N scale "What's on your workbench?"

Okay, weird question here. Could a DC controller like the following be used to make a handheld, wired controller, using an existing power pack?
https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Cont...f8-ad2d-6ac65db8081a&pd_rd_i=B071H2YQG5&psc=1

 

By power pack, if you mean wall wart dc power supply, or similar, then yes.

But if you meant an existing dc train controller, they may have too much AC in their DC output to work well with this, without additional low pass filtering..

 

That's exactly what I meant, thank you!

 

Okay, so would a wall wart adapter work with something like that? And if so, what amps would I need?

 

why yes it can. These do not have reverse due to me not wanting kids to destroy any more Thomas locomotives, but these work quite well.

 

I have powered the one above with s Digitrax PS14 which is 14v 300ma (.3 amps) and it ran a locomotive just fine. I didn’t try 2 with the PS14 but so long as the current doesn’t exceed the 300ma it would work. I did though use a 12v 2a power supply and it had no issues at all powering 2 locomotives at the same time.

 

Finally, I think I have the elusive Metrolink paint mix. The left-most and right-most swatches are both well within the error bars set by Athearn's own variable version of the color (note that the car is significantly more purple-ish than the locomotive, and I'm not even convinced the stripe and tank skirt on the locomotive are the same!)

 

A little weathering can help blend/mask/distract from the almost imperceptible difference.


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I'm sure the prototype paint has variations too. And once painted the prototype stock has weather exposure variations that will cause different rate of fading.

 

So would a unit like this work? I mean, just clip the plug off it and use the wires for the input, then another pair to the output for the tracks?
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Supply...id=1712933656&sprefix=12v+2a+,aps,157&sr=8-11

 

Just acquired a Kato SD40-2 and an old Atlas GP30. Will be putting ESU sound in them. Pics will be posted later.

 

Now that I have a suitable Metrolink blue (Or is it purple? Periwinkle?) I can start correcting this atrocity.

Side note: this newer version of this shell has finer details and better handrails than the first release, but the price to pay is that everything is now glued together. Not as badly as some shells I've seen, but my preferred amount of glue is still zero.

 

Found these in a box of old electronic stuff, would either of these work?

 

It depends. Would it work? Probably... at least in the short term. But since the lower of the two (I can't read the specs in the upper one) provides 1.2 Amps rather than the 300 mA mentioned, depending on the design internally, there'a a chance that something delicate would fry at some point , or that too much current would flow in the event of a short (which could fry a locomotive).

Or, it might be fine. Without knowing more about how the controller is designed, I wouldn't want to guess what the odds are.

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Thank you!

 

I think either would work. The Netgear puts out 12 volts at 1 amp which is fine. I think you would need a fast 1 amp circuit breaker and you’d be golden.

 

Yup, pretty much! Been running my kiddie layout all day with the throttle I showed you powered by a 12v power supply.

 

Yes!

 

Given that the device you are considering to power the track is limited to 3 amps, and I do not know if it has any overcurrent protection itself, I would not recommend over 3 amps capacity from the wall wart, to protect the dc controller, if for no other reason.

So, pick a wall wart with the maximum voltage you want (I would say 12V for N scale, perhaps more for HO) and no more than 3 amps max current.

 

You guys are great! Thank you all!