I'm starting an around the wall layout-the first streach is 47' long. Although i don't have DCC yet, i will by the time i start operation, so i want to start it off right. I have the heavy gauge wire recommended for DCC and know not to isolate every siding with insulated rail joiners. I have two seperate levels that will be connected by a long climb, and the mainline is double tracked. Any tips, tricks and practices to avoid would be greatly appreciated. You guys have been hekpful in making DCC understandable, now i'm ready to start the wiring-RIGHT the first time. Thanks, Curt
I would just run the feeders every 10-15 feet or so and gap the rails wherever a short will occour. Some people recomend wireing every section of rail, but IMO this is overkill. If the railroad will be fairly large it will be a good idea to have 2 or 3 large sections ( blocks) for trouble shooting ......Mike
Let me address only one issue: turnouts. Unless you are using actually, positively, completely compatable, really DCC 'friendly' turnouts, you must wire around them. That means isolating the tracks comming out from the frogs. A saying I use is 'don't feed the frogs' If a frog is fed from an incomming track you will get a short. [more on that later]. Next make a circuit buzzer, that's a radio shack buzzer powered by a 9V battery with one leg of the buzzer attached to the track and the other in series with the battery to the other track. When you're starting your wiring, with nothing else[controllers, etc.] connected if the buzzer goes off you've got a short. DO THIS FOR ALL WIRING FIRST!!!! it will save you lots of headaches later. [back to turnouts] To isolate the frogs cut a gap some distance[ whatever you are comfortable soldering] from the frog and drop a wire under the table. Put in your switch machine and use one of the SPDT terminals to power the frog. Put the wire you dropped from the frog to the center pole and the + and - from the bus wire to the other poles and that way your frog will always be the correct polarity. If this is too confusing [I'm not Watash] e-mail me and I'll try and explain it better. LOL
If you haven't done so yet, I would recommend you checkout the website http://www.wiringfordcc.com I think you will find an answer to any wiring question you have for DCC.
Thanks for the suggestions-that web site is got a lot of great info, but i still like to hear from individuals that have "been there" as well. Reading Chris's suggestions sounds like hearing from someone who has learned the hard way and had many nightmares about it as well-so much hostility towards those little bitty frogs, Chris!Do they keep you awake at night chirping too? What if most of my turnouts are going to be Caboose Industries ground throws? I only plan on using remote switching machines on mainlines-Peco, for the records-turnouts are 60% Peco wide turnouts and 40% Atlas #6s, maybe a few Atlas #4s in some areas with just ore car traffic. Thanks, Curt
I wired my layout for single cab control orrigionaly, and just added the DCC system later. I use mainley Atlas custom # 6 turnouts, with a few Shinohara curved ones thrown in. So far I havent had any troubles with either brands frog, and I havent done any special wireing for them. Chris does bring up a good point here about the frogs ( croak, croak ) though. Some turnouts arent really DCC friendly....Mike
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR> What if most of my turnouts are going to be Caboose Industries ground throws? I only plan on using remote switching machines on mainlines-Peco, for the records-turnouts are 60% Peco wide turnouts and 40% Atlas #6s, maybe a few Atlas #4s in some areas with just ore car traffic. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> #1. sorry for the long delay in replying... bought MS train sim... been busy learning how to drive a loco... #2 Ground throws. It doesn't matter what kind of mechanical or electrical means you use to change the position of the turnout, you must include a SPDT switch so you can keep the poliarity constant. #3 Yes, I can still hear those d*** frogs croaking. #4 So far I have wired around 43 turnouts, and I have 57 to go, unless they are on a stub siding, but I think I will do those as well for the reason I will state in number 5 and in CAPS: do it or wreap the consequences. #5 DO NOT LET THE POINT OF YOUR TURNOUT CARRY ALL THE CURRENT NEEDED TO POWER THE FOLLOWING RAIL. IT IS A VERY THIN PIECE OF METAL AND IF YOU HAVE A SHORT AT THAT POINT... HAVE YOU EVER SEEN A GOOD ELECTRIC WELD!!!, DO YOU GET THE PICTURE. Seriously, you could apply 3 to 5 amps at 12 volts which is welding territory, if you can replace turnouts in 45 seconds, ala the Daytona 500, you could still keep operating... Am I making any sense? I appologize for being pendantic, but I have been there, BTW if you don't weld the rail you will cut a chunk out of the point to make it just as useless. Let me repeat the mention of the buzzer, it really is invaluable. I'll end here, but I'll start another reply so you can absorb what I've said.
rmathos, The main reason I am the moderator of this board is not that I am a genius, it is because I have made so many mistakes. My one saving grace is that usually I learn from them. You did not ask this question, but I'll bring it up anyway, because I have to replace 60 real feet of subroadbed. #1 Is the layout in a climate controlled room, ie. humidity constant? #2 If the answer to #1 is a no, and if you're not sure take a 5/8" by 36" section of plywood and nail a metal ruler lengthwise to it. Now watch it over the next year. Does the ruler bow in the winter when the humidity gets low??? If so that's whats going to happen to you carefully laid track. #2What are you using for your subroadbed, hopefully 8 to 10 inch pieces of 5/8 plywood joined with bisquits, on 90deg. grain. That will solve most of your problems, otherwise get a humidifier and a dehumidifier, go to Radio Shack, they sell cheap recording humidity instruments. get an idea what kind of humidity changes your RR room has, you'll be very surprised! WOOD MOVES whether it's a custom made in 1870 dining room table, your hardwood floor or the door to the bathroom. Beware!
