Should be fine, and yes, coating after printing is definitely in order. You should also pay close attention to the dryness of the ink before you spray- some inks take several minutes to dry on decal papers because its not a porous surface. Looking forward to the results!
Having managed to get about 95% of the train room inventoried so Moose no lose things in the abyss or buy duplicates because Moose forgot Moose already had an item, and so on... Moose returned to building a logging water tower and the -- Top Secret -- project.
OK so I’m about to start my first kit build and would like some feedback on my approach - I’m thinking of painting or weathering everything on the part sprews - And spray the window sills light blue to compliment the Lowenbrau colors. I’m not sure if I should lay down a coat of gray paint on the gravel and then wash with a black wash for the crevices. I was thinking of a brown wash on the yellow brick. The graphics they included are non sticky/not decals. Weird. Your thoughts and advice welcome!
Thought I'd add a little kitbash detail to the story of the Previous photo of M&E 19 posted on the previous page, As with most of my Life-Like C-424's it now has an Atlas C-628 Cab and Short hood and most of the log hood. Where possible I replace the Life-Like shell with Atlas parts, I even replace the dynamic brake hatch with one from the Atlas C-420 and the radiator is a modified C-628/630 part. The mob below was the result of our first NZ COVID lockdown. Now I'm slowly painting the ones still in undercoat. The next stage after the undercoat is a black wash that I use for pre-shading, it really helps to bring out the details on the shells. Have a great weekend. Cheers Steve
Thanks Freddy. The MU hoses are just 0.012" brass wire cut to length. I drill a hole, insert the wire, bend to the bottom of the pilot and cut on an angle. I then use CA to attach from behind, and add a very small touch of PVA on the end to represent the knuckle. Once the pilot area has been painted the knuckle gets painted a silver/grey colour. It's a simple job and quite affective. Steve
Just as a note of interest, your kit is the same one first sold in the USA as Atlas' "Factory" kit starting in the late nineteen sixties. Doug
I like to inspect my coverage with a small LED flashlight. I noticed when I didn’t check close enough you see missed areas esp on small parts.
I like that color combo, too - made this little guy 20 some years ago (hence the crummy digital camera quality)... Not sure where it's at these days. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Cheers -Mike Edit: Oh, and to stay on topic. Here's what's currently on my workbench...way. too. much. And not even all of it...
N scale buildings need muted colours. Washes highlight detail, and dull down to a degree , but light grey overspray fades colours well.
Super nice! I’ll pick some sort of LB freight car up. https://www.ebay.com/itm/N-Scale-MI...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0