These are paid for designs on Cults but they turned out good. Includes driver figure as well. STL file N Scale Speeder and Wagons・3D print design to download・Cults (cults3d.com)
Bought one........mine looks avery bit as good as the "display model".........probably better than woodland scenics stuff. Worth every penny! p.s. you need to put hitches on both ends of at least one of the cars so you can put them all together.
Great idea! I did think of this but thought in real life a speeder could not pull the weight. Think I'll add this to the wagons anyway.
Actually, on the CNR back in the 1960's, both of my grandfathers and an uncle had speeders in little sheds near the maintenance buildings. They sat on short rails. The guys would horse it onto the track. I rode on one of the speeders when I was about 9 or 10. It did have space for 4 guys and a small flat trailer behind.
A lot would depend on what the workers tried to load on the wagons.......I'm sure there was a weight limit
I remember at the Ohio Railway Museum we could pull a cart full of ties and a commercial compressor on another cart with ours . I think ours was powered by some kind of Ford 4 cylinder motor . Mike
Super details. In N scale, it's easy to fudge the details for a "good enough" result, but these look like a prototype. I have no idea if this is a Fairmont model or what.
They look like a M-series Fairmont. The square protrusion on the front is a "water hopper", part of the cooling system for the two-cycle engine which drives one of the wheel sets with a belt. The "clutch" is a third belt wheel that is just loosened to disengage the belt. The engine will run in either direction, depending on what side of top-dead-center the spark plug is fired. Curious little beasts...
Well, talked to my son about printing (he has several filament printers, getting a resin unit). He said the best bang for the buck is one of the AnyCubic units and a parts washer. My students used several different resin printers at University, but they were the early units and produced unstable products. This has been remedied over the past 7 or 8 years. So... time to dive in!
I put off using the resin printer I bought a couple years ago because of the thought of dealing with the resin. I bought a wash and cure station for $130 then but still though the washing and curing was going to be something I wouldn't like messing with. Wrong assumption on my part. With gloves on I just have to scrap the print off the build plate into the basket that goes into the wash and cure station. A couple minutes later the part is washed. I blow the denatured alcohol off and put the prints back in the station in 'cure' mode and a couple more minutes and I'm done with part and it is ready for use or paint or whatever. Haven't had a resin 'accident' yet but the wash and cure has now made this a great buy. This doesn't mean my filament printer is going away as it is still my go-to printer and I feel it is more versatile in what it can do. They are both cheap enough now that owning both can be a viable purchase. I've printed items for the layout at this point that would of cost way more than the two printers and most you can't even buy. Sumner
Much happier this time around... the machine worked correctly. Photo shows the Anycubic exposures test structures right out of the machine, on the build plate. You can see the effects of the different exposure times. The build plate worked perfectly, although I think it will need replacing now and then. I think their included scraper could use the edges rounded and a bit more taper- I will do this to the tool. The washing/curing box has not yet arrived, so I cleaned by hand, and cooked in the sun (Arizona...)- not shown here. Now to move to containers and a speeder with wagons.
