N scale "What's on your workbench?"

Mark Watson Oct 28, 2009

  1. sidney

    sidney TrainBoard Member

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    my new portable DCC++EX station and a new test track 32 x 46 for testing an speed matching locos ect. working on another DCC++EX with PI4 and a screen for programming locos ect. (trying to get that into a pretty compact set box of some sort )
     

    Attached Files:

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  2. freddy_fo

    freddy_fo TrainBoard Member

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    Been wanting to get an electronic arrival/departure board made up for my layout so I finally pulled the lever on ~$16 worth of electronics to see if I could get a workable result. The OLED for the actual display is a .9" 128x32 size, A little on the big side but I can make it work by fabbing up a marquee enclosure out of styrene. The top lines I've got set to constantly scroll. The clock at the moment is more of a psuedo display until I get a real time clock to plug into the arduino board which with a battery and like a regular computer will keep time when not powered. The goal is to install an RFID with tags in certain locos that when read will change the status to "boarding" or if not read when time elapses beyond the expected time to read "late". Once the boarding is triggered and the loco leaves the station the old line will be replaced with an updated schedule.

    Kind of a fun little project.

    20221024_085820.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2022
  3. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    :D Pastor John liking the "14:29 Road to hell" train.....LOL!!!! Just kidding guys!!!! :LOL::ROFLMAO::D:):love:
     
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  4. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    Resistance Soldering Station:

    After debating if I need it or not for a couple years I got a resistance soldering station (in 3 different pieces). American Beauty seems to be by far the preferred choice. Problem is a new station with the power supply, tweezers and foot switch go for about $450 and up. More than what I wanted to spend. Recently on another board a member said that if you keep an eye out on the bay you can do better. I started watching and found a power supply only (they sell for over $300) for $49 and the seller said it came on but couldn't test it. I offered $39 (bad on me) and was turned down so finally decided to take a chance on it and bought it.

    It arrived yesterday along with the other parts I needed. I'd considered making the tweezers and would of a couple years ago but decided against that and glad that I did. So after looking for used ones with no luck I found a new one for $138. Last up you need a foot switch to turn it on/off. American Beauty ones are expensive, in the $70 range. I found one on Amazon for $10 that does exactly the same thing. Also ordered a second to use with my Dremel type tool with a flex shaft that I use for milling on my decoder installs after seeing one used for that.

    [​IMG]

    The power supply, tweezers and foot switch were all ordered from different places but all showed up yesterday. Normally I'd probably set them aside for later but wanted to try them out as I did have the option to return the power supply. With ME code 55 track hard to get a year ago I ordered some code 70 figuring I could use it in the hidden staging and other areas where it wouldn't really be in view (I had enough code 55 for my immediate plans).

    I have over 40 turnouts that I've made to this point but needed at least 12 code 70 turnouts to use with the code 70 track and need to make some crossings and more turnouts for the layout so felt spending $200 was worth it as that many turnout if bought commercially would cost far more than that and I really like how well the handlaid turnout perform and look.

    I figured the best way to try it out was to make a turnout. I hadn't made one in over a year so was a bit slow at first but then things started to click. I have a #6 Fast Tracks jig for code 55 but will have to use paper templates for the code 70 and the crossings and other location specific turnouts. The power supply seems to be working fine. Doesn't look like they have made big changes with them over the year but that might be wrong. The tweezers seemed a little awkward or at least different than using an iron at first but once I'd used it for a few soldering joints I started to love it over the iron. I'm glad I bought them instead of making them as they are really easy to use, probably better than what I would of made and I would of still had some cost in making them.

    [​IMG]

    I still used my iron for a few things, such as moving the rails slightly if needed but did over 90% of the soldering with the resistance soldering station. I'm glad I got it and can see where it will improve the looks of the solder joints and speed up building the turnouts.

    Here is a quick video that helped to sell me on this....



    Sumner
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2022
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  5. Daves_Trains

    Daves_Trains TrainBoard Member

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    I recently purchased my first Showcase Miniatures kit and have finally put it on the workbench. Here it is with the main structure painted and decals applied. Next is awnings, windows and detail parts then to build the module for it.

    20221013_172653.jpg 20221016_120416.jpg
     
  6. Daves_Trains

    Daves_Trains TrainBoard Member

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    Forgot to mention that I found some new textured paints at my local craft store. Available in several colors I think it does a good job for depicting stucco or plaster. Drawback is that it made it difficult to position decals on the surface.

    20221016_172716.jpg
     
  7. Shortround

    Shortround TrainBoard Member

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    Interesting!
     
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  8. MetraMan01

    MetraMan01 TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for sharing! That looks great and that’s great info too!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  9. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Wow that's really cool. I want this one so I can get Gas there :) Those kits look really nice?

    2022-11-08_20-37-23.png
     
  10. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    "Two Guns"...right up the road on the way to Flagstaff ! Not much there now but I remember walking around the ruins years back. (y)

    "Twin Arrows" is just up the road on I-40. I remember eating at the diner there way back in the late 80's and early 90's when I drove truck across I-40 ! They had some awesome burgers !!

