Hi Everyone, Jan 21st,01. 18:40 Hrs MST. Is there Anyone on the Board Who is Experienced in Painting N Scale Bldg Kits? I have 11 D.P.M. Kits plus a Few Others I want to Paint buI don't have the Skills to do it. IAnyone Does, Please Email me of list at - trainorders@hotmailcom. I'd like to Heafrom Your end. Perhaps We can Work Something out. Special Thanks Everyone. Andrew, Calgary. trainorders@hotmail.com
I would rate myself ona scale from a 1-10 an 7 or 8. this includes weathering too. I don't have special equipment, I do it outside, which could be a big problem this season. ------------------ TrainBoard.com MEMBER#204 N.A.R.A. Member #8 THE WEB PAGE IS NOW UPDATED!! Appalachian & Atlantic Model Railroad "QUALITY at WORK with SAFTEY in MIND"
The best thing to do is to give it a try yourself. Assemble the four walls, then give it a coat of boxcar red (which is a good brick brown color). Then taking your time, paint the window frames a contrasting color. It really looks great. I use Krylon or a generic in the brown primer color. Then Polly Scale or other acrylic paint for the windows. Give it a try, you never know until you attempt it, you might learn to be good at it. Jeff Augsburg & Concord R.R. (a fictional shortline in Central Illinois) http://acrr.rrdepot.com
You may want to go down to Home Depot and get your self some of those foam paint brushes. Just dip these in the paint and you can have a really nice even coat on a wall in seconds. Then as stated above, paint the window sills a contrasting color. Good luck Andrew! ------------------ Craig Martyn Best Looking Models Around Custom detailing AND N scale detail parts. BLMA N Scale Detail Parts BLMAinfo@aol.com
I'd reccommend getting several cans of Testor's military spray paints. They have a decent spray tip, and a variety of flat colors. Take a look at any street of brick buildings and you'll find a surprising variety of colors. They're not all the same red or tan. After the paint has cured for at least a day, mix up a very thin batch of Durham's water putty. Paint one of the walls with the stuff, and quickly wipe off the surface, leaving the Durham's as grout on the bricks. If you don't like how things look, wash it off and try again since Durham's is water soluable. You can add a drop or two of acrylic paint to the Durham's to color the grout. Once everything looks good, let it dry and then give it a blast of DullCoat before you weather it. If you're going to decal the building, spray it with gloss before you decal, MicroSol the heck out of the decal, and then spray it with DullCoat. ------------------ Ed Harrison Ed's Mental Cab Ride
We all had to learn sometime or other Andy. Like wt&c says, do it outside if you spray, not on the dinner table. True light is better than electric light for colors. Revnjeff is right, try it, take your time. Try it on a small box, a piece of broken plaster board, or simply turn one wall of your building, up side down. Then if you make a mistake, who cares? You learn, a little paint goes a long way. It is better to spray several light coats, than one thick one. Same with a brush. For window and door frames, cut one of the small foam brushes with sissors so the tip is only 1/8" wide, or get a set of water color brushes children use. I have used Q-Tips, and even glued bits of foam to tooth picks for tiny places. Follow Craig's advice, back in my day, all railroad buildings were painted yellow, with chocolate brown trim, but whatever colors, it makes the building stand out to use a contrasting color. For mortar, 10-87 is right, it works well, and is easily repairable. Before you start, look at various buildings, notice ones in the background in TV shows, and compare then with your building. One will appeal to you. Then you have something to go on. Decals are lots easier than trying to paint a sign in HO, and might near impossible in N. You will be surprised at how much it will lift your self confidence after you finish your first building. The second will be better than that, because you see something you will decide to improve on. Just remember, it looks a lot better from where someone else will see it than really up close where you are seeing it! When you finish the first one, post a photo for us. No one is going to make fun of you, and if we can assist with advice, just ask and we will all try to help. None of us are geniuses. (Well, maybe one or two, but I have my doubts about them!) ------------------ Watash #982 "See you in the Pit" [This message has been edited by watash (edited 23 January 2001).]
Andrew: You will miss a lot of the fun of Model Railroading, if you get others to do the buildings for you, so please give it a try yourself, it isn't all that hard to do. First take the parts a give them a good washing with dish detergent,and let them dry. Then find a brick colour you like and paint the walls, using thin coats,whether you are spraying, or using a brush( speaking of brushes buy the very best you can, cheap brushes, don't do a good job, and they don't hold up well). After your base cote has dried completely, give the wall a wash of darker colour that has been thined down to the consistancy of ink(if you are using acrylics(which I recomend highly) add a few drops of matte medium to hold the paint together,and a drop or two of dish detergent or flow medium to this wash to help it flow into the resses between bricks. After this wash has dried,dry brush the bricks with a lighter colour to highlight them. Then all you have left is to paint the details to match prototype practise, or to suit your own taste. The techniques used on the bricks can also be used for the doors, windows, roofs, etc., just adjust the colours to suit.
