N scale handrails

For those of you who make your own handrails in N scale, I would like to ask what type of wire you use and what thickness.

I want to make some handrails for my Milwaukee Road passenger cars that I am building up from brass sides.

Thanks,
Adam

 

My humorous side of me (what I think is funny), wants to answer "16 gauge wire". But, we both know better. I would think you'd want something in the 24, 26 and/or smaller.

Perhaps we can shake down some of our nuts and bolt counters to help us out.

 

What is the diameter of a prototype handrail? Let's say 0.75 inches, approximately. So .006 inch wire times 160 is 0.96 inches. I have used .006 wire and it was so very fine that I went to .010 inch wire. That is .010 wire times 160 equals 1.6 inch diameter handrail. Too big but it is more durable and more visible; I prefer the larger size.

I make mine using Detail Associates brass wire and Gold Medal Model stanchions...when I used to make them. I no longer do that as long as there is a commercial handrail alternative.

.006 brass wire handrail (B30-7):


.010 brass wire handrail (SD38-2):


Stock Kato SD40-2 handrail on the left with .010 wire grabs; .010 handrail on the right on the SD38-2.


.006 handrail on an original Atlas GP40 shell:


Hope this helps. It depends on what you want.

 

Flash,

I like what you did with your handrails. They look authentic and close enough for these eyes.

I like the Gold Medal Model stanchion's you used.

 

That wire you used for the handrails looks about the right size for the handrails and grab bars for the passenger cars I am building.

Thanks!

 

Hello Flash,

The diameter of prototype handrails is 1.5". The.010" material is just fine. Alternately, .008" is just a tad finer, representing 1.28" diameter. Add a coat of paint to it and there you go!

Donnell

PS - Use the .006" material for your grabirons for visual contrast.

 

Those are Aweasome Flash!!
I was always happy with Atlas and Kato handrails till you did this!
Dang it...

 

I think the newer Atlas - InterMountain - Athearn - LL Proto - and maybe Kato handrails are finer than those on the original run Kato SD40-2. Handrails today are much better than they used to be. I suppose some modelers routinely replace the handrails but that is too much for me. I am going nuts adding air hoses to my old engines and those are simple (BLMA) compared to changing out all the handrails.

 

I use .010 wire for rails, and typically .015 for stanchions. I still prefer to use wire; easier to keep everything straight, assemble on the body, and solder everything up. Because I 'primarily' model ATSF, the verticals are always blue and the rails are usually yellow.

I've tried .008, too fine. I like Detail Associates; I'll use KS metals if I can't find it. The Walthers stuff that comes in a loop is pretty useless.

One of the big advantages is that the wire takes a real beating and just rebends, and it also holds paint really really well. I've been doing this since the 70's when I was demonstrated the technique by Tom Hoover.





I do the brass handrails as a custom service, works just fine AFTER painting.

 

Here, here. Something else to add to the list of to do's for the more proto look.

 

I went to my LHS yesterday and picked up one size of wire and then ordered some .006 and .008. It should be in in about a week.

Those handrails you guys are making with the stanchions on your diesels are amazing!

 

FWIW, I like to use .008 Phosphor bronze wire from Tichy Train Group.

 

Bill,

This looks great! Is that one of your shells?

Adam

 

Yes, it is. Just finished building the master for a RPO car, I hope to cast it up later this week.

 

Hey Adam, when you get a few under your belt, I'll send you all my IM tunnel motors so you can redo the crappy handrails on them.

Mike

 

Thanks!

SD74, THANKS for starting this thread! And thanks also to the posters. Great info right here I need now, even a few years later. Ric

 

Things have changed a bit in a couple years. I'm putting a set on my Intermountain SD45-2 right now. Not because they are replacing oversize ones, but because that they are so $%##! fragile that I broke them in just handling the locomotive. I won't have that problem with brass wire, and they will hold paint.

 

On Bill's suggestion I just bought $80.00 worth of Tichy phosphor bronze .010 wire. Now I gotta figure out how to bend 3200 grab irons without being committed.

Randy

 

Randy, did you say 3200? Agggh!

If they're all roughly the same, I would recommend, strongly, building a simple jig. Get everything all set up, and then grab a cold beverage of your choice, pop in a movie, and get to work.

 

I'm doing the exact same cars you are , the thing is , there are well over 200 cars !! I figure 16 grabs per car.

Getting started in N scale? Don't do what I did , spend money on trains till the wife left. (unless you have a dual agenda like I did)

Randy