    **NOTE TO SELF : Idea for THERR... ;)
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2022
  11. nscalestation

    nscalestation TrainBoard Supporter

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    It was a rainy, damp day today so I put the train room heater next to the work bench and pulled out a Monroe Models scrap yard casting that someone had given me years ago. I am starting a junk yard on my current layout and this would make a great addition to it. It was also a chance to go through some of my old paints. The casting was already painted in a rust color. I am not too worried about good coverage as I want a little of that to show through.

    I started by painting the 8 or 9 cars in various colors.

    TBWOMW08Nov22c.jpg

    Next I painted all the tires using Mission Models tire black.

    TBWOMW08Nov22b.jpg

    Then the scraps of corrugated sheet metal where painted with Floquil old silver.

    TBWOMW08Nov22a.jpg
    Did find a couple of old bottles of paint too dried up to use and disposed of those. Still going to color in some more of the items before giving the whole thing a weather wash.
     
  12. MK

    MK TrainBoard Member

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    Maybe try some Micro-Sol to get the decals to conform?
     
  13. DeaconKC

    DeaconKC TrainBoard Member

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    Disassembled the Tomix Engine House, actually had to go up inside the shed with a Dremel cutter to slice the center support so I could get a screwdriver inside to fit to remove the roof! That's alright, since it doesn't look quite right for the era I'm doing. Got it all apart and primed today. The roof will end up as a Galvanized Steel and the sides the Dark Red with concrete base. If the back will allow, I will start on the elevated terrain in the back half of the layout, if not, it will get it tomorrow.
    And primered a couple of tank cars too.
     
  14. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

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    My new TomyTec passenger train along with the power chassis for it and some parts for a slight modification.


    I have a whole batch of parts to figure out where they go for both the body and the power chassis so a few days worth of work/pleasure. Plus I have more parts coming to Americanize this model.
     
  15. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

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    Well put the new mechanism on the layout and ran it up the 2% grade from the harbor and ran without a hitch. Have the body parts sepearted from the non powered chassis and ready to mount on the powered chassis. I also removed the seating from the last two cars and moved it over to the power chassis. The TomyTec chassis can take the 6 and 7 inch radius of the Kato Unitrack no problem. Have removed the roof from the power car in preparation to install a radiator and diesel exhaust, silver objects on the middle right side, which are also TomyTec parts.


    May try to installed Z scale couplers. My first impression is these are superior to the Kato MyTrams. A less complicated mechanism and more to scale.

     
  16. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

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    Well this morning I am tackling putting the truck side frames on. Press fit with no glue. To the right are my Atlas GP airhorns that go on each cab end. Picked up several sets of them on Ebay and I have still coming some exhaust stacks. In back is my modification to the power car with a set of radiator vent fans changing this from a electric to a diesel. The parts for that are Tomix PC6056. A short Atlas non turbo exhaust is going on top of that also ordered from Ebay.


    A close up of the power car. All wheel electrical pick-up with a flywheel and a mini can motor. It also has a single traction tire on each axle of one truck. This has the potential to be converted to DCC using the smallest chip possible unlike the Kato MyTram. The roof of the power car is an insert that snaps out and where the radiator fans are is where to open it up by cutting a space. The radiator piece consists of two pieces, an open in the middle base and then the fan assembly. Using the thinnest and smallest chip possible should tuck under that. Lights need to be very tiny to fit in the spaces at each cab end. And I would use the thinnest most flexible wire possible for this. Very little space down low in the cabs for this. The power chassis has a set of weights located in the center of the car opposite the motor. I plan to add just a small dab of tungsten putty to the remaining sections.


    The total length of the body is about 86 N scale feet long but because of the articulated sections able to navigate very tight radius of 6 to 8 inches.
     
  17. DeaconKC

    DeaconKC TrainBoard Member

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    I can't wait to see how that looks when done.
     
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  18. DeaconKC

    DeaconKC TrainBoard Member

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    I got some Microsol on the decals from last night for the G&D cars. If I get really, really enthused, I might work on the layout a bit. But as the porch is 40 degrees, that is an outside bet...
     
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  19. Burlington Northern Fan

    Burlington Northern Fan TrainBoard Supporter

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    [​IMG]
    Some Baldylox Designs 3D printed shells , going into BN SD-40-2B units
    Model Flex Paint White for primer coat, then BN Green in light coats

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  20. John Moore

    John Moore TrainBoard Supporter

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    Well after stopping for some house repairs I am back at the new passenger train. New truck side frames are now on, bodies lightly weighted, and the body shells are back on. Now ready to mount the topside details. The model is now posed on a section of 7 inch radius track and looks good on it. Now that the power chassis and trucks are installed again posed with the MyTram. This model is marketed as being 1/150 scale but next to the MyTram and other cars the MyTram is out of scale in my opinion.

    Now giving thought to what I can make out of the dummy articulated frame.

     

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