Yeah, it's neat to build in Z. It's like N used to be, if you wanted it, build it from scratch. But, it's getting better. The quality is there, and the detail that is possible is astounding! Back on topic, what do you guys think of my modest plan? Critique away!
For a small layout plan, that looks good. It's a classic Over/Under plan that allows a little operation, and lots of eye candy for those times you just want to watch a train run. There is no "Spaghetti" involved, and a good ratio of scenery to track. I say, go for it! -Robert
It opens the layout up to look larger than it really is. Are 2% grades sufficient to get enough elevation to clear doublestacks on the lower tracks? Can I go with a lesser grade?
Yes, looking at that layout and guestimating a start of the grade outside the tunnel on the bottom right for the lower level, it looks like there is 8 feet of track until you cross over the lower track. That allows almost 2 inches of height above the lower track with a 2% grade. I would think you might get away with a 1.5% grade and still clear double stack cars, depending on how carefully you prepare the grade. I would think a 15 car stack train should look about right, and run just fine. A 24 car coal drag pulled by a couple Rio Grande SD45's would look real cool too! And as far as scenery goes... There is room for a coal mine with a concrete loader, a decent sized town with a couple rail fed industries, and a small intermodal yard moved with piggy packers on the bottom side. You will be suprised how much action you can pack in such a small space! -Robert
If AZL would release SD45's in plastic, I'd buy some.. The brass ones are too rich for my blood. I was thinking I could get away with easier grades, I may still be able to do it...
hi hemi, we're in sync on the SD45s. i'd love a rio grande unit. caboose in denver has two UP SD45s left for $675 each. no can do, for me. look, i don't want to be the wet blanket, but i think you need to know that you have something of an optical illusion going on in your track plan. it's easy to draw track, but when you get to fitting the real thing, suddenly the track-plan shrinks. consider your by pass at the bottom of the plan. if you think about it you've only got about a 1" separation (or less) between track centerlines. ok if you want to do it, but when it comes to laying real track and switches you'll find your sidings will require more space than what's drawn. that's 24 inches along the left/right egdes -- mark it off and i think you'll see what i'm getting at. i'm not dissing your work, by any means -- i like your plan. i'm working on a 2x4 Z layout as well, and when i began placing actual track on the layout i found i couldn't do everything i had intended! keep us informed. dave f.
Dave, I understand that, and am planning on a siding that will fit an engine, and 5-8 cars, incl. a caboose. Th siding length will shrink somewhat. To what extent, I don't know yet. It happens to the best of us, and I have done it myself before, too!
As usual, compromises drive this hobby.. I laid my risers for the grade over the snowy weekend. The grade stretches about 6 feet. Similar to Tennessee Pass at Pando, CO, the grade levels out for a siding. The grade begins at 2% for 24", then stiffens to 2.4% for the remainder of the climb. As for the compromise, the siding length is about 16-17" 4-50' cars, caboose and engine will fit. I think 5-40' cars will also fit, with caboose and engine. I don't want to kink the track too much before a turnout. Otherwise, I could have longer sidings. Progress pics hopefully tonite!
I'm glad you have made some progress past the armchair phase. Now that your layout is started, You will slowly find yourself turning hardcore Z modeler. (Fishy got a hook in his mouth!) I can't wait to see pictures of your progress. I know you said this is a layout for your wife, but I think you will be getting the most satisfaction out of it. -Robert
Kristal has already accused me of that, since I tacked on a few extras to a flextrack order from FRTS.. Namely a pair of undec GP35's, 2 stack cars, and a pair of Christmas cars. Honestly, the holiday cars were her idea! I am jonesin' to get started laying track! I have a few scenic plans, and plenty of foam... I want dramatic scenery. I'm just dabbling in Z for now. Way too much N to quit that now. Slightly off-topic: Have you ever used contact adhesive, the low-VOC type, to affix cork to foam before?
I have not, but what you can use with great results, is Scotch 924 Transfer Adhesive . This stuff is the glue part of tape, and a waxy paper packing. It is the super strong stuff like used to seal an overnight letter. It's cheap, and instant! Once you use this stuff, you will never go back to contact cement again! -Robert
This is the stuff that you stick to the backside of microplywood, then lasercut to make "Peel and Stick" doors, windows, roofs, and trim. This stuff don't mess around. Well, if you get a roll, you can use it for all kinds of things. You ever try to apply Cambell Roof Shingles to a structure kit with glue? I did for the last 30 years, until a few weeks ago when I found this stuff. Remember, it's NOT TAPE! It's the super duper mega sticky glue that they use to seal Fedex Boxes, Overnight Letters, ad stuff like that. When it touches paper or cardboard, it's forever. The paper will tear off, but not the glue. The glue peels off sticky side out, and it's meant for a special adhesive dispenser gun. I stick it to my micro plywood, then laser cut out roof pieces, and build my model. When it's time to apply the shingles, I peel off the waxpaper backing and apply coarses of lasercut shingles that look like the cambell roof shingles. In minutes I have a 3d roof! I have more uses for it, but it really speeds up the job! As far as sticking cork to foam, it will do the job just fine. All you do is apply it to the backside of the cork strips, burnish it in a bit, and you have in effect produced "Self Stick Cork Roadbed"! -Robert
I like the design, especially the angled viewblock. If you can run a skyboard down the middle it will provide more height with less work in construction of mountains, and allows for more depth perception, while enhancing the viewblock aspect. I would suggest that you leave your options open by having at least 1 track run to the edge as a spur, so that you could add on to the layout at some point. I am thinking of a little larger deal (3x6 feet) with a wye on one corner to facilitate options for expansion to a staging yard that would allow trains to run onto the layout from either direction. Thus allowing operations to the on-layout town/city from east/west. Just keep in mind options... Allow for future expansion. Another couple of feet here or there can mean a major expansion. Adam
I thought I bought the right stuff, nope, Walmart doesn't have it. What I bought was http://javascript:itemDetail'1328637' Scotch 4010T . Prolly similar. But not the right stuff. Where do you buy yours? Do you get it locally?
I bought mine at papermart where I get all my shipping supplies. Papermart Tape Page You can find it a t lots of places like craft stores and art supply stores by the mattboard and picture frame section. Mister Art sells it: 3M Scotch ATG Adhesive Transfer Tape 924 -Robert
One of these days, I'll have progress pics, but for now, a simple progress report will have to do... Grade all laid down, cork installed on entire mainline and passing sidings. The spurs and stuff are laid, awaiting dry time for cork to be installed. The contact adhesive I bought is what I'm using, and it works well. About the same room for error as with the ATG stuff... Basic scenic land forming has begun. [ March 24, 2006, 04:35 PM: Message edited by: HemiAdda2d ]
