You may want to check if these sides are available in two versions. As an overlay to go over the existing side after sanding off details or as the version to go with a core kit or completely removing sides. For whatever reason mine for the full dome are for a core kit thus just a tad shorter and a core kit won't work for a full dome unless you do some extremely fine and careful cutting to remove the dome section and roof from the Bmann car. Fortunately .010 styrene strip fills in fine.
Made some more major progress on the BN Theatre car when I finally figured out how to do the rear observation window that I had mulled over for the last few days. Carefully drilling out around the rear of the car and then connecting the dots with a single edge razor blade I removed the bulk of the material. A sanding stick and a diamond file finished up. Then I went into some of my building parts boxes for a large window. Ended up with a large 6 over 6 window that when turned on its' side fit perfectly. And trust me when I say I couldn't do this again if I tried since I cut the opening before the window idea hit the brain cells. This was one of the more delicate procedures since the sides are very thin from sanding and the ends are one of the major supports. I reinstalled the under frame prior to doing this cutting for more support. The upper curved windows above this will be when the real fun starts.
John, somehow missed the fact you were working on a theater inspection car. I'm almost done, but have a few more details to clean up and add to this one. I'm still struggling with how to complete the lights on the rear of the car. Still work to be done on this one. Sides were custom cut in styrene by Union Station from the new owners design. The core is a former Amtrak Superliner made by Con-Cor. Brian
Brian, you know I love your work but I have seen this car a couple times and it has been silver when I have seen it. Did they re-paint it lately? PS sorry this is NOT my photo. Mike
Good question. I asked the gentlemen I'm doing this for and he said it was a medium grayish color so away I went. Even from the photo, it's hard to tell what color it is... I sent the photos to the client and he was happy with it, so don't say anything... Brian
Solved the upper windows problem using a piece cut from an old dome seating insert that was in front of the seats and had the right angles with a little filing here and there. Heavy clear plastic that just needs to be cleaned up. I will either glaze the middle window with Micro Kristal Klear or cut a small piece of clear plastic to fit from inside. Roll up door housing is made from styrene rod sanded flat on one side. I used .080. Seating comes next and I may go back to that standard dome seating insert and start there since I need dual seats on each side. Still have to add the side corrugations and end trim. End windows need cleaning up and probably a coat of Future acrylic wax. Area will call for some delicate fine point brush painting around those windows.
Wow I love oddball stuff like this. Nice attention to detail Here's an HLCX leaser I've been working on: based off of http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=3043220 Still need to chop the horn off, finish the renumber and weather a bit. Also may attempt moving the top headlights forward to the nose but I'm a little scared to chop the Kato unit haha. Any recommendations for taking the lettering off without removing the paint? There was some product called somethingcoat II (forget the something) can't seem to locate it but I know it works well taking a layer off at a time.
well, there's some free space, and a new locomotive that needs to be dipped and stripped to become a GBW alco.
I could have left well enough alone and just modeled the car with the rear window door in the down position. But the idea of the glass showing if the door is in the up position and nothing behind it just didn't feel right. So the seating is being installed with a mind to using the existing window glazing. Seats are clear plastic and a little hard to see right now. The old Concor dome insert is being used again for the seats that have been cut out and filed to shape along with styrene to create the staircase seating.
On my workbench: I bought some 1015-1 short shank couplers to convert a couple Kato Dash-9s (newer vintage). The 1015 coupler box fits through the opening in the shell, but the pin/clip is not even close to locking the coupler into place. Any thoughts? I was read that the 1015 was the right coupler, but maybe not? And I'm also wiring my control panel on a piece of styrene as a template. Then I'll transfer it to plexiglas.
I have had a few locos that the clip would not secure the 1015. Most likely the clip is not deep enough to allow the side tabs to engage the loco pilot sides. The first option which is a P.I.T. A. is to turn the clip upside down and file off some plastic so that the tabs can engage by seating deeper over the 1015. Or be done with the clip and take a drill and tap for the 1015 mounting screw. The screw will have to be trimmed to keep it from sticking up above the pilot deck surface. Then a dab of paint covers the end of the screw where it shows. Or Use a shorter mounting screw like from a Z scale coupler.
Right now paint detailing a UP SD70M 4845 and a SD9043MAC 8242. These will be getting the Yellow stripe treatment plus some other details like MTL 905s and some weathering. Here are before photos.
