Need someone to do some 3D printing...

mtntrainman May 23, 2020

  1. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Help !!!

    I am need of someone who has a 3D printer who can make me some pasture fence.:whistle:

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2953034

    I need them printed in white material. I need 60 pieces for our ranch !! We are finally working on this area of the layout and we cant keep the horses in without fencing...lol.:LOL:

    If anyone can help...drop me a line. TIA (y)
     
  2. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    I saw that fence recently and saved it but didn't print it. I just did print it with the gray filament I have (don't have any white).

    First one was more or less ruined coming off the build table. They are really flimsy, which I guess they have to be to be somewhat in scale. Here are a couple pictures of the second one...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    In my haste to take a picture before the paint was totally dry some came off on the left side while moving it.

    If you PM'd me your address I'd mail this one down so you could decide if it would work or not along with a couple out of the printer untouched. If you did want some I could probably print them for you but I only have gray and black filament and at the moment don't need white. A spool would cost around $20 at the moment on Amazon if available. Not sure how the white prints. It might be my imagination but it seems the gray prints better than the black so not sure about the white.

    Sumner
     
  3. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    PM Sent...Thanks :D:D
     
  4. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Hmm, I wonder if the issue is deposition printing vs resin. The person who posted said he printed on an Anycubic Photon.

    George, I was going to fire up the printer either to tomorrow or Monday, so I’ll see how these print on my Photon S.
     
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  5. Joe Lovett

    Joe Lovett TrainBoard Member

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    I could use some N scale ice blocks, they measure 22x32x44 inches so that would be 0.13x0.20x0.27 and would need to be clear resin.

    They are for my newly completed ice house complex for the Boston Mountains Sub Division layout.

    Your help will be greatly appreciated.

    Joe

    20200523_182834.jpg
     
  6. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Sounds good Rick. I dont need rivet counter quality...but would like it to look pretty good.
     
  7. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    Joe I made some this morning but no clear. I'll get back to you later today or tonight with what I did. Hopefully someone will come through with the clear. I don't have that filament but they do have it. They are resin printed but came out good as they are big enough objects.

    Sumner
     
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  8. Joe Lovett

    Joe Lovett TrainBoard Member

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    Thank you Sumner for making the ice blocks. Do you have my address? Will send it in a pm.

    Joe
     
  9. wvgca

    wvgca TrainBoard Member

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    best price that I found for the clear PLA filament [not the resin] was 19.95 [from amazon.ca] but 11.95 shipping on top [i'm not a prime member]
     
  10. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    George,

    I’m not happy with these. I printed as the STL originator suggested, flat on the build plate. I was (correctly) concerned that would cause a widening of the slats.

    47514F65-0766-45FE-8D6F-39B7FD09A919.jpeg

    the top two are the “backside” (flat against the build plate) while the bottom three are the front. You can see that the posts are rising above the plate, but the resin spreads around them and in between the slats. If I try to raise them off the build plate and build supports, that would leave a bunch of little nibs on the back, and due to the thinness of the part, the print may fail.

    I will think on this some more. (Or this might meet your needs as is)
     
  11. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Yep, total failure raising the fence up and trying to support from below. Not enough material for the supports to hold on to. Supports are on base plate, fencing on FEP film in resin reservoir.
     
  12. SLSF Freak

    SLSF Freak Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    It's a gamble but you could try printing on the build plate again but lower your exposure time for initial layers to 15s and maybe even lower the number of initial layers to 2 or 3. That will fix the spreading issue, but it might not stick to the build plate. For something that thin I'd give it a 50/50 shot of actually working. Is your normal exposure setting in the 10 second "range" ?

    Mike
     
  13. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    For the Anycubic Grey resin, I use a normal exposure of 5.5 seconds. That seems to be the sweet spot, based on the exposure tests I’ve done.

    I was thinking about shorter bottom layer exposure. I’ll give it a try.
     
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  14. spyder62

    spyder62 TrainBoard Member

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  15. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Rick those look great for my needs. (y)(y)

    Such a small part isnt gonna look bad from viewing distance. :)

    I like what ya printed. let me PM Ya. :whistle:
     
  16. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    I went ahead and designed some fencing today. It is close to what Josh did and posted on thingiverse that I printed out and what Rick printed out. It is shown in our posts above.

    I made the horizontal boards 2" X 6" and the Posts 8" x 8" for more depth and I'll be posting two different print files.


    [​IMG]

    The picture above shows the 'Flush Board' version of the fence. It is printed flat on the printer's table and the back side of the fence is all flat with the horizontal boards flush with the back of the posts. This wouldn't be typical if the boards were nailed to the posts. I thought I'd have to print it this way for the print to work.

    [​IMG]

    The 'Raised Board' version shown above prints with the horizontal boards showing up on top of the posts on one side of the posts like a fence would normally be built. The problem with printing like this normally is that the printer has to lay down filament over areas where there is no support underneath. In this case the bottom of the posts and the area where the posts span from board to board.

    [​IMG]

    I decide to try it and was surprised that the Ender handled it quite well. You results might vary.


    I have more info on both on my web site here....

    http://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/3D-Printer/page-17.html

    ... and will get them up on my thingiverse account tonight or tomorrow.

    Sumner
     
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  17. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I tried printing the original file flat on plate with only 3 bottom layers (there are only 19 layers in total, at 0.03mm per layer). I used a 20 second bottom exposure, for mixed results.

    Out of 10 which should have printed, got 5 “usable”, 2 “doubles” (where 1 print lifted and merged with its neighbor), and one left behind in the reservoir.

    C63BA28D-3312-4B7B-A24F-7C3A5B99B9A3.jpeg

    The slats are much nicer, but printing is iffy. Going to try 35 seconds bottom layer exposure, staying with three. And increase layer thickness to 0.035mm
     
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  18. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    With making them all around 'thinner'...wont it make them more brittle and almost to delicate to use ? :eek::cautious:

    "Enquiring minds want to know" :whistle:
     
  19. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Actually, a bit more flexible, but yes, these are always going to delicate.

    Anyway, I am now declaring SUCCESS! Went to the settings I mentioned above, plus increased normal exposure to 6.5 seconds (from 5.5). As expected, we see a bit more widening of the slats, but not nearly as much as in the original.

    7F8B1A9F-D25D-4EBF-BA48-6E99C1223830.jpeg
     
  20. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    Those are looking great ! (y)(y)
     

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