N scale 4x8

skipgear Jan 28, 2007

  1. mtaylor

    mtaylor Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Quick Question....
    For the road bridge....did you just use a regular train bridge and apply (I am guessing) plaster over the top of it? I also really like your rock outcropings.....awesome.
     
  2. skipgear

    skipgear TrainBoard Member

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    The road bridge is a couple of Atlas truss bridges sectioned and glued together. The deck is simply a piece of styrene painted gray glued to the top of what was the ties. For a quick fix, it turned out pretty good. I needed a road up to the future home of a logging camp and a bridge across the river was the only way to do it.

    The owner is going to finish the structures and scenery from here. I was originally just supposed to lay track, rough in the scenery and wire it. It was just too hard to do some of the sections without at least putting in the ground cover and ballast so I took it a bit farther.
     
  3. Mark Smith

    Mark Smith TrainBoard Member

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    The final result is very nice. I am sure the new owner is thrilled with what you've produced.
     
  4. BarryC

    BarryC TrainBoard Member

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    Imitation is the best form of flattery..Here is my attempt to copy this great layout..(with permissionof course !!) My first layout..:teeth:
     

    Attached Files:

  5. skipgear

    skipgear TrainBoard Member

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    Barry,
    Looks like a good start. You might want to let the curves "loosen" up a bit. The inner line heading up the mountain in the front of the shot looks like it tightens up a bit. It may just be the photo.

    An easy way to get generous curves is to take a piece of flex, tack it down on one end and bend the other slowly to where you need it. Tack it when you get it where you want and then trace it. After that lay the cork. Don't try to force the track to match the cork, make the cork match the natural flow of the track by test laying the track first.

    For marking out radius' I have an aluminum yard stick with holes drilled at each 1/2" mark from 9" on out plus one drilled at the 1/2" mark. I use that to scribe a radius. If the track radius needed isn't exactly within 1/2" radius, I will mark and inner and outer and just let the track flow in between.
     
  6. BarryC

    BarryC TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for the help...I will certanly do as you say with matching the cork to the flex instead of the other way around, it does look too tight !!!
     
  7. BarryC

    BarryC TrainBoard Member

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    Getting there..

    Getting ready to wire her up and test the layout..!!
     

    Attached Files:

  8. skipgear

    skipgear TrainBoard Member

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    Looking good.
     
  9. ppuinn

    ppuinn Staff Member

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    Tony:
    Great job on that control panel!:thumbs_up:

    How did you get the white lettering on your decals?
    Do you have one of those decal printers that are no longer being produced?...Or is there another decal system available now?
     
  10. skipgear

    skipgear TrainBoard Member

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    The White lettering and striping is all done with a vinyl cutter. I do custom paint and decals for RC cars with it primarily. I can't get much smaller than the lettering on the board without having the letter start to get a little distored by the lag of the cutting blade.

    The double pole switch covers are done with clear testors decal paper and my inkjet printer. The back side of the switch covers is raw shiny aluminum so the decals laid over them nicely.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. ppuinn

    ppuinn Staff Member

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    Thanks for the info about the decals.
     
  12. skipgear

    skipgear TrainBoard Member

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