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
Pray59 I really like the Sub-N concept and will plan on working with it. My Modules are pre-cut to be 2' by 4', except the corner, which is larger. Any problems with that size? Also, how does one "cover" the cracks between modules if the layout is to be "permanent?" Thanks and Happy Modeling!! John ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by watash: Duct tape! (It can take paint, but peels off to dismantle, easily hidden.) <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Of Course!! Why didn't I think of that...I am the Duct Tape King !! WHere would the world be with out that scientific marvel?? Thanks for the advice, and Happy Modeling!! John ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
Glad to help, John. You might want to use a marks-a-lot under the layout to mark both modules next to the seam with a number. Start the tape from under the tables, so you can mark the same number on this end of the tape. It wont show from the top. Continue the tape up the side, across the module top, then down the side again, and under that end. Mark that end of the tape number 2 and both modules 2 also there. Now use an old clean dish drainer (wire) to stick the tapes onto to take to a show, so they can be re-installed at the show in their proper place. You get the idea? Saves a lot of scenery paint. ------------------ Watash
That works by me!! I am also starting an under-frame. I used 1 x 2's salvaged from the old RR, cut 2 foot wide. These were screwed to the "L" shelf supports already in place on the wall. I am using smaller lumber (the previous house owner left it behind, I don't know the dimension) across the 1 x 2 wood for longitudinal support. The support wood is cut 4' long, the length of the module. In the trial module, I am finding that the wood is slightly out of true, causing the foam not to sit flush on top of it. Any suggestions on how to fix/avoid this problem? Thanks, and Happy Modeling!! ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
What are you going use for ground cover over the foam panels? Why not just hook your modules together and put ground cover over the joint. If you need to take the modules apart, you can just redo the ground cover over the joint again. As for the note that all your lumber is not true, BE CAREFUL! Do you want to have a roadbed that looks like a rollercoaster? Make sure that everything is square. DO NOT USE SHORT CUTS. You want the best possible framework that you can get. If you need to run the lumber thru a table saw to get it square, do it. Your good framework/benchwork is the foundation of your layout. DON'T CUT CORNERS ON BENCHWORK, DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME! ------------------ Let's Go Run Trains MARK
JCater, Porkypine is correct, make sure your modules are flat and true! Even with the over-sized flanges on N gauge wheels, the trucks made todwy are not like we used to get. Our (good) trucks would allow one wheel to rise up or fall down a bout 1/16th inch while the other three or five wheels were still on the rails. The trucks made today are rigid. They probably wouldn't derail, but you will have circuit trouble, especially with DCC. Go out and look down some real railroad tracks and notice that they are not flat nor straight. That's the real world. We made efforts to model that up and down contour, but we had the trucks to do it with back then. Lindsey trucks even had real working coil springs on 4 and 6 wheel trucks! You can't buy that today. It is just one of the sacrifices the manufacturers made for you. I'm sorry, but good trucks eat into the manufacturer's profits too much. That's why you now have injection molded plastic trucks, instead of die cast Zamac #5 metal trucks with workinmg springs. Lindsey was the Rolls Royce of the industry. ------------------ Watash
Thanks guys...I really don't want short cuts in this thing because I know all too well where that leads to. You mention the Lindsay trucks...guess what?? I still have several box cars with those very trucks !! It is good to know how things have changed in this scale since I last modeled in it. In terms of ground foam, I intend to use very fine blends of Woodland Scenics. Since this is set in the southern southwest, tans and browns will be the order of the day!! Antoher question though: what is the best light weight scenic material for covering mesas and mountains. Hydrocal?? I am a plaster man from way back, but since this layout needs to be light weight... Thanks again, and Happy Modeling!! John ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
Watash, don't tell me they made those Lindsey trucks in N scale because i won't believe it! They do sound like great trucks though. Wish someone would make something like that to P87 specs at a reasonable price...
We're just getting a little off topic here, but Kadee HO trucks are metal and are sprung, so get those!! ------------------ Corey Lynch Pres - Rensselaer Model RR Society, NEB&W RR http://www.rpi.edu/~lynchc/Railfanning/railfanning.htm - My Site http://www.union.rpi.edu/railroad/ - NEB&W
Seems funny maybe, but I quit using plaster because it is hard. I use foam, now to reduce damage to the tiny details that break off if an engine turns over. Herron, How long ago did K-D make those sprung trucks? I ordered a pair, and received a pair of rigid plastic, with plastic wheels in 1999. Better still, where do you order the sprung trucks from today? JCater, interested in selling those old wornout beat up HO Lindsey trucks? You can even keep the cars, and I'll send you two trucks for one on top of that!! No Tunnel88, I never saw or heard of Lindsey into N at all. I think they quit about the time N got started. If you are wanting a hard surface on the foam, you might wipe off the air horns if you have a derail. I have used curtains and old panty hose. I use water base laytex paint, then lay panty hose on to stick in place. Then another coat, and drape toilet paper over that. It is not heavy, has some "give", and can be easily cut, and a heavy engine just plows into it, (so far) with no damage. ------------------ Watash
Sorry, can't give up the trucks or cars, gift from my Dad many years ago...Really pantyhose and toilet paper ?? What a concept, it sounds so odd coming from my "traditional" modeling background that I simply must try it !! Happy Modeling!! John ------------------ The Santa Fe and Southwestern, Chief of the Southwest!!
Watash, Try this link, it goes to Walthers search for Kadee trucks. If you look at the bottom they sell truck springs. At our club, we use the archbar trucks, and they all are metal and sprung, with the standard Kadee 33" metal wheelsets. ------------------ Corey Lynch Pres - Rensselaer Model RR Society, NEB&W RR http://www.rpi.edu/~lynchc/Railfanning/railfanning.htm - My Site http://www.union.rpi.edu/railroad/ - NEB&W
